To the Classification Committee of the USSR Alpine Federation Moscow

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF MARX PEAK (6726) VIA THE NORTH-WEST RIDGE ON THE SOUTH-WESTERN PAMIR, MADE BY THE COMBINED TEAM OF ALPINISTS FROM THE DNEPROPETROVSK REGIONAL COMMITTEE FOR PHYSICAL CULTURE AND SPORTS. August 1–16, 1971

3. Climbing Passport

1. Climb category – high-altitude technical.
2. Climbing area – Shakhdarin Range, Pamir.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route – peak "Medoviy" (peak 5350) via the Eastern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category – 3B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference – 1250 m, average steepness – 30°, section lengths – R1–700 m, R2–300 m, R3–25 m, R4–150 m, R5–8 m, R6–200 m, R7–45 m, R8–400 m, R9–350 m.
6. Pitons hammered for protection: rock – 10, ice – 0, bolt – 0.
7. Number of climbing hours – 9.

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF PEAK 5112 M (MEYDAN) VIA THE WESTERN RIDGE FROM THE PASS BETWEEN PEAKS 5112 M AND 5378 M (SOUTHWEST PAMIR, SHAKHDARINSKY RANGE, VAKHAN RANGE, VNUKUT VALLEY) Group members: GUDYALIS A.V., SIMUTIS R.YU. Organization: Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Lithuanian SSR Address: Zemaite's 6 Phone: 63-53-53 Team leader and coach: GUDYALIS Algis Vitautovich 233021, Lithuanian SSR, Kaunas, Kanyuku 1st, 4, apt. 17, work phone 26-45-91, home phone 22-53-41, 75-35-11. All heights mentioned in the report are determined using a topographic map. www.alpfederation.ru

Report

On the First Ascent in Technical Class

OF THE EXPEDITION TEAM FROM THE KHAARKOV MOUNTAINEERING COMMITTEE 15th pass Led by Matyukhina L.G. Route: p. Mionku via the E slope 1982

Map of the Area

Brief Description of the Approach to the Route

ASCENT DOCUMENT.

1. Climbing category - technical - high-altitude.
2. Climbing area - SW Pamir, Shakhdarin range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route - p. Gl. Moskovskoy pravdy, 6000 m, via North ice wall from E. icefall Gl.v.
4. Estimated difficulty category - 5B cat. diff.
5. Height difference (from base camp) - 1500 m.
6. Average steepness - 60°.
7. Total route length - 2000 m.
8. Length of sections with 5-6 cat. diff. - 700 m.
9. Number of pitons driven - 84 ice screws.

Report

On the first ascent of the eastern ridge of Peak Pamyati Zhertv Tetnulda (5746 m) (Moscow Pravda) in the southwestern Pamir, approximately 4B–6 category of difficulty, made by a group of participants of the Donetsk Climbing Competition for the championship of the Ukrainian SSR in 1967 in the class of high-altitude technically complex ascents. Donetsk 1967

I. Geographical location and sports characteristics

The area of Peaks Marx and Engels is located within the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region of the Tajik SSR, in the southwestern Pamir, within the geographical coordinates: 37°02′–37°06′ north latitude and 72°29′–72°32′ east longitude. Climbers began to explore this area relatively recently compared to other regions of the Pamir and Tian Shan. Only in 1954 did an expedition from the Georgian Alpine Club arrive here. They were the first to ascend several peaks in the area, including the highest point – Peak Karl Marx (6726 m) from the south (from the East Nishghar glacier), and the third highest peak – Peak Friedrich Engels (6510 m) from the south (from the Kishty-Dzherob glacier). The high (over 6000 m) ridge from Peak Leningrad State University to Peak Marx drops steeply to the east into the Zurgvand valley, forming a nearly vertical wall about 8 km long. The northeastern walls of Peaks Marx and Engels (to the right of the Kustovsky route, beyond the bend of the wall) can evoke admiration for their inaccessibility among any master of wall climbing. Therefore, with the recent introduction of a new class – high-altitude technically complex ascents – in the USSR championships, societies, and departments on mountaineering, this area became very popular and will likely remain a pilgrimage site for many climbing groups for a long time.

FOR THE CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE CENTRAL COUNCIL OF THE ZENIT VOLUNTARY SPORTS SOCIETY in the II category of high-altitude and technical ascents. P. MOSKOVSKAYA PR AVDA VIA THE EASTERN RIDGE 45 cat. tr. TEAM MOSCOW ZENIT VOLUNTARY SPORTS SOCIETY:

• SHATILOV V.N. — TEAM LEADER
• KRUTYKH A.V.
• KRAYUSHKIN D.A.
• SAFRONOV V.A. August 5–7, 1972 Technical characteristics of the route along the eastern ridge of Pik Pamyati Zhertv Tetnuldа (5746 m) in the southwestern Pamir, based on the results of the first ascent by a group of participants in the Donetsk Alpinade on July 6–8, 1967.

RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION 4144. Protocol No. 332 of April 6, 1971 5B first ascent To the Classification Commission of the USSR Mountaineering Federation South-Western Pamir

PIK AKADEMIKA KRYLOVA VIA EASTERN WALL

(Moscow Truth) (first ascent, approximately 6th category of difficulty)

Ascent Logbook I. Ascent class — high-altitude technical. II. Ascent area — Southwest Pamir range, Shakhdarin range. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Moscow Pravda (South) peak, 5739 m, right Northeast edge. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B. 5. Route characteristics: * Height difference — 1200 m * Length of 5–6 sections — 910 m * Average steepness — 63° 6. Pitons driven:

Tactical Actions of the Team

The team's tactical actions were based on:

• available information about the routes (reports, photos, etc.);
• ensuring safety;
• experience in wall climbing. The Leningrad team has been gathering information about the Erydag massif since 1980. Therefore, based on the available materials, observations of the wall during previous visits to the area, and experience climbing on this wall, a tactical plan for the ascent was developed (see sheet 6), which was fully executed during the ascent.
• On August 3, 1987, at 5:00, the team, after preliminary processing of the first two ropes the day before, started on the route. Tsaruk works first. The other participants move along the fixed ropes.
• In a day, 16 ropes were passed and one processed.
• Overnight stay — comfortable, lying down, in a grotto (point 8), as planned according to the tactical plan.
• On August 4, 1987, they started work at 7:00. Pasikhin works first.