76. Aylama via the West Ridge (combined route, I. Marra, category 4B difficulty, fig. 5, 15, 17). From the upper plateau of Koruldashi Glacier (m. 72), approach the wide snowy southern slope of the saddle between Aylama Malaya peak and the Big Sharp Gendarme of Aylama's West Ridge. From the plateau, cross the bergschrund on the left side of the steep wide snowy slope, 400–500 m up, to the right of the rocks of the East Ridge of Aylama Malaya peak. Having overcome the second bergschrund or bypassed it on the left via the rocks, 600–700 m up and to the right, towards the couloir on the left side of the Big Gendarme. Follow the winding couloir, known as the "Zmeika" (Snake) couloir, 150–200 m up, to

Description of the First Ascent Route

To the summit of Peak Айлама (Ailama) via the Western spur of the South wall, climbed on July 20-25, 1966, by a team from the Kuibyshev Regional Council of the "Trud" Sports Society. Ailama is located in the Main Caucasus Range. To the west of the summit, beyond the Unamusso pass ("Бессовестный" or "Shameless"), lies Peak Нуам-Куам (Nuam-Kuam), with a ridge connecting it to the summit of Восточная Шхара (Eastern Shkhara) via peaks 4250 m and 4100 m. Beyond the so-called "saw" of Ailama, the ridge turns south towards the summit of Цурунгал (Tsurungal), and then eastwards through peaks Черная Незнакомка (Black Stranger, пик Алеши Джапаридзе or Aliocha Djaparidze Peak) and Белая Незнакомка (White Stranger) to the Шерри–Вцек (Sherri-Vtsek) pass. The Ailama ridge stretches for a considerable distance. The western ridge has a steepness of up to 55° in its lower half and is characterized by a system of snow and ice undulations with steepness ranging from 25° to 75° in its upper part. The eastern ridge of the summit is primarily rocky and is known as the "Pила Айламы" (Ailama Saw), indicating its highly serrated nature. Along the entire length of the massif's ridge, steep walls with significant relative heights drop to the north and south; those to the north are mostly snow and ice, while those to the south are more rocky. Due to the remoteness of this mountain region from permanent alpine camps, until 1965, only a few sports groups, always consisting of high-class climbers, ascended Ailama. Most of these groups followed the ridge of the massif, undertaking extensive traverses of the crest.

ASCENT ON AILAMA VIA THE SOUTH FACE

Report

of the combined team of climbers from the A. Japaridze Georgian Alpine Club, Tbilisi, 1965
THE AILAMA MASSIF FROM THE SOUTH.

Introduction

The Ailama massif stretches in a latitudinal direction. To the west, Ailama is adjacent to the peaks of Nuamkuam and the Bezengi Wall, separated from Ailama by a low, heavily dissected ridge with numerous gendarmes and deep gaps. The Main Caucasian Range runs south from Ailama to the peak of Tsurungal and further to the Ardon River gorge, where the Digor chain continues.

Description of the Ascent Route to the Summit of AYILAMA via the South Face

The summit of AYILAMA (4537 m) is located in the MAIN CAUCASUS RANGE between the peaks of NUAM-KUAM (4283 m) to the west and TSURUNGAL (4342 m) to the east. The lower, base part of the summit is composed of heavily weathered schist rocks. The upper part rises as inaccessible vertical bastions made of light gray granite. The grandiose South Face of AYILAMA towers directly above the "AYILAMA" alpine camp. The path from the "AYILAMA" alpine camp goes along a trail on the right (orographic) bank of the Koruldashi River, then the trail crosses to the left (orographic) bank and proceeds along an old moraine overgrown with forest. This moraine leads to a small glacier, covered with snow and rocks, under the South Face of AYILAMA. To the left lies the icefall of the Koruldashi Glacier. In the lower part of the face, three counterforts are clearly visible, separated by couloirs.

Climbing Passport

1. Snow and ice class.
2. Central Caucasus, Dykh-Su valley.
3. Peak Aylama via the center of the North face.
4. Proposed category: 5B, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 1475 m, route length — 2333 m. Average steepness of main sections — 53°. Including 6th category sections up to 95° — 27 m.
6. Pitons driven: rock — 5 bolt hangers — 3

74. Aylama via the II bastion of the South Face (a combined route, Sh. Margiani, 5B cat., fig. 5, 15, 16). From the platform at the top of the Left Rib (point 72):

• 150 m up a steep snow-ice slope to the bergschrund;
• after crossing the bergschrund, ascend 40 m up a steep snow-ice slope to the rocks on the right side of the III bastion;
• from here, 40 m across simple rocks. Up to the wall. 30 m up difficult rocks of the wall with a crack onto a ledge. Then directly up 8–10 m across rocks of medium difficulty, then 12 m up the wall to a small platform, from where there is a 40 m ascent up rocks of medium difficulty to a platform under a large boulder. From the platform on the Left Rib, it takes 3–4 hours.

73. Aylama via the III Bastion of the South Face (combined route, Sh. Margiani, 5B cat. dif., fig. 5, 15, 16). From the ledge at the top of the Left Edge (point 72):

• 150 m up a steep snow-ice slope.
• Having overcome or bypassed the bergschrund via difficult rocks on the left, ascend 80–100 m up a steep snow-ice couloir along the rocks on the right side of the III Bastion.
• Then turn left and up:
  • 40 m via difficult rocks of the wall,
  • then 40 m via moderately difficult rocks.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

19

1. Climbing category — rock climbing
2. Climbing area, ridge — Main Caucasian Ridge from Kitlod pass to Gezevtsеg pass.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — traverse of Belaya Neznakomka (4200) — Chyornaya Neznakomka (4100) with ascent to the South Gendarme of Belaya Neznakomka via the southeast wall.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference 600–700 m; b) average steepness — 60°
6. Pitons hammered: — for belay, for intermediate rock anchors: 35 — ice screws: 6

41. Be­laia Ne­zna­kom­ka via the South­west Ridge of the Main Ridge’s (MR) Junction Pillar (combined route, Sh. Dadesh­keliani, 4A cat. dif., fig. 5, 8). From the “Zes­ho” al­plager down along the road. Past the second bridge, turn right into the first right lateral gorge. Having passed the farm, along the trail, and then along the grassy talus, reach the moraine areas at the upper (left) part of the terminal left-bank moraine of the Neznakomka Glacier. Initial bivouac. 2–2.5 hours from the “Zesho” alplager. From the Moraine areas (departure at 3–4 am), ascend 150–200 m traversing right along the snow-firn slope of the Black Neznakomka’s Main couloir. Then traverse up and right along the ice-snow slope left of the central “ram’s foreheads” of the gorge and the ice falls of the glacier lying above them until you reach the left side of

83. Va­khus­hti via South­east ridge (com­bi­ned route, cate­gory 2A, fig. 5; 18). At the first stream (m. 89) turn right and ascend via the trail on its right bank to a snowfield. From the snowfield, ascend via scree and easy bro­ken rocks on the south­east slopes of the South­east ridge to the ridge of Vakhushti peak, to the left and above its grassy slopes. From here, follow the gen­tle, wide, scree South­east ridge to a nar­row ridge, which is avoided via a 30-meter ledge on the right (pro­tec­tion). Be­hind it, as­cend via steep, easy, bro­ken rocks to the south­east ridge (pro­tec­tion). Fur­ther, 30 m via steep, easy, bro­ken rocks on the left side of the south­east