- Aylama via the II bastion of the South Face (a combined route, Sh. Margiani, 5B cat., fig. 5, 15, 16).
From the platform at the top of the Left Rib (point 72):
- 150 m up a steep snow-ice slope to the bergschrund;
- after crossing the bergschrund, ascend 40 m up a steep snow-ice slope to the rocks on the right side of the III bastion;
- from here, 40 m across simple rocks.
Up to the wall. 30 m up difficult rocks of the wall with a crack onto a ledge. Then directly up 8–10 m across rocks of medium difficulty, then 12 m up the wall to a small platform, from where there is a 40 m ascent up rocks of medium difficulty to a platform under a large boulder. From the platform on the Left Rib, it takes 3–4 hours.
From the platform, 40 m up and left across a steep snow-ice slope under the rocky walls of the III bastion and across a 10-meter wall into a steep snow-ice couloir separating the III bastion from the II.
On the right side of the couloir:
- 40 m up,
- then 40 m left, cross the couloir (avalanches, falling rocks),
- ascend two walls 50 m up to the ridge of the Second bastion.
From here, 40 m up a steep snow-ice ridge. Then 80 m up and right across rocks of medium difficulty, in places difficult, to a platform below the 200-meter wall of the Second bastion. There is a bivouac on the platform. From the bivouac on the Left Rib of the South Face, it takes 8–10 hours.
From the platform (the key section):
- 30 m up a difficult corner (falling rocks, "live" rocks)
- 5 m across a difficult slab to the right
- 8–10 m up to a small ledge
- Across rocks of medium difficulty 12–15 m up to under the wall
- Up difficult rocks of the wall, which is destroyed in its upper part (these are "ladders")
- Then 10–15 m right under overhanging rocks
- Up a difficult, in places destroyed, wall 30 m up and left to a platform under the upper ascent of the Second bastion.
From the bivouac site, it takes 5–6 hours. From the platform, initially up and left along a difficult crack, then up a vertical corner. From the corner, traverse left to a ledge. On the left side of the ledge, up a difficult corner. By passing the overhanging rocks on the left, there is an 80 m ascent to the top of the 200-meter wall of the Second bastion. From here, 40 m up across rocks of medium difficulty on the ridge to a platform. There is a bivouac on the platform. From the previous bivouac, it takes 10–12 hours.
From the platform, 60 m up traversing across the right side of the ascent of the II bastion, then 30 m across difficult rocks of the couloir. Further:
- Across a rocky wall and a steep snow-ice slope turning into a steep snow-ice couloir, 80 m up to the crest of the Second bastion.
- Across simple and medium difficulty rocks of the crest with short walls, 80 m up to the top of the Second bastion.
- From the bastion, a 30 m rappel to a narrow snowy saddle and from it
