Activity Feed
Route Description: с пер. Далар-Сакен
Ascent to Sanen-Bashi (3500 m) from Sanen-Dalar pass, category 2B difficulty, with route description and recommendations for climbers.
Saken-Bashi
- Ascent to the summit of Saken-Bashi (3500 m) from Saken-Dalar Pass — Category 2A difficulty. From Uzunkol Alpine Camp, follow the right bank of the Myrdy River to the beginning of the Myrdy Glacier moraine. Follow the trail and grassy slopes to a large terrace. The bivouac site is "Myrdy Nochevki". 3 hours from the camp. From the bivouac, go up to the right under the scree below the slopes of Kara-Bashi to the Myrdy Glacier. Traverse the middle part of the glacier and then follow the snowy slopes to Myrdy Pass. (Bypass the bergschrund on the left under the walls of Kirpich Peak). 1.5-2 hours from the bivouac. From the pass, traverse the plateau and a large rock fall above Saken-Dalar Pass. Follow the ledges on the left, descend to the snowy ridge of the pass, and then bypass (on the left) a separate rock — to a snowfield leading to the beginning of the ascent to the summit ridge. Follow the first left couloir (belay!):
- stay on the left side;
- 60 m, 45°;
- exit to the ridge (belay!). From here, follow the ridge and a wide slab (control cairn here) (belay!). Then follow a steep (belay!) snowfield, 45° — 40 m ascent to a simple rocky ridge. After a small depression in the ridge — ascent to the pre-summit ridge. Traverse heavily broken rocks (belay!) — to the summit. 5 hours from Saken-Dalar Pass.
Route Description: Ю стене
Report on the first ascent of the "Podkustovnyy Vypolzzen" route, category 5B, via the South Face of Begemot peak (1600 m) in the Altai Republic.
Report
on the first ascent route
To the summit of Begemot
1600 m Altai Republic, Shirlak waterfall area
Route "Podkustovnyy vypolzzen'"
via the southern wall proposed 5B cat. diff. (rock) April 21, 2024
Route Description: Через жандарм Узловой
Ascent report on the Thousandth Anniversary of Yaroslavl peak via the 2A category complexity route through the Jendarme Узловой.
REPORT
ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT 1000-летия Ярославля VIA THE ROUTE THROUGH Жандарм Узловой, CATEGORY 2A, BY THE TRAINING DEPARTMENT OF A/C «ПОЛИТЕХНИК» UNDER THE GUIDANCE OF SOBOLEV A.A. ON AUGUST 4, 2022.
I. ASCENT DETAILS
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Sobolev Alexey Alexandrovich, 1st sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Abukhaniy Sabrina Mohammadovna, 3rd sports rank; Volobueva Anastasia Nikolaevna, 3rd sports rank; Kazakov Viktor Anatolyevich, 3rd sports rank; Romanov James Borisovich, 3rd sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Molodozhen V.A. MS |
| 1.4 | Organization | A/C «Polytechnic» St. Petersburg |
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
Ascent to the summit of Bolshoy Nakhar via the center of the northwest wall, category 6B, climbed by the team of the Dagestan Republican Search and Rescue Service in 1997.
Climbing Passport
- Rock climbing category.
- Region 2.3, Caucasus, from Nakhar pass to Chipperazau pass.
- Nakhar Bolshoy, 3784 m, point 90, V. Kovtun's route 1977 via the center of the NW wall, rock climbing route.
- 6B complexity category, second ascent.
- Route characteristics: height difference – 800 m, wall height difference – 650 m (from 2990 m to 3640 m), average wall slope – 70°, route length – 1300 m, wall section length – 800 m, section lengths: 1 – 60 m, 2 – 150 m, 3 – 305 m, 4 – 110 m, 5 m, 5 – 620 m (including 25 m of artificial climbing), 6 – 55 m (including 50 m of artificial climbing), total artificial climbing – 75 m, with complexity: A1 – 15 m, A2 – 55 m, A3 – 5 m.
- Equipment used on the route:
- bolt hammers – 41/5, including 22 on stations
- rock pitons – 158/42 – 28
- chocks – 60/20 – 8
Route Description: С гребню
Report on the first ascent of the route of 4A category of complexity to the top of Kara-Jash via the northern ridge in the Western Caucasus.
Karajash Peak (3171) Route: via the northern ridge Complexity category: 4A cat. (Combined) Leader: V. Babkin Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Orlenok ravine, mountain range (ridge) Karajash Section in KMGV – 2.1. E-mail – ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU
Report
On the first ascent of the mountaineering route to the Karajash peak (3171) "Via the northern ridge 4A cat. (combined)".
Route Description: В гребню с пер. Птыш
Ascent to the summit Main Ptysh via the Eastern Edge, difficulty category 3B, with recommendations and description of belay and necessary equipment.
2. Ascent to the summit Glavny Ptysh (3520 m) along the eastern edge — cat. diff. 3B (Fig. 39)
Bivouac on the Ptyshsky pass. From the pass, 30 m to the right along the shelves to a 3-meter wall and along it to the left and upwards to the jagged ridge composed of inclined slabs (piton protection!). Further directly along the ridge to the steepest part of the ascent (bypassing to the south is not recommended). At the steep part of the ascent:
- exit to the left to the internal corner,
- along it upwards 15–18 m (thorough piton protection!)
- exit to the shoulder. From the shoulder:
- upwards on the right side of the wide couloir (rockfall!)
- to the summit. From the pass 6–7 hours.
Route Description: 3 гребню
Ascent of Zakharov N. N. group to Zubatyi (Zub) Dragon peak (2050 m) in Ergaki mountain range along the ridge, category 2A, first ascent on February 13, 1997.
PASSPORT
- Rock class.
- Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
- Pik Zub Dragona, 2050 m, 3rd ridge.
- Proposed 2A category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Route characteristics: height difference 300 m, length 750 m, average slope 23°.
- Pitons driven: chocks 7, pitons 0.
- Climbing hours 4, days 1.
Route Description: Ю стороне В кф.
Report on the first ascent of the route of category 2B complexity via the eastern counterforce to the summit of Pik Ratsek in the Kyrgyz Range of Tian Shan.
Report
On the first ascent to the summit of Pik Ratzek via the eastern counterfort, route 2B category, by the Ak-Sai Travel team from 1.10.2023 to 1.10.2023.
I. Climbing Passport
| №№ p.p. | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader, date of birth | Khomenyuk Mikhail Yuryevich, 1st sports rank, date of birth: January 5, 1973. |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants, date of birth | Ignashev Ilya Sergeyevich, 3rd sports rank, date of birth: November 9, 1980. |
| 1.3 | Full name of coach | Grekov Dmitry Mikhailovich |
Route Description: ЮВкф.
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Latsа (3996 m) via the southeast counterforce, difficulty category 4B, climbed by a group of climbers in 1980.
Ascent Passport
- ASCENT CLASS — rock
- ASCENT AREA — Main Caucasus Range between GARVASH and DZHANTUGAN passes
- PEAK, ROUTE — LATZGA (3996 m) via south-eastern counterfort
- EXPECTED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 4B
- ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS — rock, via counterfort, height difference — 455 m, average steepness 75°
- NUMBER OF PITS HAMMERED — 22 rock anchors, for belay
- NUMBER OF CLIMBING HOURS — from the start of the route to the summit 12.5 h
- NUMBER OF OVERNIGHT STAYS — no comfortable places on the route, one tent can be set up at I and II control sections
- ASCENT LEADER: Novikov S.A. — Pr
Route Description: ЮВ ребру
Report on the first ascent to Gorelaya peak via the South-East Edge, category 1B, Kamchatka Krai.
Report
on the first ascent to the summit Gorelaya, 1237 m, Kamchatka Krai, Elizovsky District, Ganal Range via the South-Eastern edge route, category 1B (winter, combined) by the team of Tomsk Alpine Federation and Kamchatka Mountain School on February 27, 2022 2022
I. Ascent Passport
| No. | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Temerev Ivan Mikhailovich, Master of Sports |