Sports training camp of the Altai Republican Federation of Mountaineering and Rock Climbing, dedicated to the 240th anniversary of the Altai Mountains joining Russia.

Report

On the first ascent to the peak Sodruzhestva (2908 m) via the Eastern ridge by a group of sports training camp of the Altai Republican Federation of Mountaineering and Rock Climbing from Gorno-Altaysk. Leader and coach of the event: Kindikov E.V. Leader of the ascent: Kindikov E.V. — 1st sports category. Leader's address: 659700, Altai Republic, Gorno-Altaysk, Kommunistichesky Ave., 172, apt. 39, Eduard V. Kindikov.

Ascent Details

1. Ascent area: Altai, Kuragansky spur of the Katunsky ridge, Chechektu gorge.
2. Peak: Sodruzhestva (2908 m)
3. Route: via the Eastern ridge from the peak Achylgan.

Наи Тарасевича (3450) 3А cat. 4, diff. 10А steepness 400,686 n.p., 500,45 cat. 4,5 000 4. ro­bu­ce, C, fe­n­cu­ret­ted, 10. uce­nur, r. Пу­сан­ц 22/8–88 г. The ap­proach be­gins from the campsites on Lake Yak­kem. The trail goes:

• along the lake shore,
• then along the Ak­kem river, cross­ing it in the mid­dle part. It takes 2.5–3 hours to reach the glacier tongue. Cross­ing the Ak­kem glacier to the other side to the left (orographically) slope. Up along the clean brook on the mo­rena - ascent to the hang­ing val­ley of PF glacier. From the Ak­kem glacier tongue to the firn line in the PF cirque, it takes 2 hours to ap­proach. On the right - a rocky bastion of Vasily Tarasevich peak, on the left - an icy panzer of Nikolai Rerikh peak.

V. Titova 3 ridge. Drakin A.V. Altai. Katunsky ridge. I. 1.6 dated November 26, 1993, p. 9

Passport

1. Altai. Katunsky ridge. Akkem lake area.
2. V. Titova 3 ridge. Height 3678.
3. Proposed 1B category of difficulty (first ascent)
4. Height difference 700 m, length 2300.
5. Moving time (from the base camp on Akkem lake and back) 15 hours.
6. Leader: Drakin Andrey Valentinovich CMS

1. Rock climbing.
2. Altai, Katunsky ridge.
3. Classified as 2A for route category modification.
4. Height difference 450 m, length 1900 m.
5. Moving time 8.5 hours from the camp under Boris peak.
6. Mokhova V.M. 1st sports category. Belyaev P.A. 3rd sports category. Vinnikov K.E. 1st sports category. Egorov L.M. 3rd sports category.

6. Tomsk student camp

Tancuk crycenos (3500) — 25 km. 23 sp. + soo, 800, 450, 5 sm, 3 ch. K. Actanemko, e. hypodes, B. Hamoenke, r. pycau 43–86:

Ascent Certificate

1. Ascent class: Ice climb.
2. Ascent area: Altai. Katunsky ridge.
3. Peak Razdel'naya from the north, height 3556 m, snow-ice route.
4. Expected difficulty category: 2A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 750 m, average slope 25–30°.
6. Pitons: 3 ice screws for belaying.
7. Number of climbing hours: II–12.
8. Ascent is made from camp to camp without overnight stay.
9. Climbers:

Участok R0–R1. 200 m, 35° to the brow on the left to avoid crevasses. Deep snow. Участok R1–R2. Slope steepness increases to 45°, 150 m. Участok R2–R3. Steepness increases to 80°, 40 m. Protection using ice axes. Участok R3–R4. Labyrinth among seracs in deep snow, 200–300 m. Bridges! 7–10 m walls are encountered. Entering a hollow. Участok R4–R5. 300 m, gentle slope in the hollow. Entering under the northern slopes of Urusvati. Участok R5–R6: Bergschrund. Passing at the most convenient spot under an overhanging lower ice wall, 7 m, 90°. Участok R6–R7: 45°, 70 m, deep snow. Reaching the ridge. Участok R7–R8:

• 50 m along the ridge to the pre-summit ascent.
• The ridge abuts against the slope.

Ascent Passport

Area — Altai, Katunsky ridge. Summit — Peak 60 let Pobedy. Route — combined. Estimated category of difficulty — 1B. Height difference — 400 m. Distance — 1000 m. Use of technical means — ice axes, crampons, rope. Travel time — 7–8 hours from overnight stay. Leader — Shumilov V. D., instructor cert. No. 697 Participants:

• Kavunenko V. D. — Master of Sports of Russia International Class
• Tinin Yu. P. — Candidate for Master of Sports
• Odintsov Yu. F. — 1st sports category
• Odintsov F. Yu. — badge "Alp. Rossii"
• Bedarev M. V. — badge "Alp. Rossii"
• Zhukov I. V. — unranked
• Zhukova A. I. — unranked

Ascent Record

1. Altai, Aktru gorge, section 1.
2. Aktru peak, 4044 m, via the South slope.
3. Proposed category: 2B, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Elevation gain: 500 m, distance: 700 m, average steepness of the main part: 45°.
6. Pitons used: 2 rock, 2 ice.
7. Team's total climbing hours: 5 hours.
8. Leader: Afanasiev A.E., Candidate Master of Sports. Team members: Shakleev V.I., Candidate Master of Sports, Morozov V.V., Candidate Master of Sports.