ASCENT DOCUMENT

I. ASCENT CATEGORY — technical. 2. ASCENT REGION — South-West Pamir. 3. ASCENT ROUTE — Peak 5100 m (STROITEL) via the Eastern ridge — Cat. 2B (approx.) pr413 dated 27/4-76.20saibog. 4. ASCENT DESCRIPTION: elevation gain — 1600 m, average slope — 45°, length of difficult sections — ~60 m 5. PITS INSERTED: rock — 7. ice — 6. MOVING TIME: 7 h. 7. NUMBER OF NIGHTS ON THE ROUTE: none. 8. TEAM NAME: team of Kharkov Regional Council of the "AVANGARD" sports society 9. SURNAME, NAME, PATRONYMIC OF THE TEAM LEADER, PARTICIPANTS, AND THEIR QUALIFICATION: Nagorny S.I. — 1st sports category. Poberezovsky V.I. — Candidate for Master of Sports. Meleshchenko A.V. — 1st sports category. Krasnoshchyokov N.D. — Candidate for Master of Sports. Paliy I.N. — Candidate for Master of Sports. Spesivtsev A.E. — Master of Sports. 10. TEAM COACH: Spesivtsev A.E. — Master of Sports of the USSR, Honored Coach of the Ukrainian SSR. II. DEPARTURE AND RETURN DATES: departure — July 11, return — July 12, 1975.

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the ascent region.

The Kharkov city sports committee and the regional council of the "Avangard" sports society organized an expedition in the summer season of 1975 to a new region for climbers in the South-West Pamir in the Vez-Dara river valley to participate in the USSR and Ukrainian SSR championships. Our expedition was joined by the expeditions of the Ukrainian Sports Committee (Severodonetsk) and Donetsk.

The Vez-Dara valley is located in the South-West Pamir, 50 km from the city of Khorog — the capital of the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region, which celebrated its 50th anniversary in 1975.

From the city of Khorog, along the Shakhdara river, there are regular buses to the settlement of Roshtkala (43 km). 7 km upstream is the village of Vez, located at the confluence of the Vez-Dara river and the Shakhdara river. The settlement of Roshtkala has a club, school, shops, post office, hospital, village council, and collective farm headquarters. The Shakhdara river valley is one of the few regions of Pamir covered with forest. The forests stretch for many tens of kilometers. In some places, they rise to altitudes of around 3000 m.

An example is the Vez-Dara valley, where there are significant forest areas in the lower and middle reaches, making it possible to organize a convenient base camp (see photo). The length of the valley is about 22 km. In the upper reaches, through the Vez pass, one can access the Garm-Chashma river valley. The peaks in the Vez-Dara valley have heights of around 5000–5200 m, with the highest point being 5243 m. This peak was conditionally named Peak "NADEZHDA" (Hope).

Our base camp was set up near a narzan spring with a water temperature of 25–26 °C, which, according to local residents, is therapeutic. There are around 25 peaks in the area that had not been climbed before our expedition.

There are no previously climbed routes in the area, so all routes are FIRST ASCENTS. From the Shakhdara river valley, along the Vez-Dara river, via a good pack trail, the approach to the start of the route takes 6–7 h. At the base of the slopes of Peak 5100 m (Stroitel) there is a large green meadow — a convenient place for an overnight stay.

I — DAY.

From the base camp, initially along the right, and then along the left (orographic) bank of the Vez-Dara river, upstream along the valley — approach to the base of the slopes of Peak 5100 m to a large green meadow.

• Approach along the right bank
• Crossing to the left bank (orographic)
• Movement upstream along the valley
• Arrival at the large green meadow at the base of the slopes of Peak 5100 m

Organization of a bivouac. Approach time — 3 h.

II — DAY.

Ascent at 6:00 am. Departure from the bivouac at 7:00. Along the moraines, then along the scree slopes, movement towards Peak 5100 m.

The steepness of the scree slopes gradually increases. The ascent initially passes through medium, and then occasionally fine scree. After 30–40 min, we reach a snowfield.

Along the snowfield, we move towards the base of the Eastern counterfort of the pre-summit tower of Peak 5100 m. The counterfort is characterized by:

• initially — steep, broken rocks (steepness around 45°),
• then the steepness gradually increases, and the rocks become more monolithic,
• in places, the counterfort features steep, sometimes vertical walls, 5 to 20 m long.

