Участok R0–R1. 200 m, 35° to the brow on the left to avoid crevasses. Deep snow.

Участok R1–R2. Slope steepness increases to 45°, 150 m.

Участok R2–R3. Steepness increases to 80°, 40 m. Protection using ice axes.

Участok R3–R4. Labyrinth among seracs in deep snow, 200–300 m. Bridges! 7–10 m walls are encountered. Entering a hollow.

Участok R4–R5. 300 m, gentle slope in the hollow. Entering under the northern slopes of Urusvati.

Участok R5–R6: Bergschrund. Passing at the most convenient spot under an overhanging lower ice wall, 7 m, 90°.

Участok R6–R7: 45°, 70 m, deep snow. Reaching the ridge.

Участok R7–R8:

  • 50 m along the ridge to the pre-summit ascent.
  • The ridge abuts against the slope.

Участok R8–R9: Ascent, 50°, 159 m. Summit of Urusvati.

Участok R9–R10:

  • From the summit, northwards down the rocky ridge, 35° to a saddle, 350 m vertically.
  • Two sport descents in the middle.

Участok R10–R11. 400 m vertically from the saddle along the southern ridge of v. N. Rerikha, protection using pitons and slings, 45°.

Descent along the Eastern ridge of v. N. Rerikha, category 26.

From the tongue of Ak-kem glacier — the third gorge to the right (as you move). It's better to approach via the center of the glacier. At the third gorge, there's a transition to the left (orographically) lateral moraine of Ak-kem glacier. Then along a large axis along the stream to the tongue of Markosheva glacier, which originates from:

  • slopes of Urusvati peak
  • Urusvati–Rerikha cirque

Along the glacier tongue to the icefall. The icefall is passed via an ice wall and rocks on the right or left. Beyond the icefall — exit to Urusvati–Rerikha cirque. Crossing the glacier under the slopes of Urusvati peak; the glacier has closed crevasses. The route begins when transitioning from the cirque to the Eastern slope of Urusvati peak. A glacier flows down this slope, overflowing into the cirque via an icefall, and therefore the ice relief here is constantly changing.

Sources

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