Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge.
3. Peak — Chkalov Peak, height — 3892 m, route — along the northern ridge.
4. Expected difficulty category — 2B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference — 700 m.
   • Average steepness — 45°.
   • Sections of 5th category of difficulty are absent
6. Pitons driven:

I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. Climbing area — Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Golubina lake area 3. Peak Ala-Archa 4088 m via Eastern ridge, route characteristic — ridge climb 4. Proposed complexity category — 3A 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 520 m, length — 880 m, including sections of 3*-4th cat. diff. — 90 m, 3rd cat. diff. — 350 m; average slope — 42° 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 17(0), chocks — 8(0), ice — 0 7. Duration — 12 hours 8. Overnight stays — none 9. Team leader — Kuzovov D.S., Master of Sports

The route starts from the bergschrund. In winter, the crevices are usually filled with snow and crossing the bergschrund is not particularly difficult. In summer, however, there may be a difference in the walls of the crevice of up to 3–5 m of sheer ice or very difficult firn that is challenging to belay. Section R0–R4:

• Ice slab with a slope of up to 50°.
• Alternating movement.
• Belay using ice screws. Section R3–R3:
• Rock islands covered with ice.
• In summer, due to the thin ice, the rocks may be exposed, so belaying is expected to be done using both ice screws and rock protection (pitons and nuts).
• Due to the specifics of the rock relief, thin rock pitons and small-sized nuts (preferably stoppers) are preferable. Section R4–R5:

Section 8

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent classification — technical
2. Ascent region — North Tien Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge, Ala-Archa gorge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Kyrgyzstan Peak (4840 m), via the central counterfort of the north wall.
4. Presumed difficulty category — 5B
5. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 1290 m average steepness — 80°, length of difficult section 5–6 hours, tr — 1040 m
6. Pitons hammered in: rock — 215 ice — 69, bolt — none, of which for creating belay anchor points — 48
7. Number of climbing hours — 47

Report

On the ascent of peak "Kirgizstan" via the North face (claimed for the USSR Championship in the technically challenging category). And on the traverse of peak "Kirgizstan" with ascent via the North face (claimed for the Central Council Championship of the "Spartak" Volunteer Sports Society). Alma-Ata, 1963 www.alpfederation.ru

I. Introduction

The combined team of the Kazakh Republican Council of the "Spartak" Volunteer Sports Society on July 5-8, 1963, completed the ascent of peak "Kirgizstan" via the North face, claimed for the USSR Championship in the technically challenging category, and on July 1-3, they completed a traverse of the peak with ascent via the North face. Peak "Kirgizstan" is located in the upper reaches of the Salyk glacier in the Alamedin gorge, in the central part of the Kyrgyz Ala-Too range (see the Kyrgyz Ala-Too map) in the area of the Alamedin walls, very popular among climbers of Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan. The absolute height of the peak is 4840 m. It is the highest point of the latitudinal part of the Alamedin spur.

Pitch 0–2. Start — bergschrund. It is better to cross it in the left part of the lowering, as the width of the crevasse and the wall of the bergschrund are somewhat smaller. Further movement is along the ice slope with a steepness of 50–55° to the rocks. Insurance through ice screws, use of ice screws and piolet-traction (French: "piolet-traction", Russian: айс-фифи). Pitch 2 — 5. Rocky belt, steep granite monoliths, limited selection of cracks. At first, movement along the inner corner, then a small cornice; after it, along an inclined crack to the left. Very difficult climbing, passing in aide (French: "aide", Russian: ИТО). When planning the passage of this section, it is best to use preliminary processing. For insurance, the entire set of rock equipment is used:

• pitons (Russian: крючья),
• nuts (Russian: закладки),
• cams (Russian: френды),
• piton-ladders (Russian: крю-коно-лесе-нки) etc. Pitch 6 — II. A small inclined shelf, overnight stay is possible using a hammock or a square piece of fabric under a tent. Further:
• Very difficult climbing along a vaguely expressed chimney
• Exit under a cornice

Ascent Passport

1. Region, Northern Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range, 7.4.
2. Peak Korona (5th) via 3rd ridge.
3. Category of difficulty: 5B.
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain — 700 m. Route length — 920 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 160 m. Average slope of the route: main part of the route — 61°,

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz ridge, 7.4
2. Name of the peak: Korona (5th), center of the SW wall
3. 6A category of difficulty
4. Route type: rock
5. Height difference: 838 m Route length: 892 m Length of sections: V category of difficulty 533 m VI category of difficulty 102 m Average steepness:

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Dolomit Severny via the right part of the western wall, category 4A by the team led by Popov V.I.

I. Climbing Passport