Protection via rock features and pitons.

From the base of the counterfort, along severely broken rocks, 3–4 ropes straight up.

We approach the base of the first wall, about 10 m long, which is overcome directly through the center, via a not clearly defined inner angle. Protection on the wall is via pitons — 1 piton. Rock quality here is approximately 3.

Further along the broken, steep rocks of the counterfort, 100–120 m upwards, to the base of the second rock wall. Protection on this section is via rock features.

The length of the second wall is about 8 m. Protection via pitons — 1 piton. Rock quality is approximately 3.

Then straight up, and after 40–50 m, we exit to the third rock wall, which is also overcome through the center with piton protection. 2 pitons were inserted.

Further along rocks of medium difficulty, movement towards the pre-summit tower. The rocks here are composed of individual, huge, loose blocks. Movement of a large group across such rocks requires known caution!

Protection on this section is via rock features. When organizing such protection, it is necessary to be very attentive — "live" rocks!

The pre-summit tower is a wall about 20–25 m long. The steepness of the wall is around 60–65°.

The pre-summit tower is overcome using a clearly visible crack that cuts through it from right to left. Rock quality here is medium. Protection on this section is via pitons. 3 pitons were inserted.

From here, the path to the summit follows the sharp rock-snow-ice ridge. In places, there are cornices! From the platform on the pre-summit tower to the summit of Peak 5100 m (Stroitel) is about 30–40 min. Protection on the ridge is mainly via rock features, simultaneous, and sometimes alternating.

The team reached the summit at 12:00. We began the descent about an hour later, following the ascent route. The descent took about 2 h. At the overnight stay location — the green meadow — the team arrived at 15:30. At 17:00, the team continued the descent to the base camp.

MAP OF VEZ-DARA SOUTH-WEST PAMIR

DEBRIEFING PROTOCOL

first ascent of Peak 5100 m via the Eastern ridge (counterfort) Cat. 2B (approx.).

Team of Kharkov Regional Council of the "Avangard" sports society consisting of:

• Nagorny S.I.
• Poberezovsky V.I.
• Meleshchenko A.V.
• Krasnoshchyokov N.D.
• Paliy I.N.
• Spesivtsev A.E.

Present at the debriefing: deputy leader of the Kharkov expedition, second release Master of Sports of the USSR Bershov S. and team coach — Honored Coach of the Ukrainian SSR, Master of Sports of the USSR Spesivtsev A.E. (participant in the ascent).

Nagorny S.I. — Peak 5100 m was chosen by us for a training ascent not by chance:

• Peak 5100 m is an excellent panoramic point for the entire region;
• from it, our main object — Peak 5243 m (Nadezhda) — is clearly visible;
• the third reason is that the height of Peak (Stroitel) is almost equal to Peak 5243 m (Nadezhda).

The team developed the following tactical plan:

• Day I: team's approach from the base camp to the upper camp at the base of the slopes of Peak 5100 m — green meadow.

• Day II: ascent to Peak 5100 m. Descent and return to the base camp. I have no comments regarding the physical or technical preparation of the participants. I believe the route corresponds to Cat. 2B.

Poberezovsky V.I. — the ascent route was chosen successfully. It contributed to acclimatization, training, and reconnaissance and familiarization with the new region.

I believe the route deserves a rating of — Cat. 2B. I have no complaints or comments regarding the participants.

Krasnoshchyokov N.D. — the route is good. It fully deserves a rating of Cat. 2B. I am satisfied with all participants and their actions.

I propose naming the unnamed Peak 5100 m — Peak STROITEL.

Spesivtsev A.E. — team coach: I would like to emphasize once again — the object was chosen very successfully. The route fully deserves a rating of Cat. 2B. All team members are physically and technically well-prepared, well-acclimatized, and, I believe, are fully ready to participate in the Ukrainian SSR championship — to complete the main ascent to Peak 5243 m.

Second release Master of Sports of the USSR Bershov S. — I believe the team is ready to complete complex ascents this season. I agree with the route rating of Cat. 2B. The leadership and ascent are to be counted.

Second release Master of Sports of the USSR Bershov S.

Protocol recorded by Nagorny S.I.