Saken-Bashi

1. Ascent to the summit of Saken-Bashi (3500 m) from Saken-Dalar Pass — Category 2A difficulty.

From Uzunkol Alpine Camp, follow the right bank of the Myrdy River to the beginning of the Myrdy Glacier moraine. Follow the trail and grassy slopes to a large terrace. The bivouac site is "Myrdy Nochevki". 3 hours from the camp.

From the bivouac, go up to the right under the scree below the slopes of Kara-Bashi to the Myrdy Glacier. Traverse the middle part of the glacier and then follow the snowy slopes to Myrdy Pass. (Bypass the bergschrund on the left under the walls of Kirpich Peak). 1.5-2 hours from the bivouac.

From the pass, traverse the plateau and a large rock fall above Saken-Dalar Pass. Follow the ledges on the left, descend to the snowy ridge of the pass, and then bypass (on the left) a separate rock — to a snowfield leading to the beginning of the ascent to the summit ridge. Follow the first left couloir (belay!):

• stay on the left side;
• 60 m, 45°;
• exit to the ridge (belay!).

From here, follow the ridge and a wide slab (control cairn here) (belay!).

Then follow a steep (belay!) snowfield, 45° — 40 m ascent to a simple rocky ridge. After a small depression in the ridge — ascent to the pre-summit ridge. Traverse heavily broken rocks (belay!) — to the summit. 5 hours from Saken-Dalar Pass.

Descend from the summit down towards the snowy saddle. On the right side of solid, easy rocks, descend to the saddle. Below the saddle, on the rocks — a control cairn.

Descend down, bypassing the buttress, back to the point of exit to the routes, then through the pass to the bivouac.

From the summit to the bivouac — 2 hours.

The route was traversed by a group of instructors — members — under the guidance of Rototaev B.N. in 1961 B.N.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants in the group — 2 training units.
2. Initial bivouac — "Myrdy Nochevki".
3. Departure time from bivouac — 5:00.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: