Kichkinelkol from Talychat Pass, combined, 2B
Route Description
From the ice bivouacs, cross the Sredniy Kichkinelkol glacier plateau to reach the slopes of Talychat Pass, located to the left of Kichkinelkol peak. Ascend the snowy slope to the bergschrund. Cross via a bridge or the rock shelves of the island adjacent to the left edge of the bergschrund (rocks are heavily damaged, beware of falling stones!). Then, ascend the left side of the snowy couloir, with a steepness of up to 45°, to reach Talychat Pass (beware of stones!). In the second half of summer, fine and loose scree appears in the upper part of the couloir. Traverse close to the Talychat rocks or leftwards via shelves and individual rock outcrops («live» stones!). From the bivouac to the pass — 3–4 hours.
From the pass, move to the eastern side of the ridge, then traverse 40 m via shelves, followed by an ascent up two internal corners to the left of the large rock wall R1 to an inclined shelf between R3 and R4. From there, ascend short walls and blocks to reach the main ridge at R5.
Alternative ascent from the pass (if there's no snow):
- Ascend an internal corner past the ridge line to an inclined shelf.
- Then, climb a steep wall to reach the main ridge and proceed to R5 along it.
From R5, ascend the ridge and slightly below it, which is composed of inclined slabs, to reach the summit. From the pass — 3–4 hours.
Descent follows the «Kichkinelkol from Kichkinelkol Pass» route.
- Begin the ascent to Talychat Pass at 5:00–6:00 am.
(1) — view from the south
