ASCENT DOCUMENT.

1. Climbing category - technical - high-altitude.
2. Climbing area - SW Pamir, Shakhdarin range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route - p. Gl. Moskovskoy pravdy, 6000 m, via North ice wall from E. icefall Gl.v.
4. Estimated difficulty category - 5B cat. diff.
5. Height difference (from base camp) - 1500 m.
6. Average steepness - 60°.
7. Total route length - 2000 m.
8. Length of sections with 5-6 cat. diff. - 700 m.
9. Number of pitons driven - 84 ice screws.
10. Total climbing hours - 26 hours.
11. Number of bivouacs on the route - 3.
12. Team members: Lebedev Anatoly Borisovich, CMS. Samoded Alexey Anatolyevich, MS USSR.
13. Team coach: Poberezovsky Vladimir Iosifovich.
14. Date of departure to the route - August 20, 1982. Date of return - August 24, 1982.

UIAA Scheme

of the route via North ice wall from East icefall of peak Gl. Moskovskoy pravdy, 6000 m. Table of main route characteristics

Brief description of approaches to the route: From the base camp, located near the tongue of Kish-ty-Dzharob glacier, along the slopes of Yuzhn. Moskovskoy pravdy, via the right orographic moraine of the glacier, we reach the Eastern icefall of peak Gl. Moskovskoy pravdy in 3 hours. The ascent to the start of the route is without a trail. One should also beware of rockfalls from the slopes of peak Yuzhn. Moskovskoy pravdy. The observation group can be conveniently positioned on the left side of the glacier opposite the route at "Lukovaya polyana".

Brief explanation of the table of main route characteristics: The most safe start of the route is, in our opinion, directly via the icefall. Section R0–R1: The section is interesting due to diverse ice terrain. The first 40 m represent one of the most interesting and difficult parts of the ascent. Section R1–R2: The icefall "lies down", but the presence of diverse crevasses requires further careful passage. Also, falling ice and rocks from the wall are not excluded. When moving to the right to the bivouac site, one should be particularly careful due to a "closed" bergschrund (we lost a backpack with a camera and equipment there, which delayed the ascent by one day). Section R2–R3: The most dangerous section of the route. Ice and rocks from the wall, as well as rocks flying from the upper cirque require quick passage and alternating observation of the wall during processing of the bergschrund. Section R3–R4: The main section of the route. Diverse ice terrain often with snow under a crust of ice, with ice overhangs, steepness requires strength and attention for successful passage. It is also frustrating to be constantly ready to react to falling rocks and ice.

The steepness of the ice wall mainly protects from falling rocks, which (with a favorable shape of the upper cirque, throwing rocks to the left so that only rocks that have not gained enough speed in the upper cirque hit the ice wall) made it possible to pass this unique natural phenomenon. Section R4–R5: The upper cirque is characterized by an abundance of calgospores, which hinders movement, and the presence of snow-ice cornices one above another along the entire ridge and counterfort requires alternating observation of the situation.

Recommendations for the descent route: From the summit in the direction of peak Yuzhn. Moskovskoy pravdy, move along the ridge to a saddle, from which it is convenient to traverse along a ledge to the right to exit to the ridge behind the summit.

Observation group members:

1. Poberezovsky V.I. - CMS
2. Otiyrko I.V. - 2nd class

The observation group was fully equipped with gear, food, and communication means.

Protocol

of preliminary evaluation of the first ascent route to peak Gl. Moskovskoy pravdy via North ice wall from E. icefall by a group of climbers from the expedition of Kharkov Regional Sports Committee, consisting of: Lebedev A.B. and Samoded A.A.

Present: Team coach - Poberezovsky V.I. Head of rescue team - Melnikov V.V. Climbers:

• Lebedev A.B.
• Samoded A.A.

Climber Lebedev A.B.: The route taken by the group is very interesting both technically and from the point of view of preparation for the ascent and passage of sections with steep ice terrain. The route was climbed entirely on crampons with the use of ice screws for protection. The route requires:

• good ice climbing skills,
• strength,
• attention,
• tactical maturity,
• psychological preparation. The route is very beautiful. I am not aware of any other ice climb of similar length in the mountains. I am glad that everything ended well.

Climber Samoded A.A.: Based on the experience of previous ascents, I think that the terrain deserves a rating of 5B cat. diff. I also think that it is possible to pass the route with one bivouac under the "icicle". I am also glad that the training work done over the past three years has brought the desired result. Many thanks to Lebedev A.B. for practical help in achieving success.

Team coach Poberezovsky V.I.: Observing the group's passage of the route, I believe that it was climbed tactically correctly, and the difficulty deserves a rating of 5B cat. diff. Overall, the route is impressive.

Head of rescue team Melnikov V.V.: I must admit that only unforeseen circumstances prevented me from joining the group, which showed good knowledge of the mountains and demonstrated technical movement on ice. The route is undoubtedly at least 5B cat. diff. The ascent should be credited to the participants.

August 26, 1982.

Team coach: Poberezovsky V.V. Head of rescue team: Melnikov V.V. Climbers:

• Lebedev A.B.
• Samoded A.A.

Section R0–R1 Section R0–R3 Section R3–R4 Section R3–R4 General view of peak Gl. Moskovskoy pravdy - the group's route. Section R3–R4 Section R4–R5