Dzhamalaktau (3950 m)

1. Ascent from the north.
2. Traverse of the Dzhamalaktau — Dinamo­vets peaks. Ascent to the summit of Dzhamalaktau from the north, route 2B cat. difficulty (Fig. 19). The summit of Dzhamalaktau is located in the new spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge in the crest, which serves as a watershed for the rivers:

• Sredniy Talgar
• Bolshoy Klyuch. From the Talgar alpine camp, the path goes along the trail, which starts on the opposite side of the river and leads to the prospectors' house near the Solnechny glacier.

Photo of 4 Corner Peaks of the traverse:

• 6th along Korablestroitelstvo
• Chekist
• Solntsevo
• AktiU

Full Traverse Route Diagram

from the southwest to the northeast of the Peak Kommunizm massif. The Peak Kommunizm massif is located in the Malo-Almatinsky spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau, in the Tian Shan mountains, in the upper reaches of the Komosomolka river, a tributary of the Left Talgar river. The absolute height of the Kommunizm massif is 4376 meters above sea level. There are six climbed routes to Peak Kommunizm, two of which are category 4B. The approach path to the Kommunizm massif is through the Abay pass along the moraine and the Bogdanovich glacier to the overnight stay at the southwest wall of Peak Kommunizm, category 4B.

General Characteristics

of the full traverse of the Kommunizm massif (from southwest to northeast). The route begins on the southwest wall of Peak Kommunizm, which has an elevation of 3770 m. The relative height of the southwest wall is 606 m. The overall steepness is 65–70°. On the right, the wall is bounded by a very steep, narrow snow-ice couloir starting from the very summit. On the left, there are a series of isolated buttresses dissected by narrow couloirs. The upper part features very steep, in places vertical, sections of great length. In the center of the wall, there is a steeply falling, weakly expressed buttress. (via peaks: Smena (4080), Uzhbinka (3910), Zub (3880), Snow Plateau (3825))

of medium difficulty. The rocks lead to a narrow ridge "п­Л­ЛЕ", about 100 m long. The section is very tense, requiring careful belaying through pitons and ledges, the latter needing to be thoroughly tested. The last part of the section (15 m) is overcome by sitting astride. The ridge leads to the 1st gendarme. Next is a small depression in the ridge. A rocky bridge leads to the 2nd gendarme, which is bypassed along a scree shelf on the left (60 m). The shelf leads to the right side of the ridge and ends abruptly. Then, we traverse the gendarme to the right along complex rocks into a large internal angle. This is one of the key sections of the route. Its length is about 50 m. The section requires thorough piton belaying. The rocks lead to a small shelf where all participants can gather. From the shelf, we ascend along an internal angle (70°–40 m). The rocks are complex, requiring piton belaying. The angle leads to the shoulder of the gendarme, the upper part of which is bypassed on the right along rocks of medium difficulty. Next comes a very jagged, sharp ridge — 40 m. The section requires careful belaying. The ridge leads to a sheer wall 30 m. A "sitting" descent is organized. From the bridge, we ascend along a rocky wall 15 m, 50° and descend a little below the ridge. Here, on a small shelf, a bivouac is organized. The journey from the 1st bivouac to the 2nd takes 11 hours. Day III: from the bivouac site, a small descent along rocks leads to a steep 60° rocky ascent of the ridge. The first 80 m of the ascent are traversed along scree shelves, leading to a rocky wall. The wall begins with rocks resembling lake ice (40 m — 45), which are relatively easy to traverse. Then, it is necessary to move traverse to the right onto the ridge along a narrow rocky shelf with thorough piton belaying. We are on the right side of the ridge.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent region — Tian Shan, Chatkal Ridge.
3. Ascent route — to the summit of Big Chimgan via the north-eastern wall. Summit elevation — 3207 m above sea level.
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • elevation gain — 2000 m;
   • average steepness — 62°;
   • complex section length — 700 m.
5. Pitons hammered in:
   • rock — 35

89. Traverse of Kukryniksy Severaya - Yuzhnaya The route is rocky, Category 1B complexity (Fig. 5, 87, 93, 94). Length - 2600 m, elevation gain - 630 m, time - 6-7 hours. The path from the Kirgizat alplager (group size not limited) to the Kukryniksy Severaya summit - see route 87. From the Severaya summit:

• descend 50-80 meters down the partly snow-covered talus on the right side of the South ridge to the col;
• then traverse 450-500 m along the talus with some easy broken rock on the right side of the long ridge to reach the Kukryniksy Glavnaya summit (30-40 minutes from Severaya). From the Glavnaya summit:
• descend down the partly snow-covered talus on the right side of the 100-120-meter South ridge to the col;
• traverse along the easy broken rock and talus of the 700-800-meter col to approach the North ridge of Kukryniksy Yuzhnaya;
• from the col, ascend the simple, possibly snow-covered, 150-200-meter rock of the North ridge to reach the Kukryniksy Yuzhnaya summit (1-1.5 hours from Glavnaya). Descend along the talus slope via Kievyanka pass.

