Ascent via the Eastern ridge from the Oktyabrsky glacier. Descent to the Profsoyuzov Pass. Cat. 4A

Day 1

Departure at 10:00 from the base camp, located at an altitude of 4200 m under the tongue of the Oktyabrsky glacier, on the right (orographic) side of the valley. The path leads along the right side of the Oktyabrsky glacier, first along the lateral moraine, then along the right bank of the Kok-Sai River. Shortly before the glacier, which flows from the Profsoyuzov Pass, one must ascend to the right lateral moraine and reach the glacier along it. The tongue of the glacier, descending from the Profsoyuzov Pass, must be crossed in a rope team with simultaneous belay. The same path is used to cross two more glaciers, which descend from the Zulumart ridge towards the Oktyabrsky glacier. The glaciers are covered with soggy snow and have many hidden crevasses. Under the eastern ridge of peak "6146" on the moraine is a suitable place for a bivouac.

USSR Alpine Union

South-West Pamir

Taversing the peaks:

• peak Akmú (5214 m)
• peak Garm-Chashma (4900 m)
• peak Shpil (5558 m)
• 5350
• (5492 m)
• peak Mayakovsky (6096 m) Team from Donetsk Regional Sports Committee

Route: via the North-Eastern slope Group of the Kharkov Regional Council of the "Avangard" Sports Society:

• 1. Eremenko Grigoriy Nikolayevich, 2nd category
• 2. Slobodyanik Lyudmila Ivanovna, 2nd category
• 3. Sidorenko Nikolay Nikolayevich, 2nd category The ascent was made between June 16 and 18, 1974. 1974, Kharkov ("Avangard")

Brief Geographical Description of the Ascent Area

The expedition of the Kharkov Regional Council of the "Avangard" Sports Society worked in the South-Western Pamir in the area of Peak Mayakovsky in the upper reaches of the Darshai River. The Darshai River flows into the Pyandzh River 40 km upstream from the town of Ishkashim (district center). At the confluence of the Darshai and Pyandzh rivers lies the kishlak Darshai, 10 km from the Shikhtavr settlement council. There is a store in Darshai where food can be purchased. Shikhtavr has a larger store, a settlement council, post office, collective farm administration, club, and school. The Darshai River originates in the area of Peak Mayakovsky, approximately 50 km from the Pyandzh River along the Darshai gorge. There are summer pastures (yailaks) in the gorge, each about a 2-hour walk apart. The highest yailak, "Tung", is located near the tongues of glaciers descending from the peaks of:

• Mayakovsky,

Ascent Certificate

I. Technical Grade 2. South-Western Pamir, Shakhdarin Range 3. V. Garm-Chashma (4900), via the spur of the southern ridge, combined route 4. Proposed — Category 3B complexity 5. Height difference — 700 m, length — 1350 m, length of sections with category 4 complexity — 160 m, average steepness of the wall part of the route — 55° 6. Pitons driven: rock 34/0, chocks 26/0, ice 1/0 7. Number of climbing hours — 10 8. No overnight stays

1. Group Composition

1. Yeremenko G. N. — 1st sports category, Kharkov (leader)
2. Slobodyanik L. I. — 2nd sports category, Kharkov
3. Grigorenko — Prigoda D. I. — Master of Sports, Kharkov

2. Object Characteristics

The Ishpro peak is located in one of the western spurs of the Shakhdarin ridge. The peak and the chosen route are visible when approaching the Andorob village (see Photo 1). It is clearly visible when ascending the slopes above the Garm-Chashma village. The peak is well-known to local residents as its glacial-snow cover supplies the irrigation canal system (aryks) around Garm-Chashma with water. All slopes on the left (orographic) bank of the Garm-Chashma River are crisscrossed by a network of aryks, which are convenient to use as trails when approaching Ishpro peak. Translated, Ishpro means "peak that blocks the wind." We named it "Compass Rose." Photo 1. View of Ishpro peak from Andorob village.

Map-Scheme

ASCENT REPORT

I. Technical Class. 2. South-West Pamir, Ishkashimsky ridge. 3. Peak Kiik-Bal-Khana, height 5100 m, combined route, via South ridge. 4. Proposed complexity category — 3B. pr. 560, p. 3 18/3–86 5. Height difference 500 m, average steepness 40°. 6. Rock pitons driven 10/0, chocks 4/0, no ice or bolt pitons. 7. Climbing hours — 8. 8. No overnight stays. 9. Leader: Ponomarev D.S., 1st sports category

4.6.9

Protocol No.380 dated 2.17.1972. Classified 5A. First ascent. South-West Pamir upper reaches of the Garms-Chashma river, peak 5100 m “Kiik-bal-khana”

Report

• on the first ascent of the South-West wall 5B cat. difficulty by the team of Kharkov regional council of the sports society “Avangard” June 14, 1973 Grushko Yu.I. Candidate Master of Sports

1. Class of traverses
2. South-West Pamir, Ishkashimsky Ridge
3. Traverse of p. Kiik-Bal-Khana (5100 m) – p. Bezymanaya (5170 m) with ascent to p. Kiik-Bal-Khana via the western ridge, combined ridge route.
4. Proposed - category 2B difficulty
5. Height difference — from the start of the route to p. Kiik-Bal-Khana — 550 m, from p. Bezymanaya to the end of the descent — 800 m, length of traverse between the peaks — 1100 m, length of sections with category 4 difficulty — 200 m.
6. Pitons hammered: Rock 20 — Chocks 40 —
7. Number of travel hours — 13.
8. Without overnight stays
9. Ascent made by a pair:

ASCENT DOCUMENT

I. ASCENT CATEGORY — technical. 2. ASCENT REGION — South-West Pamir. 3. ASCENT ROUTE — Peak 5100 m (STROITEL) via the Eastern ridge — Cat. 2B (approx.) pr413 dated 27/4-76.20saibog. 4. ASCENT DESCRIPTION: elevation gain — 1600 m, average slope — 45°, length of difficult sections — ~60 m 5. PITS INSERTED: rock — 7. ice — 6. MOVING TIME: 7 h. 7. NUMBER OF NIGHTS ON THE ROUTE: none.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — combined.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range, east of Chiper pass, from the side of Chiper-Azau glacier.
3. Peak 3858, via West Ridge, first ascent.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3A.
5. Height difference of the route 500 m (from Chiper pass).
6. Number of pitons used 5/0, including 2 ice pitons.
7. Number of climbing hours — 9.
8. No overnight stays on the route. Bivouac at "Sandy Hotel" 2700 m.