The ascent to the ridge in its lower part from the overnight stay takes 1.5 hours. Then the movement goes up the ridge in the general direction towards the peak Sverdlova massif. The average steepness of the ridge is 30–35°, but there are separate sections up to 45–50°, where alternate belay is required. The movement along the ridge to the summit takes 3 hours. The summit is a rocky outcrop where a spur branches off to the southeast from the main northeastern ridge. From the summit, the northern and eastern slopes of the peak Sverdlova massif and the eastern part of the Zadadsky ridge are well visible. Descent is via the ascent route. It takes 2 hours to reach the overnight stay. Category: 1B. Recommended equipment for a group of 4 people:

• Main rope (30 m) — 2 pcs.
• Tent — 1 pc.
• Ice screws — 2 pcs.
• Rock hammer — 1 pc.
• Crampons — 4 pairs
• Carabiners — 6 pcs. The description was compiled by alpinism instructor A. Kiselev

Description

of the route to the summit 4670 m (along the south-eastern ridge) The summit 4670 m is located in the spur of the Zaalaysky ridge, where the peak Sverdlova is situated. North of the peak Sverdlova, the spur bifurcates into two ridges:

• One initially goes northwest, then turns northeast.
• The other, shorter one, goes immediately northeast. The summit 4670 m is located in it. The route begins from the "3800" camp, located in the upper reaches of the Kок-Kyik valley, crosses an old moraine and approaches the ridge of the summit 4670 m. The azimuth of the summit from

Ascent Log

1. Zaalai Ridge, Kichkesu gorge, Pograniqnikov settlement area, 4.4 (2008)
2. Peak 4800 m (proposed name: Mereckii Peak), via "Srednii Galstuk" (Middle Tie) on the NE wall.
3. Proposed category: 4A, first ascent.
4. The route is combined.
5. Height difference: 500 m. Distance: 950 m. Average steepness: 40°.
6. 2 pitons left on the descent from the summit tower.
7. Climbing time: 4.5 hours.
8. Team leader: Koshelenko Yu. — Honored Master of Sports.

Route Description

Ascent to the summit "5149"

Via the north-west ridge. Cat. diff. 1B. Depart from the base camp no later than 7:00 am. The base camp is located at an altitude of 4200 m near the tongue of the Oktyabrsky glacier at Serebrennny stream on the right orographic side of the valley. On the way to the foot of the summit, the Kок-Сай river is forded. The duration of the journey to the foot is about 1 hour. The path to the summit begins along the slope of 25°–30° of the NW ridge in the direction of the shoulder before the first steep rise of the ridge. The slope is covered with medium scree. Once on the ridge, rope up! The height of the shoulder is about 4700 m. The duration of the path from the foot is approximately 1 hour 30 minutes. Then move along the ridge towards the summit. The first section of the ridge rises at an angle of 45° for 50–60 m and is a not very wide (3–4 m) snow patch with individual protruding rocks. Insurance is simultaneous. Next begins the 1st rocky section of the ridge, rising with 3 walls 4–7 meters high and alternating between them with more gentle sections covered with snow. The average steepness of the section is 25°–30°. Insurance when overcoming rocky ascents is alternating, via rock outcrops. Further, the ridge widens, slightly drops, and then rises again at an angle of 10°–15° and is covered with snow. There follows a snowy ascent of the ridge with a steepness of 45°–50°, then a pre-summit section with a steepness of 25°, also snowy with individual protruding rocks. The width of the ridge allows simultaneous movement in rope teams. The last 100–120 meters to the summit are almost flat, with a slight ascent, and feature broken rocks. The summit consists of broken rocks. The time taken from the point of exit onto the ridge (shoulder before the first ascent of the ridge) to the summit is 2–2.5 hours.

From the summit 5100 m there is a series of descents and ascents to the snowy narrow ridge "strelka" and along it a descent into the circus, onto the glacier. The time taken to complete the route from the summit 5100 m to the glacier takes 2 hours. On both sides of the snowy ridge "strelka" the slope is avalanche-prone, requiring great caution. The group mastered the route 3A cat. sl. Recommended equipment for a group of 4 people. Rope 40 m - 2 pcs. Ice screws - 2 pcs. Hammers - 2 pcs. Crampons - 4 pairs. Tent - 1 pc. The description was compiled by A. Kiselev

Ascent via the South Ridge, category 3A.

Day 1

Departure at 15:00 from the base camp located at 4200 m under the tongue of the Oktyabrsky Glacier on the right (orographic) side of the valley. On the way to the foot of the summit, the branches of the Kok-Sai River are forded twice. The duration of the path to the foot of the summit is 1 hour. The path to the summit begins on the southwest slope via a couloir covered with medium scree. The steepness of the ascent is initially 20°, then increases to 35°. The overnight stop is chosen at an altitude of around 5100 m on the slope leading to the south ridge. There, with some effort, a campsite can be constructed, and there are snowfields for obtaining water. The duration of the path from the base camp to the overnight stop is 4–5 hours.

Day 2

Departure at 4:30 AM up the slope with a steepness of 30°–40°, covered with snow and small scree, in the direction of the south ridge. Movement is in rope teams. The duration of the path to the ridge is up to 1 hour. Movement along the ridge is in rope teams to the left in the direction of the summit. Insurance is simultaneous. Initially, the ridge is a rocky ridge with a slight steepness of ascent. Movement is with simultaneous insurance through rocks.

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE PAMYATI ZHENSKOY SBORNOY PEAK VIA THE SOUTHWEST RIDGE ROUTE, CATEGORY 2B, BY THE ASIA OUTDOOR GUIDING TEAM ON AUGUST 9, 2019

2020 I. Ascent Passport

Report

On the first ascent of the peak Nevidimka (4686 m) via the SW ridge through the 4607 m pass, category 1B-2A, by the Asia Outdoor guide team on July 29, 2023.

2023 I. Climbing Report Form

The ascent to the ridge on the left along the track is initially on snow (30–35°), then the snow gives way to ice covered with a thin layer of loose snow (steepness 40–45°). Exit to the second saddle from the steep ascent. Further along the ridge, overcoming the gendarmes "head-on". Descent to the saddle before the steep ascent via a wall (5 m). From the saddle, on the right side of the steep, wide gully along the rocks. Snow-covered slabs, rope protection is via rock features. Having passed a large smooth slab (photo 2), upwards to the right via a short wall. In this section (from the saddle), 3 rock pitons were hammered in. Further along a not very pronounced steep (55–60°) ridge upwards. The rocks are solid, местами заглаженные, rope protection via rock features (I–2 pitons per rope). Photo 3. In places, there are sheer walls 10–15 m. Exit to the right shoulder of the gendarme (Photo 4), bypassing it on the right via a narrow ledge above the sheer drop and descent to the saddle before the snowy ascent. The total ascent to the gendarme is about 300 m, with a total of 11 pitons hammered in. From the base of the ridge — 4 hours. From the saddle, a steep (45°–50°) snowy ascent. The snow is exceptionally heavy, depth — 80 cm – 1 m, loose. In places, there is a weak crust, on which one can move by crawling. Ascent 100 m. Further, a more gentle wide ridge, the character of the snow is the same. Finally, a long ascent along a slope of about 30° leads to the summit of Peak Volodarsky (on the left side — a cornice). From the saddle behind the gendarme — 4 hours. The descent is initially along the north-eastern ridge for 200 m, a steep ridge — 50–60°, then downwards to the left, bypassing the ice drops. Snow depth is about 60 cm, loose. Further, re-entering the ascent tracks and following them to the overnight stop. From the summit — 3–4 hours. On the next day, descent to the base camp.

2010 Russian Mountaineering Championship, High Altitude Category

Report on the ascent of the team from Irkutsk to the NW peak of Erydag, 3887 m, via the center of the NW bastion (S. Voronin, 2001)

Irkutsk, 2010, Ascent Details

1. Location: Eastern Caucasus, Dagestan Mountains, Chekhychay River valley. Classification table section: 2.2.
2. Peak: Erydag NW, 3887 m, route via the center of the NW bastion (S. Voronin, 2001), route #48b.
3. Difficulty category: 6B.
4. Route type: Rock climbing.
5. Wall height: 1050 m. Route length: 1300 m. Length of sections by difficulty category: V - 405 m, VI - 540 m. Average slope: Bastion - 80°, wall section - 75°, entire route - 60°.
6. Pitons left on the route: 5 (3 anchor, 2 chock stones). Pitons used: anchor - 134/15, chock stones - 47/13. Drill screws used: stationary - 11/6, removable - 14/8 (mostly in old holes, including 1 for hanging a hammock on the 2nd night), + about 45 points on skyhooks and fiffies.