The route starts from the bergschrund. In winter, the crevices are usually filled with snow and crossing the bergschrund is not particularly difficult. In summer, however, there may be a difference in the walls of the crevice of up to 3–5 m of sheer ice or very difficult firn that is challenging to belay.
Section R0–R4:
- Ice slab with a slope of up to 50°.
- Alternating movement.
- Belay using ice screws.
Section R3–R3:
- Rock islands covered with ice.
- In summer, due to the thin ice, the rocks may be exposed, so belaying is expected to be done using both ice screws and rock protection (pitons and nuts).
- Due to the specifics of the rock relief, thin rock pitons and small-sized nuts (preferably stoppers) are preferable.
Section R4–R5:
- Ice slab in the upper part, leading to a narrow rocky chimney filled with ice.
- Alternating movement.
- Belay using ice screws.
Section R5–R4:
- Rocky chimney (funnel) filled with ice, leading to the pre-summit ridge.
- In summer, the rocks in the chimney may be exposed from ice.
- In case of poor ice conditions (not allowing for reliable belaying), it is possible to exit to the right side of the rocky edge.
- Alternating movement.
- Piton belay.
Along the ridge, 3–4 ropes simultaneously, exit to the summit. Descent to the southeast via route 2Е cat. sl. to the cirque of l.Salnk and further down the Salnk gorge to the "Tёплые Ключи" base camp.