CENTRAL ASIA ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 1983 ROCK CLIMBING CLASS 138

REPORT

on the first ascent to the summit 4200 m via the east-southeast wall, by the team from alplager "Varzob", completed in the period from % to July 2, 1983.

O. Eremin, R. Khairullin, A. Kholontsev

team captain — Alexander F. Khafizov team coach — Oleg V. Kapitanov

Ascent Passport

I. Rock class 2. Fann Mountains, Tagrich gorge 3. Peak 4200, via the southeast wall (Glushko route) 4. 5B category of difficulty, third ascent 5. Height difference: 670 m, length — 770 m Length of sections with 5B category of difficulty — 235 m 6 category of difficulty — 320 m Average steepness of the route — 78° Average steepness of the wall — 83°

I. Climbing category — technically complex. 2. Climbing area — Fan Mountains. 3. Peak — ALAUDIN, from Dhanat pass, 4142 m, via the northern ridge. 4. Estimated complexity category — 3A. 5: Route characteristics: a) elevation gain — 500 m. b) average steepness — 45°. c) length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 10 m. 6. Number of anchors installed: - rock anchors — 16 pieces - ice anchors — none

REPORT on the ascent to the summit "ALAUDIN" via the southern counterfort (4A cat. diff.)

2. Group Composition

1. Sandalov I.S. (leader) 1946, 2nd sports category, "Spartak", Kr-sk
2. Loginov B.M. 1949, 2nd sports category, "Spartak", Krasnoyarsk
3. Trofimov A.A. 1946, 2nd sports category, "Spartak", Krasnoyarsk
4. Burlakov Yu.P. 1947, 2nd sports category, "Spartak", Krasnoyarsk

3. Equipment

1. Main ropes 2 × 40 m, 1 × 60 m
2. Repschnur 1 × 10 m

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Alaudin via the southern counterfort ("Parasail") (I. Sandalov's route, 72) category 4A on July 25, 2019

I. Ascent Passport

on the left side, straight up to the rope to the end of the couloir, which ends with a chimney filled with ice. Climbing is extremely cautious, as there are many loose rocks. Above the couloir is a sheer wall, so we traverse to the right through the couloir's throat and exit to its right side. It is necessary to cross the couloir quickly due to the hanging crevice, from which pieces of ice break off and shoot through this couloir. In this section, the belay is piton (4 pitons), movement is along the fixed ropes. Section 56 From the couloir, we move to the rocks, which are steep but heavily dissected. Straight up, we climb one rope to a small ledge, where we can gather everyone. The time is already late, and we still haven't found a suitable platform for the tent. After

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Gissar Ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Mt. Aurondagh, 4573 m, via the Central North wall
4. Difficulty category: 5B, second ascent
5. Route characteristics: total elevation gain 978 m, average steepness 73°, technical sections 80°, route length 1197 m and sections by difficulty category (m) | Difficulty Category | Length (m) | | :------------------ | :--------- | | 1 | — |

I. Climbing category — technically challenging. 2. Climbing area — Fan Mountains. 3. Route — peak S. Bodhona (5300) via N. wall, 5B category of difficulty (Kudinov I.B. route, 1968) — 2nd ascent. 4. Climbing characteristics: route length — 3270 m, height difference — 2100 m, average steepness — 75°, length of complex sections — 520 m — VI category of difficulty. 5. Pitons used: rock (including chocks) — 292, ice — 4 6. Total climbing hours — 40 h 7. Number of nights — 4 (all comfortable) 8. Number of climbing days — 5

Passport

1. Class of ascent
2. Region of ascent, ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route
4. Proposed category of difficulty
5. Route characteristics: height difference average steepness
6. Pitons hammered for belay
7. Number of travel hours
8. Overnights