2. Khodzha Lokan (Dream) via the Eastern Wall, category 5A, fig. 2

From the bivouac on the left moraine of the Eastern Lednik Beloy Piramidy glacier, descend to the Kadam-Tash stream. Then, ascend the talus to the glacier located under the eastern wall of the peak. Fig. 2. Cross the glacier plateau, passing the bergschrund, to reach the Y-shaped couloir. Ascend the icy couloir along the rocks, then traverse the couloir leftwards and upwards, and continue up the left branch of the Y-shaped couloir to the wall, following the ice and snow to the end of the couloir. The exit from the couloir onto a narrow ledge via the wall is complex; then proceed left along the ledge and upwards through the rocks via a gully onto a wide, inclined ledge. The ledge has a convenient area for setting up a tent. Move right along the ledge, then ascend the icy couloir — the ice is glacial. Protection is provided by pitons. The couloir leads to a ridge (a fragment separated from the main wall). A "finger" is visible on the left. From here, ascend a chimney and continue up the rocks to an ice grotto. Traverse along a ledge, ascend a short wall, and then left and upwards along a narrow (up to 40 cm), inclined ledge for 8–10 m. Challenging! The inclination of the ledge increases leftwards up to 45°. Protection is provided by pitons. Ascend via an internal corner; the rocks are friable. Traverse right and upwards, then continue up the rocks to a convenient overnight platform. From the platform, ascend a complex wall; higher up, the slope eases, and snow may be present. Ascend the friable rocks to reach a steep snow slope. It drops away to the left. The steepness increases. Bypass a 5 m high rock wall on the right and ascend to the summit via a steep snow-and-ice ridge.

Photo 15. View of the second tier bastion from R16. Recommended ascent route:

• Photo 15. View of the second tier bastion from R16
• Photo 16. Section R17–R18. Rope descent. Photo 17. Entering the chimney R18–R19. Photo 18. Passing the chimney R19–R22.

Description

OF THE ASCENT ROUTE TO THE SUMMIT OF KHODZHA-LOKAN /"MECHTA", 4767/ VIA THE SOUTH-EAST RIDGE. Dushanbe 1962 If you fly from Dushanbe to Moscow and the plane goes directly north, not through the Baysun pass, you can see this mountain. Soon after takeoff, the southern folds of the Hissar range appear below. The Varzob River is under the plane. Dark gray rocks line the stream's banks. Higher up, mountains rise. Among the rocks, patches of snow appear. Ice... To the left, a tall, slender mountain on an icy pedestal emerges. Like the surrounding lower peaks, it is mostly dark gray, but stands out from its neighbors with its elegance and the fact that a huge bluish snow-ice "cushion" is "hanging" on its northeastern side, clinging to its "tip". Climbers call this mountain Mechta... In 1897, while traveling through the Pamir-Alay and reaching the upper reaches of the Khanaka River, Academician LIPSKY V.I. saw this peak and made the following note: "From the pass ... a high snowy ridge was visible, much higher than the one we were on... The main peak of this ridge, significantly rising above the ridge, is conical..., sharply distinguished by its height". (LIPSKY V.I. "Mountain Bukhara. Results of three years of travel in Central Asia in 1897-1899." St. Petersburg, 1902, part 1, p. 126). This area began to attract the attention of mountaineers as the alpinism exploration of the Pamir-Alay began, particularly after the establishment of the Varzob alpine camp. In June 1953, during one of the reconnaissance hikes, a group from the alpine camp ascended to the summit of Bakhubi (Udal'naya-Tadj.), located on the watershed of the Sioma and Maykhura rivers. A participant in this ascent, now an alpinism instructor A.G. SHUKUROV, recounts that, looking at the panorama that opened up from the summit, with a beautiful pyramid in the center, the group leader A.A. KUZNETSOV exclaimed, "This is a dream!"

Report

on the ascent of the regional council's alpine team to Khodja Lokan for the championship of the Central Council

Time	Section	Steepness	Length	Character of the section	Category/Complexity	Objective condition	Belay means	Notes
9:10–10:30	R0–R1	40°	350 m	scree shelves, gently sloping smoothed rocks, small walls, snow-ice couloir	3	good	ledges, pitons (4)
10:30–11:30	R1–R2	60°	120–150 m	walls with shelves	4	good	pitons (6), free climbing, control, Tur-1
11:50–12:30	R2–R3	80°	15 m	smooth wall with a slot at the top	5Б	good	pitons (2), pitons

Ascent Passport

1. ASCENT CLASS: technical
2. ASCENT AREA, RANGE: Pamir-Alay, Gissar Range
3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: Khodzha Lokan (4767 m) via the Western part of the South face
4. DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: approximately VI category of difficulty
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS:
   • ELEVATION GAIN: 1170 m
   • LENGTH OF COMPLEX SECTIONS:
     • III — 50 m
     • IV — 250 m