47. Varzobskaya Pila ridge traverse (all summits except Western summit), category 3B route, fig. 26.

From the bivouac by the lake, ascend into the upper reaches of the stream and to the right up grassy slopes to the col between the Western summit and the main ridge of Varzobskaya Pila. In the upper part, the ascent to the col goes across rocks via ledges and gullies exiting onto the right part of the col. The ascent takes 1.5–2 hours. From the col, to the right below the gendarme wall. Ascend the gendarme on its right side for 60 m. Piton belay. Follow an easy, gently-sloping, stepped ridge to the top of the gendarme. Cairn. Descend from the gendarme down a steep 40-m gully onto the col. Possible snow cornices. The next gendarme is sharp-topped, red-colored. Follow the ridge upwards for 30–40 m to a talus-covered area from which, on the right, bypass the gendarme ridge along a wide ledge. The ledge is 10–15 m below the ridge of the gendarme. From the ledge, cross a small gendarme, and traverse a degraded ridge to the next col. To the next gendarme, ascend on the right up a slab with a ledge. The top of the gendarme is a gently sloping ridge. Descend to the col via a gully or ledges. Fig. 26. To ascend to the summit — the highest point of the ridge — follow moderately difficult rocks. To descend from the summit, follow the degraded ridge. Bypass gendarmes on the left by descending steeply down a gully on the north side and then continue along ledges and moderately difficult rocks on the northern slope of the ridge. Exit onto the ridge near a tall gendarme which will be followed by a sharp depression in the ridge. Down the degraded ridge to the east, bypassing gendarmes on the left. From the last gendarme, lower by rope and then descend down and left across a steep snowpatch leaving the ridge.

28. Bolshoy Igizak from Naizgba Pass, category 2A route, fig. 14.

From the "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac, proceed upwards along the Igizak River through grassy slopes and scree, and then through snow. Then, turn right and begin ascending through a snow-filled depression under the northern slopes of Maly Igizak peak. Before reaching the slopes of Bolshoy Igizak, traverse left towards Naizgba Pass. The ascent to the pass is over snow. Fig. 14. From the pass, ascend upwards via scree, keeping the ridge to the right. After circumventing the lower part of the ridge, access it via ledges and continue moving along the ridge over moderately difficult rock terrain, overcoming short walls interspersed with ledges. Belaying is simultaneous and alternating. Before reaching the summit, prior to a steep rise in the ridge, exit the ridge to the right via ledges into a narrow couloir and ascend approximately 30 m through it. The upper part involves navigating large, wedged rock blocks. The couloir leads to the western ridge of the peak, from where the summit is reached to the right via snow. The descent from the summit is along the western ridge — route 27. The ascent takes 6–7 hours.

Passport

I. Rock class 2. Pamir-Alay, Gissarsky ridge 3. Peak "4200" along the center of the Southeast wall 4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, variant 5. Height difference: 630 m, length — 965 m. Length of sections: 5 category of difficulty – 385 m, 6 category of difficulty – 250 m. Average steepness of the main part — 85° (3570–4130), including 6 category of difficulty: 95° (3835–3900), (3915–3935); 97° (3945–3965); 93° (3975–4075) 6. Pitons hammered:

V. ADAMTASH, 4A, via the Eastern Ridge (V. Korotkov's route, 68)

From the Big Alaudin Lakes, follow the trail towards the Mutny Lakes until the turn to the Adamtash Pass. Go around the spur (on the right or left) and approach a characteristic white wall in the lower part of the spur above a large green shoulder. The landmark is a waterfall to the right. Here is the 1st control point. Put on climbing shoes and tie in here. R0–R1: 40 m at 70°, moderately difficult rock with good holds. Then enter a chimney (7–8 m) and continue to a black wall; bypass it and reach a ledge. Alternate belay. R1–R2: 100 m at 45°, moderately difficult rock. Alternate belay. R2–R3: 120 m at 30–40° scree, exit below a wall. Simultaneous movement. R3–R4: An internal corner (40 m at 70°) with loose rocks. Then move 10 m straight up and then 5 m right along a ledge, followed by 10 m left and up a slab. The landmark to the left is a grey wall. Continue 40 m right and up at 80°, then 80 m up ledges at 60°, and 40 m of difficult climbing at 85–90° with piton protection. R4–R5: Traverse left (30 m) and 50 m along the left side of the spur. The rocks are sharp with few cracks. Exit onto a saddle via a path of II cat. diff. R5–R6: Traverse left towards the visible col before the wall of the South-Eastern Ridge. Alternate belay. Then 40 m along a smoothed slab. Exit onto the ridge via scree (snow in June). 40 m. Cross over to the South-West slope. R6–R7: 200 m at 30–40° along scree ledges towards the rusty-red rocks on the left side of the wall. Simultaneous movement. R7–R8: Easy climbing on moderately difficult rocks (250 m at 40°). Alternate belay.