m-t Kustovskogo
pr 540 n 17
09.10.84.
IV-th CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE CAUCASIAN TERRITORIAL ADMINISTRATION
MOUNTAINEERING CAMPS
1984
CLASS OF TECHNICAL ASCENTS
Report
On the ascent to Ushba South summit (4710 m) via the right part of the SW wall, category 5B, 3rd ascent of Kustovskiy's route from 1963 by a team of instructors from "Adyl-Su" alpine camp
Ascent leader — Smirnov V.N.
Senior team coach — Khramtsova G.K.
1984
Addresses and phone numbers
- 361603 KB ASSR post office Elbrus a/l "Adyl-Su" tel. 1-81
- Senior team coach:
Khramtsova Galina Konstantinovna, 195009, Leningrad-9, Komsomola st., 35, apt. 144, tel. 168-71-68 - Team captain:
Smirnov Vladimir Nikolaevich, 702164, Tashkent region, Ordzhonikidzevsky district, Geofizik settlement, bld. 65, apt. 42
Altitudes were determined by altimeter.
Team's tactical actions
According to the tactical plan, the ascent was to be made from July 8 to July 13, 1984.
The main crux section "Stolb" was planned to be climbed from July 9 to July 12, 1984. Due to good condition of the route in the lower part of "Stolb" and good weather on this section, "Stolb" was climbed one day ahead of schedule.
There were no deviations from the tactical plan.
The following rope teams were formed: Tsoy V. — Smirnov V.N. — Korolev N.I.; Chepur A.A. — Skrylev V.M.
On the section 0-11, the Chepur — Smirnov rope team led. On the section 11-27, the Smirnov — Tsoy rope team led. On the section 27-35, the Chepur — Skrylev rope team led. On the section 35-50, the Smirnov — Tsoy rope team led. The lead climber in the rope teams changed daily. There was no preliminary processing of the sections. Rope protection was organized throughout the route.
Movement along the route began at 6:00 and lasted about 13 hours. Rest was 10-11 hours. Overnight stays were organized in safe places from rockfall: sitting and lying down, and on safe platforms in tents.
On all difficult sections, the first climber moved on a double rope using BEPU-400 tape arrestors, the second belayed through an "eight", and the last moved along the fixed ropes with top rope belay. On "Stolb", the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th climbers moved along double fixed ropes, and on sections with cornices and traverses — along fixed ropes with top rope belay.
There were no falls or injuries on the route.
Challenging tasks associated with the high difficulty of the route, wet rocks, and "water shower" in hurricane winds were solved by organizing reliable belays using a wide variety of rock protection and placement, and by passing through sections in a highly concentrated and cautious manner.
In strong winds, when the waterfall from the "funnel" drenched the climbers in the middle and upper parts of "Stolb", all participants showed restraint, tolerance, and a desire to quickly pass the difficult section.
Practically wet overnight stays did not affect the quality of subsequent work. New equipment samples were not used on the route.
Communication with observers was carried out regularly via "Lastochka" radio station 10 minutes before the scheduled time between the camp and observers via "Karat I" radio station.
Observers saw the group on "Stolb" and above, up to the summit, regularly through a 12x binocular.
Route description by sections
The assault camp was located on the Ushba glacier at an altitude of 2600 m. The ascent to the SW wall was made along the left part of the glacier, avoiding crevasses, to a depression, and then to the bergschrund (1.5 hours). From here (altitude 3000 m), the route begins along an ice slope and then to the SW rocky ridge.
The route passes through three rocky belts:
The 1st rocky belt includes a steep part of the ridge, about 450 m long. The height difference of this belt is about 300 m. Route sections 0-12 are category 3-5.
The 2nd rocky belt consists of the "Stolb" bastion, about 650 m long, with a height difference of 620 m. This is the most difficult and challenging section.
A large number of cornices with significant steepness makes the passage of "Stolb" extremely challenging. The daytime and evening "water shower" from the "funnel" that the wind blows onto the route makes "Stolb" impassable in the second half of the day.
Sections 12-40.
The 3rd rocky belt is the summit bastion, about 150 m long, with a height difference of 120 m. It is a steep rocky slope with some ice and is typically climbed in bad weather.
Sections 42-48.
Day 1 – July 8, 1984
Section 0-1 – slope 40°, length 80 m. Ice, partially with a thin layer of snow. The Chepur — Skrylev rope team led to section 11. Titanium ice screws were used for belays.
Section 1-2 – slope 75°, length 30 m. Wall with good relief and a variety of cracks.
Section 2-3 – slope 60°, length 20 m. Inner corner, good holds available.
Section 3-4 – slope 45°, length 80 m. Wide inner corner with many holds and cracks.
Section 4-5 – slope 60°, length 40 m. Wall dissected by cracks.
Section 5-6 – slope 45°, length 20 m. Slabs, ledges.
Section 6-7 – slope 30°, length 60 m. Sharp rocky ridge.
Section 7-8 – slope 60°, length 20 m. Wall with good cracks.
Section 8-9 – slope 45°, length 10 m. Smoothed slabs.
Section 9-10 – slope 45°, length 30 m. Ledges, slabs, broken rocks.
Section 10-11 – slope 30°, length 20 m. Ledge with a safe exit to a platform. Here, a bivouac was organized on July 8, 1984.
Day 2 – July 9, 1984
Section 11-12 – slope 45°, length 50 m. Slabs, "sheep's foreheads" type, transitioning into the "Stolb" wall.
Section 12-13 – slope 70°, length 45 m. Monolith with small cracks. Few holds. Significant sections are climbed on friction.
Section 13-14 – slope 40°, length 15 m. Diagonal ledge with holds; possible to organize a sitting bivouac.
Section 14-15 – slope 85°, length 30 m. Wall with few holds; use of artificial aids (AIDs).
Section 15-16 – slope 65°, length 25 m. Inclined slab; AIDs used.
Section 16-17 – slope 60°, length 25 m. Smooth wall with small cracks; AIDs used.
Section 17-18 – slope 90°, length 30 m. Very complex inner corner. AIDs used. At the top of the section — a chimney.
Section 18-19 – slope 140°, ascent 2 m — cornice. AIDs used.
Section 19-20 – slope 90°, length 10 m. System of inner corners with cornices. Very challenging climbing; AIDs used.
Section 20-21 – slope 90°, length 3 m. Icy chimney. AIDs used; a bolt hook was used for belay.
Section 21-22 – slope 115°, length 1.5 m. Overhanging cornice climbed using AIDs.
Section 22-23 – slope 90°, length 35 m. System of inner corners with cornices. Very challenging climbing; AIDs used.
Section 23-24 – slope 10°, length 4 m. Large ledge; possible good bivouac.
Section 24-25 – slope 80°, length 40 m. System of inner corners; AIDs used.
Section 25-26 – slope 90°, length 15 m. Chimney, then wall. Very difficult climbing. AIDs used.
Section 26-27 – slope 80°, length 75 m. Monolithic wall with few cracks and holds. Very challenging climbing. AIDs used. At the top, a ledge — bivouac.
Day 3 – July 10, 1984
Section 27-28 – slope 90°, length 10 m. Vertical chimney filled with ice. Challenging climbing.
Section 28-29 – slope 95°, length 30 m. Inner corner with cracks, at the top — wall; AIDs used.
Section 29-30 – slope 80°, length 40 m. System of inner corners interrupted by inclined ledges.
Section 30-31 – slope 90°, length 20 m. Challenging climbing on the wall using micro-relief; AIDs used.
Section 31-32 – slope 75°, length 20 m. Wall under which lies a slab leading to a small ledge with few holds; AIDs used.
Section 32-33 – slope 80°, length 20 m. Wall to the left of an overhanging rock; AIDs used; very challenging climbing.
Section 33-34 – slope 15°, length 3 m. Inclined ledge; possible bivouac.
Section 34-35 – slope 90°, length 20 m. Wall with AIDs; left to right, very challenging climbing. Exit to a ledge where a bivouac was organized.
Day 4 – July 11, 1984
Section 35-36 – slope 90°, length 20 m. Wall with few holds; a bolt hook used for belay; AIDs used; very challenging climbing.
Section 36-37 – slope 110°, length 5 m. Cornice climbed using AIDs.
Section 37-38 – slope 90°, length 20 m. Along a small ledge, traverse right 5 m, then very challenging climbing up the wall. Used a bolt hook for belay; AIDs used.
Section 38-39 – slope 70°, length 40 m. Heavily broken rocks; at the top, an inclined platform.
Section 39-40 – slope 60°, length 15 m. System of heavily broken walls and ledges leading to the summit of "Stolb".
Section 40-41 – slope 50°, length 200 m. Ice gully with rock outcrops leading to a platform on "Krasny Ugol" where a bivouac was organized on the descent from the summit.
Section 41-42 – slope 45°, length 280 m. Rocky ridge of "sheep's foreheads" type leading under the summit bastion.
Section 42-43 – slope 85°, length 30 m. Inner corner with snow and ice; AIDs used.
Section 43-44 – slope 110°, length 4 m. Cornice; AIDs used.
Section 44-45 – slope 65°, length 50 m. Inclined slab with small holds.
Section 45-46 – slope 15°, length 20 m. Inclined ledge with "live" rocks, snow, and ice.
Section 46-47 – slope 85°, length 20 m. Inner corner with snow on the holds.
Section 47-48 – slope 70°, length 10 m. Wall with a crack; AIDs used.
Section 48-49 – slope 30°, length 80 m. Broken rocky ridge.
Section 49-50 – slope 40°, length 400 m. Rocky ridge with walls of "sheep's foreheads" type, interspersed with snow and ice.