9. Helmet via the western wall to the northern ridge, route 46 cat. dif., Fig. 4.

From the base camp, ascend along the Siam at first along the moraines, and then, turning right, reach the Big Siam glacier. Leaving the peaks to the right:

• Medvezhiy Zamok (Bear Castle)
• Shlem (Helmet) approach the western wall of the northern ridge of the peak. The approach from the base camp to the peak takes 4 hours. There are camping sites on the moraine. The characteristic color of the wall of the northern ridge of the peak is yellow-green. Three inclined veins run along the wall from top right to left:
• The right vein leads to the highest visible part of the wall from below,
• The middle vein is in the center,
• The left vein leads to the rocky gate on the ridge.

56. Yakum from the southwest, route 2A cat. diff., fig. 29.

From the bivouac, ascend via the left couloir in the direction of the summit. Then turn right onto the slope towards the saddle between the gendarmes to the left of the Yakum pass. There may be snow on the slope. From the saddle, move up the grassy slope, bypassing individual rock outcrops, in the direction of the uppermost saddle in the second ridge. From the saddle, exit left under the wall, before reaching the couloir that descends steeply from the ridge. Ascend 40 m of steep rocks with piton belay to reach the couloir. Then continue up the couloir to the black rocks, from where follow the ledges to the ridge. Cairn. Fig. 29. Continue to the summit along the broken ridge with three gendarmes. Descend from the first gendarme 5–6 m down a sheer wall. The remaining gendarmes are traversed with alternating belay. Reach the summit via a broad and gentle ridge. Descend from the summit to the west — 1B cat. diff. (route 55). The ascent takes 4–5 hours.

PASSPORT

1. Rock climbing category.
2. Pamir-Alay, Gissar Range, Tagrich valley.
3. Peak 4200 — southeast wall.
4. Difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route elevation gain — 650 m, wall section — 620 m. Route length — 776 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 664 m. Average steepness of main sections — 85°. Length of sections with 6 difficulty category — 317 m.

Passport

I. Rock class 2. Pamir-Alay, Gissarsky ridge 3. Peak "4200" along the center of the Southeast wall 4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, variant 5. Height difference: 630 m, length — 965 m. Length of sections: 5 category of difficulty – 385 m, 6 category of difficulty – 250 m. Average steepness of the main part — 85° (3570–4130), including 6 category of difficulty: 95° (3835–3900), (3915–3935); 97° (3945–3965); 93° (3975–4075) 6. Pitons hammered:

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Rock climbing category
2. Pamir-Alay, Hissar Range, Tagrich valley
3. Peak "4200", via the Southeast wall
4. Proposed category 5B, first ascent
5. Route elevation gain: 650 m, wall section: 540 m Route length: 775 m, wall section: 565 m. Length of 5–6 category sections: 485 m (6 category – 215 m). Average steepness of the wall section: 83°
6. Pitons driven: | Rock pitons | Bolt pitons | Nuts | | :------- | :--------- | :------- |

V. ADAMTASH, 4A, via the Eastern Ridge (V. Korotkov's route, 68)

From the Big Alaudin Lakes, follow the trail towards the Mutny Lakes until the turn to the Adamtash Pass. Go around the spur (on the right or left) and approach a characteristic white wall in the lower part of the spur above a large green shoulder. The landmark is a waterfall to the right. Here is the 1st control point. Put on climbing shoes and tie in here. R0–R1: 40 m at 70°, moderately difficult rock with good holds. Then enter a chimney (7–8 m) and continue to a black wall; bypass it and reach a ledge. Alternate belay. R1–R2: 100 m at 45°, moderately difficult rock. Alternate belay. R2–R3: 120 m at 30–40° scree, exit below a wall. Simultaneous movement. R3–R4: An internal corner (40 m at 70°) with loose rocks. Then move 10 m straight up and then 5 m right along a ledge, followed by 10 m left and up a slab. The landmark to the left is a grey wall. Continue 40 m right and up at 80°, then 80 m up ledges at 60°, and 40 m of difficult climbing at 85–90° with piton protection. R4–R5: Traverse left (30 m) and 50 m along the left side of the spur. The rocks are sharp with few cracks. Exit onto a saddle via a path of II cat. diff. R5–R6: Traverse left towards the visible col before the wall of the South-Eastern Ridge. Alternate belay. Then 40 m along a smoothed slab. Exit onto the ridge via scree (snow in June). 40 m. Cross over to the South-West slope. R6–R7: 200 m at 30–40° along scree ledges towards the rusty-red rocks on the left side of the wall. Simultaneous movement. R7–R8: Easy climbing on moderately difficult rocks (250 m at 40°). Alternate belay.

PASSPORT

I. Technical Class 2. Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan ridge 3. Pik Adamtash, 4700 m, via N. slope of E. ridge 4. Category 5B, third ascent 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 630 m length 980 m length of sections with category 5-6 difficulty 380 m average steepness of the main part of the route 75 °

To the Classification Commission under the USSR Alpine Federation and the USSR Central Sports Club, Moscow.

Description

Traverse of the Kulikalon Wall (v. Adamtash – p. Promezhutochny – East Mirali – Main Mirali – Main Maria – Uzlovaya Maria – West Maria – v. Bezymyannaya – p. 4300 – v. Aurondag – v. Zierat) with ascent to v. Adamtash via the Eastern Edge. Approximately 50 km of technical terrain. Fann Mountains, Pamir-Alai, 1968.

1. Data on Traverse Participants

The traverse of the Kulikalon Wall was completed by the LOS SDSO "Burevestnik" team consisting of: Traverse leader: Vadim Aleksandrovich Korotkov, born 1940, CMS, engaged in mountaineering since 1959. Traverse participants:

V. Alaudin, 2A, via South-West couloir

Alaudin Pass (3730 m) Descent from the summit via 2A cat. diff.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area, ridge — Pamir-Alai, spurs of the Kollektor Ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. "Novichok" 4000 m, NE ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category — 2A category
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty categories, average steepness
6. Number of pitons hammered for belaying — 8 rock pitons
7. Number of walking hours — 7 hours
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics —
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualification