Fig. 5
- Peak Shevchenko 9416 m via the Northwest Ridge (A. Zyuzin's route, combined, 3B category of difficulty, Fig. 5).
From the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu River, not far from the tongue of the Nakhashbita Glacier (group of 4–5 people), ascend along the ridge of the left-bank moraine of the glacier to the base of the Northwest Ridge of Peak Shevchenko.
Here, turn left and ascend along the scree to the left of the Northwest Ridge of the peak to a wide, steep snow-ice couloir descending from the Northwest Ridge of the peak.
From here:
- ascend to the right along the scree,
- then along the steep snow-ice slope on the left side of this couloir for 150–200 m under the wall (possible rockfall — piton belay).
Then, ascend along a small, heavily broken, moderately difficult rock wall to reach the Northwest Ridge of Peak Shevchenko.
On the ridge, turn left and ascend along simple and moderately difficult broken rocks of the Northwest Ridge. Overcome the I and II gendarmes head-on along moderately difficult rocks, the III — along a chimney and rocks above moderate difficulty of the wall (piton belay) with a 20 m rappel, and from it to a ledge under the IV gendarme. Bypass the IV and V gendarmes on the right along shelves, and then reach a platform on the Northwest Ridge.
From the platform, ascend upward along simple and moderately difficult heavily broken rocks of the Northwest Ridge, overcoming numerous gendarmes head-on and bypassing a steep gendarme on the left (piton belay), to reach a platform under the pre-summit ascent.
From the platform, ascend along rocks above moderate difficulty:
- a 5-meter wall,
- then along a chimney with a plug in the upper part upward to the pre-summit ascent.
Further, along the simple Northwest Ridge, reach the North Tower and from it along blocky rocks of the ridge ascend to Peak Shevchenko (bivouac possible).
From the initial bivouac, 10–12 hours. Descent along the North Ridge (see route 11). Duration of the route is 1–2 days.
Naumov A. F. Karau gom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.