Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Digoria, Chirh ridge, section number 2.6.
2. 300 years of St. Petersburg — 3505 m; via the North ridge.
3. Proposed 1B cat. dif.; first ascent.
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Route height difference — 700 m (from the base of the ridge). Length of the key part of the route — 50 m (from the exit point to the North ridge, from point R1). Length of sections with 4 cat. dif. — 2 m. Steepness of the main part of the route — 70°.

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Route Description

R0–R1 (when ascending from Gebi valley): The path from the Western side is easier to navigate and access the Northern ridge. From the overnight stays at the bottom of the valley, we head East, ascending the Western slope of Chirh ridge. We need to go up to the right along the scree slope, orienting towards the right edge of the central part of Chirh ridge, to the rightmost standalone tower - this is at 3505 m. There are still a number of rock gendarmes to the right of it, but they are lower in height. Along the scree couloir, and in the upper part - along the rocks on its right side, we go up towards the col between the peaks of Ev. Goluba (3503 m) on the left and 300 years of St. Petersburg (3505 m) on the right. Before reaching the col, we divert to the right along rocky ledges and walls between them onto the rocks to the right of the narrow couloir; and exit onto the Northern ridge of peak 3505 m. The entire section is about 900 m. From the overnight stays, it takes 3-4 hours. R1–R2: Along the Northern ridge to 3505 m, mostly on its right side, ascend 20 m along rocks of 2nd category difficulty. To the right of the narrow ridge:

• traverse of 4th category difficulty; 70°; 2 m. After that, another 25 m; 1-2 category difficulty, and ascend to peak 3505 m - 300 years of St. Petersburg. The entire section is about 50 m; 40-50°. There are no signs of human presence on the summit. The summit is a good panoramic point. Descent is via the ascent route.

Route Description

Ascent Passport

1. Rock class.
2. Caucasus. Digoria, Rocky ridge, section number in KMGV 2.6.
3. Uazakhoh (3529 m), via the Eastern ridge and the Northern wall of the tower.
4. 1B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference of the route 530 m, route length about 1 km. Average steepness of the route 30°.
6. Driven pitons: 2/0; закладок 3/0. Left on the route rock anchors — 2, for descent.
7. Team's walking hours – 6 hours, days – 1.
8. Comfortable overnight stay.

Ascent Record

1. Ascent category: combined.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus; 2, 6; Sugan Range.
3. Peak, route: Uruimagovoi Peak (3912 m) via the Southeast Ridge.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 1B category of difficulty; p/p
5. Route description: height difference – about 500 m. route length – 1250 m. section lengths:
   • 2 category of difficulty – 320 m.

Tsikhvarga

Tsikhvarga (4132 m) is a key peak of the Main Ridge between the peak Kain to the northwest and the Gurdzivtsék pass to the southeast. Beyond the pass rises the Saual­khoyne peak. The northern ridge of Tsikhvarga turns into a long spur with the peaks:

• Tsagor
• Legauta. The spur separates the Fastag gorges to the east and Bartuy to the west with glaciers of the same name in their upper reaches.

79. Tsikhvarga via the Southeast ridge, category 2B (L. Gutman, A. Dashkov, A. Krasnov, N. Nekrasova, N. Firsova, August 12, 1937). From the village Dzinaga (group of 4-20 people) cross the Karaugom river by bridge and reach the village Nogkau by forest road. Then ascend by forest trail on the right side of the Karaugom gorge to the first tributary of Karaugom - the Bartuy river, cross it by bridge, then by forest trail high above the right bank of Karaugom approach the second tributary - the Iske river and ford it a little above the waterfall. From here - by trail on the moraine ridge to the Fastag river, which is forded or crossed by bridge. In half an hour, the forest trail will lead to the beautiful "Paradise clearing", surrounded by forest and rocks. From the village Dzinaga 8-12 hours. From the "Paradise clearing", passing by forest trail slightly upstream along the gorge, ford to the right bank of Fastag or, descending, cross by temporary bridge. By trail on the right bank of Fastag:

Fig. 4 10. Tsukhgarty via Western Ridge (combined route by I. Suzhaev, category 4A difficulty, Fig. 4). From the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–6 people) ascend via grassy slopes and then moraines to the right and upwards (northeast) towards the areas near a small lake below the Tsukhgarty glacier, beneath the Sugansky Ridge saddle, which connects the Nakhashbita peak on the left and Tsukhgarty on the right. The journey from the "Nakhashbita" meadow takes 1 hour 15 minutes. From the lake, ascend the steep slope (possible rockfall — belaying required) of the Tsukhgarty glacier:

