Route description for Peak 4500 "Kundyum-Mijirgi" via the southeast ridge, category 3B difficulty.
Day I
Ascent to the third step of the "Kundyum-Mijirgi" icefall. (Refer to the route descriptions for Peak 4500 via the western ridge, category 3B difficulty, and via the northern ridge, category 3A difficulty.)
Day II
From the campsite on the third step, ascend to the plateau located above the fourth step of the icefall. The fourth step is bypassed either on the left along the rocks or through a labyrinth of crevasses in the middle part.
Traverse the plateau, staying on its left side, towards the saddle between the "Ptitsa" peak and Peak 4500.
Ascend to the saddle via a snowy couloir (with rock outcrops in the upper part), staying on the right side. The rocky gendarme (1) in the ridge between "Ptitsa" and Peak 4500 remains on the right. The ascent from the campsite on the third step to the saddle takes 2–4 hours. From the saddle, proceed along the ridge (moderately difficult rocks) for 6 rope lengths to a rectangular gendarme (rock) 4 m high. The rock is a key point on the route.
For a team of 4, the following order is recommended for passing the rock.
The first climber from the first rope team approaches the inner corner of the rock along a sharp snowy ridge and drives in the first piton for self-belaying and setting up a belay.
The first climber from the second rope team follows the belay to the piton, secures their rope to it, and releases the first climber from the first rope team.
The first climber from the first rope team drives in a second piton above, pulls up, and hangs on it. Then, in the same manner, drives in and pulls up on a third piton and reaches the top of the rock.
Beyond the rock, a overhanging wall (3) begins, which is bypassed on the right upwards via fairly steep rocks (2 rope lengths).
After bypassing the wall, ascend to the summit via a steep snowy slope (2 rope lengths).
The ascent from the saddle to the summit takes 3–5 hours.
The descent is made along the northern ridge, to the left of the "Kundyum-Mijirgi" pass (refer to the route description via the northern ridge, category 3A difficulty).
The descent time is between 20 minutes and 2 hours.
Required equipment:
- Universal pitons (for passing the rock) — 3 pieces
- Standard vertical and horizontal pitons — 5 pieces
- Carabiners — 5 pieces
- Disposable rope — 5 m
- Crampons — 1 pair per team.
Route description compiled by Smirnov A.Ya. on July 6, 1965.
