Dzhamalaktau (3950 m)

1. Ascent from the north.
2. Traverse of the Dzhamalaktau — Dinamo­vets peaks.

Ascent to the summit of Dzhamalaktau from the north, route 2B cat. difficulty (Fig. 19).

The summit of Dzhamalaktau is located in the new spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge in the crest, which serves as a watershed for the rivers:

• Sredniy Talgar
• Bolshoy Klyuch.

From the Talgar alpine camp, the path goes along the trail, which starts on the opposite side of the river and leads to the prospectors' house near the Solnechny glacier. It is convenient to set up a bivouac about 500 meters before the house, near the water. From the camp, it takes 2–3 hours to hike.

From the prospectors' house, follow the left edge of the moraine to the Solnechny glacier and further along its left side to the ascent to the Solnechny pass. The ascent goes along the ice covered with talus, and at the beginning of summer — along the snow. Steepness is 30–35°. From the overnight stay to the pass, it takes 2–3 hours to hike. Height 3740 m.

From the pass, head south along the snowy slope. Steepness is up to 35°, the length is about 50 m. The further 100-meter ascent has a steepness of up to 45°. The 1st gendarme is bypassed on the right. Behind it is a snowy-ice saddle. From the saddle, along the snow and talus, and then along the easy rocks, exit to the couloir on the right. The couloir is snowy-ice. Further along the easy rocks and snowy-ice slope, exit to the ridge leading to the summit.

The first gendarme is bypassed on the right, then a 100-meter corridor with flowstone, leading to the destroyed rocks. Insurance is through ledges and hook. Further along the narrow chute with flowstone, leading to the narrow ridge, and along it — to the summit.

• The summit is a small area for 4–5 people
• From the pass to the summit: 2.5–3 hours to hike
• Descent along the ascent route
• The entire ascent takes 8–9 hours

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants — no more than 15 people.
2. Initial bivouac on the Solnechny glacier.
3. Departure time from the bivouac no later than 5:00
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) 2 × 30 m main rope; b) 2 ice axes; c) 2 rock pitons; d) 2 carabiners; e) 2 hammers;