COMMITTEE FOR PHYSICAL CULTURE AND SPORTS UNDER THE COUNCIL OF MINISTERS OF THE UKRAINIAN SSR To the blessed memory of our friend, International Class Master of Sports of the USSR, Nikolai MASHCHENKO ASCENT TO THE NORTH PEAK OF USHBA VIA THE CENTER OF THE EAST FACE (report on the ascent) Kiev — 1971

I. Sporting Characteristics of the East Face of North Ushba

Ushba is located in close proximity to the Main Caucasian Range and is situated in a spur branching off from the range near Shchurovsky Peak. The western slopes of South Ushba and the eastern slopes of North Ushba are the most sheer and have considerable extent. The east face of North Ushba starts from the Chalaat Glacier. The approach to the face is quite complex and takes about 2 hours from the alpinist camp. The face is sunlit from 6:00 to 11:00.

COMMITTEE FOR PHYSICAL CULTURE AND SPORTS UNDER THE COUNCIL OF MINISTERS OF THE USSR Dedicated to the XXV Congress of the CPSU.

Ascent Report

On the ascent of the North peak of Ushba, 4695 m, via the North-East face; Central Caucasus; technically complex ascent category. COMPOSITION OF THE ASCENT GROUP:

1. MONOGAROV V.D., Master of Sport, "AVANGARD"
2. LAVRINENKO D.N., Master of Sport, "—"
3. VOLYNSKY V.A., Master of Sport, "—"
4. BERESNEV V.P., Candidate for Master of Sport, "—"
5. KLATAEVSKY V.I., Candidate for Master of Sport, "—"

1. Category of ice and snow ascents.
2. Central Caucasus.
3. North Ushba via NW wall.
4. Proposed route: 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 1600 m, length — 2300 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 1320 m. Average steepness: main sections — 58° (3800–4650 m), entire route — 49°.
6. Pitons driven: rock — 46, chocks — 18, ice screws — 49, snow anchors — 25.
7. Team's climbing hours: 25 days : 2
8. Overnight stops: 1st and 2nd bivouacs were dug out on a snow-ice slope.

Ascent Passport

1. Class — winter
2. Climbing area — Central Caucasus
3. Peak — Ushba N. 4694 m, via the Northwest wall
4. Category of difficulty — 6A
5. Height difference — 1017 m, length — 1700 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 1020 m, length of sections with 6th category of difficulty — 70 m, average steepness of the wall section of the route — 47°
6. Pitons driven: rock, chocks, ice screws, bolt pitons | 5 | 3 | 83 | 0 | | :-: | :-: | :--: | :-: | | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 |

Passport

I. Category — technical 2. Central Caucasus 3. Peak — Ushba North via N.W. wall (4694 m) Kolomyttsev V.G. route 4. 5B cat. diff. — 2nd ascent of the "Silver" route in 1982 5. Height difference: 1700 m, length 2400 m. Length of 5 cat. diff. sections — 1240 m. Average steepness of main sections: 55° (3750–4660 m) of the route 47° 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 26 закладок — 21

Ascent Passport

I. Winter ascent category 2. Central Caucasus 3. North Ushba, via the Northwest wall 4. Route 6A category of difficulty (route 181) 5. Elevation gain 1600 m, length — 2300 m Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 1320 m. Average steepness of main sections — 58° (3800–4650), route: 49° 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 26, chocks — 6, ice screws — 85 7. Team's travel time: 23 hours and days — 3

Passport

1. Class of winter ascents.
2. Central Caucasus.
3. North Ushba via northwest wall (Kolomyttsev V.G. route)
4. 6A difficulty category.
5. Height difference — 1600 m. Length 2300 m. Length of sections:

• 5–6 cat. diff. — 1320 m
• 6 cat. diff. — 840 m

Ascent Certificate

1. Class: winter
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Prielbrusye
3. Ushba North via Northwest wall
4. Category of difficulty: 6A
5. Route characteristics:
6. Elevation gain: 1700 m (by altimeter)
7. Route length: 2550 m
   • Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 1370 m
   • Average steepness: main part of the route — 56°, entire route (from bivouacs) — 48°

ASCENT TO NORTH USHBA VIA THE EASTERN WALL /"MIRROR"/ FROM CHALAAT GLACIER /Climbing Report/ Kiev — 1968 Ascent route via the "mirror" of the Eastern wall of N. Ushba.

1. Introduction

1. Brief Characteristics of the Ushba Massif

Ushba is located in close proximity to the Main Caucasian Ridge, branching off from it near Shchurovsky Peak. The Ushba massif features two sharp peaks separated by a shallow saddle. The north-eastern peak has an absolute height of 4695 m. A sharply descending and short ridge with a small peak, Gulba, extends from it.

Ascent Record

1. Region: Central Caucasus, Chegem valley, Adyr ridge, classified under KMGV as 2.4.1
2. Peak Chegem, 4461 m, ascent via the NE wall of the NE ridge (route by V. Forostyan).
3. Route category: 6A.
4. Route type: rock climbing.
5. Route elevation gain: approximately 1160 m. Route length: 1700 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty: 248 m, with 6th category difficulty: 108 m. Average steepness:
   • wall section: 92°;