Route Description
R0–R1 (when ascending from Gebi valley): The path from the Western side is easier to navigate and access the Northern ridge. From the overnight stays at the bottom of the valley, we head East, ascending the Western slope of Chirh ridge. We need to go up to the right along the scree slope, orienting towards the right edge of the central part of Chirh ridge, to the rightmost standalone tower - this is at 3505 m. There are still a number of rock gendarmes to the right of it, but they are lower in height. Along the scree couloir, and in the upper part - along the rocks on its right side, we go up towards the col between the peaks of Ev. Goluba (3503 m) on the left and 300 years of St. Petersburg (3505 m) on the right. Before reaching the col, we divert to the right along rocky ledges and walls between them onto the rocks to the right of the narrow couloir; and exit onto the Northern ridge of peak 3505 m. The entire section is about 900 m. From the overnight stays, it takes 3-4 hours.
R1–R2: Along the Northern ridge to 3505 m, mostly on its right side, ascend 20 m along rocks of 2nd category difficulty. To the right of the narrow ridge:
- traverse of 4th category difficulty; 70°; 2 m.
After that, another 25 m; 1-2 category difficulty, and ascend to peak 3505 m - 300 years of St. Petersburg. The entire section is about 50 m; 40-50°. There are no signs of human presence on the summit. The summit is a good panoramic point. Descent is via the ascent route.
Route Description
R0–R1 (when ascending from Bartui valley): From the overnight stays in the scree cirque, we head West towards the tectonic fault in the Eastern ridge of the South-Eastern tower. The tectonic fault has formed a giant crater in the upper reaches of the cirque; we need to traverse the Southern slope of peak 3464 m along its Northern edge. After passing through a narrow couloir, we exit onto rocks with scree ledges and move up to the left, to the right of the couloir (rocks of 1-2 category difficulty). To reach the ridge, we either go along the couloir or along rocks of 2-3 category difficulty to the right of it (if there is a lot of snow). When exiting onto the ridge (cornices!), we turn left and ascend onto the Northern ridge of peak Chirh (3515 m). From the overnight stays, it takes 3 hours, and about 700 m. Further along the Western slope of the Northern ridge:
- traverse the peaks of Chirh and E. Goluba along scree terraces with rock outcrops;
- then exit onto the col before peak 3505 m – 300 years of St. Petersburg onto the right part of the ridge - this is the beginning of the Northern ridge of peak 3505 m.
From the overnight stays, it takes 5 hours.
R1–R2: Along the Northern ridge to 3505 m, mostly on its right side, ascend 20 m along rocks of 2nd category difficulty.
Then:
- to the right of the narrow ridge, traverse of 4th category difficulty; 70°; 2 m;
- after that, another 25 m; 1-2 category difficulty, and ascend to peak 3505 m - 300 years of St. Petersburg.
The entire section is about 50 m; 40-50°. There are no signs of human presence on the summit. The summit is a good panoramic point. Descent is via the ascent route.
View from peak Chirh to the South. The ascent route is marked. The peaks of G.K.H. are indicated.
Conclusions and Recommendations for the Route
The route corresponds to the stated category difficulty. Due to its predominantly ridge nature, it is safe. Recommended for passage by training and sports groups. Due to the relatively low height of the ridge, snow melts on it in May-June. In connection with this, the route can be passed from May to October. The route is interesting as an ascent to one of the peaks of the understudied Chirh ridge. When ascending, it is recommended to bring:
- pitons of various sizes.
The Gebi and Bartui valleys are border areas, and a border zone permit is required to visit them.