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73. Aylama via the III Bastion of the South Face (combined route, Sh. Margiani, 5B cat. dif., fig. 5, 15, 16).

From the ledge at the top of the Left Edge (point 72):

• 150 m up a steep snow-ice slope.

• Having overcome or bypassed the bergschrund via difficult rocks on the left, ascend 80–100 m up a steep snow-ice couloir along the rocks on the right side of the III Bastion.

• Then turn left and up:

  • 40 m via difficult rocks of the wall,
  • then 40 m via moderately difficult rocks.

• Use a 12–15-meter vertical corner to ascend to the ledge on the shoulder of the III Bastion.

From the area at the top of the Left Edge — 3–4 hours.

From the ledge, follow the ledges to approach the base of the main ascent of the Third Bastion.

Ascend 100–120 m straight up via difficult rocks of the wall (aid climbing, ladders).

Then, ascend via steep, heavily damaged rocks of the Third Bastion to a small ledge below the wall. Camp on the ledge.

From the bivouac on the Left Edge of the South Face — 9–11 hours.

From the ledge, ascend 200 m up via difficult and very difficult rocks of the vertical wall of the bastion (crux, aid climbing, ladders) to the next ledge. Camp.

From the previous bivouac — 10–12 hours.

From the ledge:

• 40 m up via a difficult rock wall,
• 12–15 m via moderately difficult rocks,
• a 15-meter difficult chimney and snow-ice slopes below the wall.

Ascend 20 m up and right via very difficult rocks of the wall (aid climbing, ladders) to the ledge at the top of the Third Bastion.

From the Bastion:

• via steep, wet, icy, difficult rocks,
• via a sharp snow-ice ridge (cornices),
• via damaged, icy rocks of moderate difficulty — exit to a ledge. Camp.

From the previous bivouac — 10–12 hours.

From here:

• via heavily damaged rocks and slabs,
• then via icy, steep, above moderately difficult rocks — a steep ascent to the Western Ridge.

Here, turn right and follow an easy, gentle snow (cornices) Western Ridge to reach the summit of Aylama. From the bivouac on the Third Bastion — 1.5–2 hours.