St. Petersburg Alpinism Federation

Russian Alpinism Championship. High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

St. Petersburg Combined Team Krumkol Peak, 4688 m, via North Ridge Timofeev's Route, 1967, Category 6A

Ascent Passport

1. Region 2.5. From Kitlod Pass to Gezewcек Pass (north of the Main Caucasian Ridge)
2. Krumkol, 4688 m, via north ridge
3. Complexity Category — 6A;

PASSPORT

1. Technical class
2. Caucasus, Mijirgi gorge
3. Peak Krumkol 4676 m via the left part of the North face
4. Difficulty category — 5B, 2nd ascent
5. Elevation gain — 1576 m, length — 1935 m Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 875 m, including 175 m of 6th category. Average steepness of the wall section — 55°
6. Pitons hammered in: | Rock | Bolted | Nuts | Ice | | :--: | :----: | :--: | :--: |

Passport

1. Technical class
2. Caucasus, Kundryum-Mijirgi gorge
3. v. Krumkol via the left part of the northern wall
4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain: 1570 m, length — 1960 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 390 m. Average steepness of main sections 75° (3400–3680, 4090–4290) and of these, 6 category of difficulty 270 m (3400–3680, 4090–4290)
6. Pitons hammered: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-: | | 153 | 2 | 4 | 149 |

Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi (4500 m) via W and N ridge

From the bivouac on the SW spur of Panoramny peak (3900) cross the glacier tributary, enter the cirque of Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi pass and approach the beginning of the ascent to the pass. From here, 120–150 m along the snow shelf to the right under the walls of Skalniy peak, 150 m up a gentle snow gully, then 80 m up an ice-rock gully (with protection on ledges on the left) to a snow shoulder on the 3rd spur from the main ridge. From the shoulder, down and then 80 m up a snowy-icy gully on the left to the saddle on the N ridge of the summit. 3–4 hours from the bivouac. Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi From the saddle, 40 m along a steep, sharp snow ridge, 150–170 m along a flattening snow slope, and another 120–150 m along a snow ridge with rock outcrops (beware of cornices) to the summit. 1–1.5 hours from the saddle. Descent via the ascent route takes 2.5–3 hours. Hazardous places: closed crevasses on the glacier; rockfall hazard and natty ice on the shelf; possible cornices on the N ridge. Special equipment: 4–5 rock pitons; 2–3 ice screws; crampons for all participants.

Route description for Peak 4500 "Kundyum-Mijirgi" via the southeast ridge, category 3B difficulty.

Day I

Ascent to the third step of the "Kundyum-Mijirgi" icefall. (Refer to the route descriptions for Peak 4500 via the western ridge, category 3B difficulty, and via the northern ridge, category 3A difficulty.)

Day II

From the campsite on the third step, ascend to the plateau located above the fourth step of the icefall. The fourth step is bypassed either on the left along the rocks or through a labyrinth of crevasses in the middle part. Traverse the plateau, staying on its left side, towards the saddle between the "Ptitsa" peak and Peak 4500. Ascend to the saddle via a snowy couloir (with rock outcrops in the upper part), staying on the right side. The rocky gendarme (1) in the ridge between "Ptitsa" and Peak 4500 remains on the right. The ascent from the campsite on the third step to the saddle takes 2–4 hours. From the saddle, proceed along the ridge (moderately difficult rocks) for 6 rope lengths to a rectangular gendarme (rock) 4 m high. The rock is a key point on the route. For a team of 4, the following order is recommended for passing the rock. The first climber from the first rope team approaches the inner corner of the rock along a sharp snowy ridge and drives in the first piton for self-belaying and setting up a belay.

Ascent Report on Kursaanty 3-V (3838 m) Traverse, along the 3rd Ridge, E. Chasova, 1982, Category 2B

The route was completed by the former team from St. Petersburg (now Voronezh) 2022

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus, 2.5. From Kittlod Pass to Gezivcek Pass (from the north of the Main Caucasian Range)
2. Kursaanty 3-V peak (3838 m), traverse, along the 3rd ridge, E. Chasova, 1982
3. Route type — combined.
4. Height difference ~ 150 m. Route length ~ 600 m. Length of sections with V-VI category difficulty: ~ 40 m.

Lalver – Gestola, traverse, 3B cat. diff. The red dotted line is the ascent route. The blue dotted line indicates the 4A route. The black dotted line indicates a possible emergency descent option, the route is unclassified. Green labels — overnight stops.

• 4 — Chyornye Osypi bivouac.

1. Ascent to Gestola peak via Lalver

Gestola peak (4850 m) is located in the Main Caucasian Range, in the Bezingi Wall. Ascent to Gestola via Lalver is classified as 3B cat. diff.

Report

of the UTС FASIL St. Petersburg team on the ascent of Mekhtygen Eastern (3085 m) via the couloirs of the Southeast wall "Nevsky Prospekt" route - first ascent Proposed category: 2A Skalisty Ridge, Caucasus Team leader: Marshakov D.A. Team coach: Timoshenko T.I. St. Petersburg, 2012

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Skalisty Ridge, Cherek gorge

XXXIV USSR Championship on Ice and Snow Climbing P place, 8.221 points, August 17, 1983

Report

On the ascent of Mt. Mizhirgi Eastern (4918 m) via the left part of the North face — the second passage by the MAL "Kavkaz" team. Leader: Markelov V. V. Coach: Dobrovolsky L. N. 1983 International Alpine Camp: Address: 121069, Moscow, Skaterny per., 15 Phone: 290–23–67

Passport

1. Ice-snow class.
2. Caucasus, Mizhirgi gorge.
3. East Mizhirgi via the left part of the North wall (4918 m).
4. Assumed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 1800 m, length 2630 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1110 m. Average steepness of main sections — 57°/1830 m. Length of wall section — 2230 m.
6. Pitons hammered: rock 17, drilled 0, chocks 11, ice screws 157, snow stakes 20.
7. Team's climbing hours: days – 3 climbing hours – 30.5