• approach a small icefall, which is bypassed on the right side closer to the rocks of Tsukhgarty peak
• after the icefall, ascend the narrow glacier (exposed to rockfall from Nakhashbita and Tsukhgarty slopes) in the direction of the snowy slope of the couloir descending from Nakhashbita pass, located between its large gendarme and the Main Nakhashbita peak — on the left The journey from the lake takes 2–2.5 hours. From the glacier, overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge (belaying required) and continue ascending, sticking to the right side of the ice-snow couloir (possible rockfall) or the destroyed rocks on its right side (belaying required). In the middle part of the couloir, exit onto the ridge and then ascend an 70–80-meter slope (pitons belay) to reach the Sugansky Ridge saddle to the left of the Big Gendarme. Ascent time:

Mountainous region of Digoria, Karagoma and Tsey

Chashmura

Peak Bezymyannaya–I (3700 m) Ascent via the Western ridge from the Southern branch of the Tanatseti peak Group composition:

1. Kononova E.P. — team leader, Candidate for Master of Sports
2. Grishkevich A.I. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports
3. Vasilenko V.N. — participant, 1st sports category
4. Baranenko V.D. — participant, 3rd sports category

Fig. 5 11. Peak Shevchenko (4161 m) via the North Ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, Fig. 5). From the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu River, near the tongue of the Nakhashbita glacier (group of 4-12 people), approach the talus, possibly snow-covered slopes descending west from the North Ridge of Peak Shevchenko. From here, ascend via:

• snow-covered talus,
• a snowy slope,
• simple, sometimes steep, heavily damaged rocks with small walls of the Western counterfort of the North Ridge,
• a snowy slope (possible rockfall, insurance) — to the North Ridge of Peak Shevchenko. From the base camp — 3-4 hours. Here, turn right and along the heavily damaged, long, simple snow-covered rocky North Ridge (insurance), then along the snowy ridge and a 150-meter ice-snow ascent, climb to the North Tower. From the North Tower, a 45-50 m ascent on simple blocky rocks leads to Peak Shevchenko. From the base camp — 6-8 hours.

Fig. 5 12. Peak Shevchenko 9416 m via the Northwest Ridge (A. Zyuzin's route, combined, 3B category of difficulty, Fig. 5). From the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu River, not far from the tongue of the Nakhashbita Glacier (group of 4–5 people), ascend along the ridge of the left-bank moraine of the glacier to the base of the Northwest Ridge of Peak Shevchenko. Here, turn left and ascend along the scree to the left of the Northwest Ridge of the peak to a wide, steep snow-ice couloir descending from the Northwest Ridge of the peak. From here:

• ascend to the right along the scree,
• then along the steep snow-ice slope on the left side of this couloir for 150–200 m under the wall (possible rockfall — piton belay). Then, ascend along a small, heavily broken, moderately difficult rock wall to reach the Northwest Ridge of Peak Shevchenko. On the ridge, turn left and ascend along simple and moderately difficult broken rocks of the Northwest Ridge. Overcome the I and II gendarmes head-on along moderately difficult rocks, the III — along a chimney and rocks above moderate difficulty of the wall (piton belay) with a 20 m rappel, and from it to a ledge under the IV gendarme. Bypass the IV and V gendarmes on the right along shelves, and then reach a platform on the Northwest Ridge.

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Elbrus Eastern 5621 m.

from the east through the Achkeryakolsky lava flow Presumably 2A category of complexity Leader: Gavrilov Ilya Vladimirovich 2010 Addresses: 357500, Stavropol Territory, Pyatigorsk, Ogorodnaya st., 37-3, apt. 26 Gavrilov Ilya Vladimirovich, tel. +7-928-829-10-41, djilisutours@rambler.ru 357600, Stavropol Territory, Essentuki, Ordzhonikidze st., 84-3, apt. 43 Mashin Roman Ivanovich, tel. +7-928-285-57-46, romashin79@mail.ru 357700, Stavropol Territory, Kislovodsk, Olkhovskaya st., 14, apt. 1 Ovcharenko Danila Sergeevich, tel. +7-928-008-03-01, ovcharenko911@mail.ru