1. Class of traverses

2. South-West Pamir, Ishkashimsky Ridge

3. Traverse of p. Kiik-Bal-Khana (5100 m) – p. Bezymanaya (5170 m) with ascent to p. Kiik-Bal-Khana via the western ridge, combined ridge route.

4. Proposed - category 2B difficulty

5. Height difference — from the start of the route to p. Kiik-Bal-Khana — 550 m, from p. Bezymanaya to the end of the descent — 800 m, length of traverse between the peaks — 1100 m, length of sections with category 4 difficulty — 200 m.

6. Pitons hammered:

Rock 20 — Chocks 40 —

7. Number of travel hours — 13.
8. Without overnight stays
9. Ascent made by a pair:

• Demidenko Oleg Georgievich — II sports category
• Ponomarev Dmitry Ivanovich — II sports category

10. Coach of the pair: Razumov Yuri Mikhailovich — Master of Sports
11. Exit to the route — June 30, 1985

• Return — June 30, 1985

12. Collection of LenGorsportcommittee.

Photo 1. General view of the traverse from the west, from p. Bezymanaya. The picture was taken from the cirque of p. Kiik-Bal-Khana and p. Bezymanaya on June 30, 1985. Distance 1 km. Lens T-43 4/40. Shooting point №1 of the pair's route

Scale 1:100000

MAP-SCHEME OF THE ASCENT AREA О — shooting point

Brief description of the approach to the route and descent

From the base camp along the trail along the river in the direction of p. Shatyor (0.5 hours), then turn into the right gorge on the left along the path.

Climbing up the gorge along the western ridge of p. Bezymanaya (ridge on the right), after 3 hours of walking you will find yourself in the cirque of p. Kiik-Bal-Khana and p. Bezymanaya (see photo 3).

From the cirque, the entire traverse between the peaks is clearly visible (see photo 1).

Bypassing the steep western ridge of p. Kiik-Bal-Khana on the left along the talus and snow (with a slight gain in height), you will reach its more gentle part.

The beginning of the rocks emerging from the snow — the start of the route.

Descent — from p. Bezymanaya along the south-eastern ridge to the Chetyrekh pass (via rocks 2) and from the pass — descent along the snowy, with rocky outcrops, north-western slope of p. 5214 m towards the cirque of the peaks:

• Bezymanaya,
• p. 5214 m,
• Garm-Chashma,

and further down to the base camp (descent from the Chetyrekh pass to the base camp took 3 hours).

Emergency descent — from the ridge between p. Kiik-Bal-Khana and p. Bezymanaya to the left onto the more gentle eastern slope.

Explanation for the diagram

Section R0–R1. Up the rocks (150 m), which are located to the left of the steep bastion of the western ridge, after the rocks, exit to deep loose snow, along the snow, bypassing the western bastion on the left, exit to the rocks of the western ridge: (700 m, 35°, 2–3). Section R1–R2. Approach along simple rocks to a wall 10 m, the wall is passed from right to left (caution, loose rocks), then, overcoming small walls, up the rocks, approach to the pre-summit rocky cornice, which is bypassed on the left along the inner corner, exit to p. Kiik-Bal-Khana (4 rock/pit, 150 m, 45°, 2–4). Section R2–R3. Descent from the peak onto the ridge along steep slabs, alternate belay on ledges (80 m, 60°, 3–4). Section R3–R4. Down the ridge along simpler rocks, sections of rocks alternate with sections of snow, small gendarmes are overcome head-on. (350 m, 2–3). Section R4–R5. Further down the ridge to the "Pailus" gendarme. This section of the ridge is steeper compared to the previous one, descent along a sheer wall (5 m), caution, rocks! (200 m, 3–4). Section R5–R6. Before ascending to the "Pailus" gendarme, a control cairn (at this point, the route intersects with the route "along the southern ridge of p. Kiik-Bal-Khana" category 3B difficulty (presumably) — the exit point along the wall onto the southern ridge). Ascent to the "Pailus" gendarme and descent along a sheer wall 15 m (a rappel loop is left). Further along the ridge, overcoming small walls, approach under the second large gendarme (see photo 1) (2 rock/pit, 200 m, 3–4). Section R6–R7. Ascent to the first third of the gendarme and further bypass it on the left along a narrow ledge (10 m, piton belay). Then ascent along a sheer wall 8 m onto the ridge, piton belay. Further along the ridge along rocks of medium difficulty (3 rock/pit, 2 chocks, 150 m, 3–4+). Section R7–R8. Ascent along the ridge along dissected rocks, overcoming small walls (belays mainly on ledges), ascent to the peak Bezymanaya (2 chocks, 100 m, 3–4–).

Note

After the pair from the LenGorsportcommittee collection, this traverse was repeated by a group of climbers consisting of 4 people (July 5, 1985) from the SCA Lenin-grad collection — senior coach Dzhibraev P. G. They confirm the proposed category of difficulty of the route.