
- Belaia Neznakomka via the Southwest Ridge of the Main Ridge’s (MR) Junction Pillar (combined route, Sh. Dadeshkeliani, 4A cat. dif., fig. 5, 8).
From the “Zesho” alplager down along the road. Past the second bridge, turn right into the first right lateral gorge. Having passed the farm, along the trail, and then along the grassy talus, reach the moraine areas at the upper (left) part of the terminal left-bank moraine of the Neznakomka Glacier. Initial bivouac. 2–2.5 hours from the “Zesho” alplager.
From the Moraine areas (departure at 3–4 am), ascend 150–200 m traversing right along the snow-firn slope of the Black Neznakomka’s Main couloir. Then traverse up and right along the ice-snow slope left of the central “ram’s foreheads” of the gorge and the ice falls of the glacier lying above them until you reach the left side of the upper plateau of the Neznakomka Glacier. Along the left side of the broken glacier, along the southern slopes of the MR, approach the rock island on the right side of the South Face of the MR’s Junction Pillar. 4–6 hours from the initial bivouac.
Having overcome the bergschrund left of the island, make a traverse above it to the left. Along the ice-snow slope (avalanches, stones), approach the Southwest Ridge of the Junction Pillar.
From here, 120–150 m ascent up the moderately difficult rocks (“live” stones):
- left side of the ridge,
- then right side of the ridge to a ledge.
From the ledge:
- left through a narrow ice couloir (stones),
- then 80 m along the rocks of above-moderate difficulty with a 30-meter difficult wall — ascent to the area on the Southwest Ridge above the Lower Rock Belt.
Bivouac on the area. 3–5 hours from the bergschrund.
From the area:
- along the 40-meter snow ridge,
- further 300–340 m up the steep, moderately difficult rocks with short walls of above-moderate difficulty of the Southwest Ridge (“live” stones) to the area under the summit spire of the Junction Pillar.
Bivouac on the area. 8–10 hours from the initial bivouac.
From the area, along the steep ice-snow slope, bypassing a large separate stone on the right, ascend 40 m under the wall. Along the rocks of above-moderate difficulty of the 60-meter wall, then along the 60-meter rocks of moderate difficulty and the 40-meter simple wide southwest ridge, ascend to the Junction Pillar. 2–3 hours from the bivouac on the South Ridge. Then see route 40.