Moscow Alpine Championship 2016 High-altitude Technical Class

Report

On the ascent to Ushba South (4710 m) via the left part of the southwest wall (Myslyaev's Route) 6A category of complexity The teams from the Mountain Club "Alpindustria" together with the Alpine Federation of Samara Region on August 19–22, 2016 Moscow 2016

Ascent Passport

REPORT

ON COMPLETING THE TRAVERSE OF SOUTHERN USHBA – NORTHERN USHBA 6A DIFFICULTY LEVEL BY THE TEAM FROM NIU MGSU FOR THE PERIOD from August 28 to September 2, 2023 Route "Krasivyy" 2023

1. Climbing Report

up. 595 dated 13.11.90 2.4.445 N 34 RSFSR CHAMPIONSHIP IN ALPINISM 1990 6A and/or TECHNICAL CLIMB CLASS REPORT REPORT ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF USHBA SOUTH 4711 m VIA THE BASTIONS OF THE SOUTHWEST WALL (FIRST ASCENT) BY THE TEAM FROM THE SPORTS CLUB "RODINA" OF THE KIROV REGIONAL SPORTS COMMITTEE TEAM LEADER ZHOLOBOV M.P. TEAM COACH MASHKOVTSEV V.I. Sports Club "RODINA": 610006, Kirov, ul. Lepsse, 4A, tel. 30310, 36592. Team Leader: ZHOLOBOV Mikhail Pavlovich, Kirov, ul. Surikova, 9, apt. 54, tel. 42303. Deputy Team Leader: SHABALIN Pavel Eduardovich, 610000, Kirov, ul. Nekrasova, 6A, apt. 36, tel. 41034. Team Coach: MAKOVTSEV Vladimir Ivanovich, Kirov, ul. Lenina, 63/12, apt. 3.

Ascent Log

1. Class — technical
2. Climbing area — Central Caucasus
3. Peak — Ushba South, 4710 m via the right part of the SW wall
4. Difficulty category — 6B
5. Elevation gain — 1465 m (by altimeter); length — 2000 m; length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 140 m; length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 355 m; average steepness of the main part of the route (pillar) — 81°
6. Pitons driven: rock, chocks, ice, bolt: | 12*+6 | 43 | 13 | 58* | | :-------------------------------------: | :-: | :-: | :-: | | 4 | 32 | 0 | 34 |

m-t Kustovskogo
pr 540 n 17
09.10.84.
IV-th CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE CAUCASIAN TERRITORIAL ADMINISTRATION
MOUNTAINEERING CAMPS
1984
CLASS OF TECHNICAL ASCENTS

Report

On the ascent to Ushba South summit (4710 m) via the right part of the SW wall, category 5B, 3rd ascent of Kustovskiy's route from 1963 by a team of instructors from "Adyl-Su" alpine camp Ascent leader — Smirnov V.N.

ASCENT DOCUMENT.

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent region — Central Caucasus.
3. Object of ascent — Ushba South peak (4710 m) via the right part of the SW wall (Kustovsky route) 6B category of complexity.
4. Height difference of the wall section — 580 m. Total height difference — 1460 m.
5. Total route length — 1897.5 m, including sections of 5–6 category of complexity — 835.5 m.
6. Average steepness of the route — 68°, including the wall section — 80°.
7. Pitons hammered: | rock | ice | bolt | chocks |

344029, Rostov-on-Don, 1st Cavalry Army St., "Planet" club, A.G. Pogorelov

Ascent Log

1. CLASS — technical
2. ASCENT AREA — Central Caucasus
3. OBJECT OF ASCENT — Ushba South and North with ascent via the right part of the southwest wall 6B cat. diff. (Kustovsky's route)
4. DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 6B
5. HEIGHT DIFFERENCE — 1450 m
6. DISTANCE — about 3000 m
7. PITONS DRIVEN: ROCK — 136/44

Ascent Passport

1. Technical class
2. Central Caucasus
3. Ushba South peak 4710 m via the right part of the 103 wall (Kustovsky's route 7)
4. Category of difficulty — 5B
5. Height difference — 1450 m, length — 2170 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 700 m. Average steepness of the route — 56°. Average steepness of the main sections — 80°
6. Pitons hammered: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice screws |

1966 Photo 1. Approach to the wall from the base camp. Sections R1–R3. The Ushba massif is well-known. It is located in a popular, well-studied mountaineering area. In the last decade, climbers have worked hard to develop the harsh Ushba walls, making a series of new top-class routes. However, the possibilities for interesting first ascents on Ushba are not yet exhausted. The team of the Armed Forces of the USSR declared and passed a route on the Eastern wall of South Ushba. This path attracted the attention of the army climbers back in 1959 during the ascent to the peak via the north-eastern wall. The route was studied carefully for a long time. This path is logical and the only one. Passing along the protruding part of the wall, it is sufficiently protected from rockfall. The presence of two belts of steeply inclined terraces on the wall allowed for planning convenient overnight stays in advance. The route can be conditionally divided into four major parts: three powerful steep rock climbs and the summit ridge. On the climbs of the wall, a large number of difficult sections were expected, predominantly:

• smooth overhangs;

Fig. 26

2. Tra­verse of Sofru­dzhu peak from the north-east — category 2B (fig. 26)

From Domba­y­skaya Poly­ana across the bridge over the Ali­bek river and along the trail to the crossing over the Ama­nauz river. Crossing to the right bank, then along the mo­rena and over the "baa­ran­y lby" to the Ama­nauz­sky gla­cier, and along it to the ter­mi­nal mo­rena under the Zapad­no-Ama­nauz­sky gla­cier. Camping site. From Domba­y­skaya Poly­ana — 3–4 hours. Further (in con­nec­tion!) as­cend to the Ama­nauz pass be­tween the peaks Glav­ny Ama­nauz and Sofru­dzhu. As­cend along the right side of the heav­ily cre­vassed gla­cier, then, in the up­per part, un­der the slopes of Sofru­dzhu Zub exit to the mid­dle of the gla­cier, as snow ava­lanch­es are pos­si­ble from the slopes of Sofru­dzhu Zub. Along the mid­dle of the gla­cier up to the bergschrund, cross the bergschrund over a snow bridge and up the steep snow slope (50°) to the pass. Exit to the pass to the left of the rocky out­crop at the pass point.