Fig. 5
- Peak Shevchenko (4161 m) via the North Ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, Fig. 5).
From the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu River, near the tongue of the Nakhashbita glacier (group of 4-12 people), approach the talus, possibly snow-covered slopes descending west from the North Ridge of Peak Shevchenko. From here, ascend via:
- snow-covered talus,
- a snowy slope,
- simple, sometimes steep, heavily damaged rocks with small walls of the Western counterfort of the North Ridge,
- a snowy slope (possible rockfall, insurance) — to the North Ridge of Peak Shevchenko.
From the base camp — 3-4 hours.
Here, turn right and along the heavily damaged, long, simple snow-covered rocky North Ridge (insurance), then along the snowy ridge and a 150-meter ice-snow ascent, climb to the North Tower. From the North Tower, a 45-50 m ascent on simple blocky rocks leads to Peak Shevchenko. From the base camp — 6-8 hours.
Descent follows the ascent route.
Source:
- Naumov A. F.
- Karavgom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus)
- M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976