- Rock climbing.
- Altai, Katunsky ridge.
- Classified as 2A for route category modification.
- Height difference 450 m, length 1900 m.
- Moving time 8.5 hours from the camp under Boris peak.
- Mokhova V.M. 1st sports category. Belyaev P.A. 3rd sports category. Vinnikov K.E. 1st sports category. Egorov L.M. 3rd sports category. Katonin V.V. 2nd sports category.
- Coach Drakin A.V., CMS, 1st category No.3450.
- Departure and return on July 16, 1994.
- Event organized by Altai Regional Sports Committee.
Approach Description
From the base camp located on Akkem Lake, move along the lake to the point where the Akkem River flows into the lake (40–50 min). The river is forded with insurance. After crossing, move along the trail to the Akkem glacier (the trail is often lost on the large talus). Climb onto the glacier tongue from the left along the lateral moraine. Then go along the glacier tongue along the slopes of Boris peak to the beginning of the 10-3 ridge. The moraine rampart located on the left along the way separates a convenient meadow with a small lake for a bivouac. The descent to the meadow is along a large talus covered with lichen, very slippery in the rain.
Travel time from camp to meadow: 3–3.5 hours.
V. Titova, north ridge
From the base camp located under Boris peak, move towards Druzhba pass between Blagoeva and Titova peaks. First, go along the moraine, which is a medium and large talus, then along the glacier under the pass. Reach the pass in the rocky peaks, cross the bergschrund under the pass using snow bridges (2 hours 30 min). The route from Druzhba pass begins with a talus ridge, which turns into a rocky ridge interspersed with snow. Move in tied teams simultaneously or with alternate belay depending on the complexity of the route. Where the snowy ridge turns into a corniche, go to the right along the way, below the предполагаемой line of corniche collapse. Before the summit, there is the most difficult rocky section; go with alternate belay (2 hours 30 min).
Descent is via the ascent route (3 hours 30 min).