133

Ascent to the peak Hyrс from Vorobьиный Pass – Cat. 3A

The ascent to the summit is done from the "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac located below the peak Bivaчная. From the camp, one should go up along the stream flowing from the cirque of the peaks Khamsai, Ular, Hyrс, and Kulay Dzhovanon, to the old lateral moraine of the Ular glacier. From the moraine, ascend the snowfield (25–30°) to the Ular glacier plateau, from which exit to Vorobьиный Pass. Hyrс is a strongly serrated ridge with large differences in altitude. It is composed mainly of gray granites. The main summit is located in the middle, towering above the others. The ridge is sharp with sheer walls, stretched in the meridional direction. The ascent to the ridge begins from Vorobьиный Pass along the eastern snowy slope (25–30°) of the spur extending from the main ridge to the pass. It is better to enter the spur from the pass slightly to the left. From the snowy slope, exit onto the rocky spur (good holds, 25–30°) and ascend directly upwards for 120 m to the ridge with a snowy cornice overhanging to the west. Belaying is done through ledges. Further movement occurs along the ridge to the left towards the south. After passing the cornice, go left of the ridge, first on snow for 60 m, then ascend a 6 m high rock wall. Here, piton belaying is organized. From here, go 20 m on snow, and then on rocks with a gradient of 30–35° with good ledges and holds to exit below a 5 m long snowy cornice hanging from the ridge to the left (east) with a small overhang. The cornice is bypassed on the left under overhanging icicles. Belaying is done through ledges. Further, go on snow with alternate belaying (steep, wet snow — 180 m) to a gendarme with a flat top. The gendarme is ascended head-on. Belaying is done through ledges. After the gendarme, exit onto a snowy col, leaving a small sharp gendarme to the right.

Chayka Peak from the South

Description of the ascent via the route category 3B I. Approaches The approaches are similar to those to the peaks Kuba, Grimaou, and Yastreb. II. Ascent From the fork in the upper valley, the path goes left (in the direction of travel) and leads to the eastern ridge. The peak descends here with a wide rocky-snowy massif, featuring a 70-meter wall in its lower part. This wall is ascended directly from the ridge with piton belays (4 pitons). The rocks are of medium difficulty. The ascent continues on the right (in the direction of travel) side of the massif over easy to medium-difficulty rocks, leading to the ridge of the peak. The summit is not clearly defined; it is one of the highest craggy peaks on the ridge. The path then follows the ridge for 5×60 m. The rocks are of medium difficulty, with belays using rock features and occasional pitons (4 pitons). The descent to the saddle between Chayka and Yastreb is via one of the gullies, with rope installations (3×40 m). The further descent into the valley is over steep scree.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical ascent
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Gissar Ridge
3. Peak — proposed name — CHELYABINSK peak 4363.6 m
4. Ascent route — via the western edge Proposed category — 4B
5. Height difference — 700 m Length of complex sections — 170 m. Average steepness — 40°
6. Pitons driven: safety — 50, for creating ITO — 0, rock — -50, ice — 0, bolt — 0

REPORT

on the ascent of Pik Chetyrekh. Pik Chetyrekh is located in the area of Tajikskiye Igizaki. The height of the summit, which stands out from the ridge between Pik Oktyabr and Pik Sieh, is 4200 m. To the north, towards the Maykhura River, the entire ridge drops off with a wall having a height difference of 400 (near Pik Oktyabr) to 700–800 m (near Pik Sieh). To the south, the slopes are more gentle and fragmented, and the length of rock routes does not exceed 300 m. The area began to be explored by climbers from DCCO "Khosilot" in 1962. From the north, under the wall, climbers were present in 1965–1966. In 1969, during the ascent of Pik Oktyabr on November 7, the route for the ascent was planned. On October 1, 1971, the sports group along with observers left the city and spent the night on the bank of the Maykhura River at the entrance to the gorge. On October 2, they made their way under the glacier, where the observation group remained. The approach to this place—a large green meadow—takes 1.5 hours, following the right side of the stream (there is a trail). The planned ascent route went along the main counterfort of the northern wall of Pik Chetyrekh, bordering on the right a bowl-shaped glacier and the glacier fall under the wall (see photo). The approaches to the start of the counterfort were made:

• initially across the "sheep's foreheads",
• then down to the counterfort via moraine and a gentle glacier,

Shirokaya from the East

Description of the ascent via the 3B category difficulty route.

I. Approaches

The approaches are similar to those for all the peaks of the Tajik Igizaks.

II. Ascent

The ascent begins from the col between Shirokaya and Malyshka peaks. The journey from the camp on the Sioma River to the col takes 2.5–3 hours. The ascent to the ridge is via a wide crevice, not visible from the col, but discernible to the right of it: – From the col, straight and to the right (1×60 m) along moderately difficult rocks (4 pitons). We enter the crevice and proceed along easy rocks (2×60 m) with protection via protrusions to its upper part. – Up the wall to the left (1×30 m) along moderately difficult rocks (2 pitons) to reach the start of the ridge route. – The ridge is traversed with protection via protrusions.