Description

of the route to the summit 4670 m (along the south-eastern ridge)

The summit 4670 m is located in the spur of the Zaalaysky ridge, where the peak Sverdlova is situated. North of the peak Sverdlova, the spur bifurcates into two ridges:

• One initially goes northwest, then turns northeast.
• The other, shorter one, goes immediately northeast.

The summit 4670 m is located in it.

The route begins from the "3800" camp, located in the upper reaches of the Kок-Kyik valley, crosses an old moraine and approaches the ridge of the summit 4670 m. The azimuth of the summit from the "3800" camp is 315°. This segment of the path takes 30 minutes. The height of the ridge foot is 3920 m. Before starting the ascent along the ridge, it is necessary to cross the left constituent (orographically) of the Kок-Kyik river, which is fed by the snow-ice slopes of the peak Sverdlova.

The ascent along the ridge, which has a south-southeast direction, begins along a grassy slope. Approximately 45 minutes into the ascent, at an altitude of 4100 m, the grassy slope ends, and a stony scree begins. Along the stony scree, the route goes directly along the ridge to the first rocks (height — 4250 m), which are easily bypassed on the left along the scree without losing height.

Further:

• After 25 minutes, a second rock outcrop is encountered, more powerful (height around 4350 m). It is climbed directly head-on with variable protection. Bypassing the rocks is associated with a significant loss of height.
• Approximately after the same time interval, a third rock outcrop is encountered (height approx. 4450 m). Climbing it head-on is associated with great difficulties, so it is bypassed on the left along the rocks via an easier path with alternating protection.

Further, the route continues along the snow to the very summit. Near the summit, a rocky sentinel is encountered (height 4600 m), which drops steeply on the left with walls, and on the right continues with a snow cornice, which is traversed with protection. After the snow cornice, the summit with a small rocky outcrop is reached in 10 minutes. Height — 4670 m.

The path from the "3800" camp to the summit takes 5–6 hours. The descent from the summit to the "3800" camp along the ascent path takes 2–3 hours. The group rated the route as 1B category of difficulty.