Report

ON TRAVERSE P. "N" — P. Bykovsky with ascent via the eastern wall of the eastern ridge of P. "N", 4B cat. diff. (approximately). First ascent. 2nd: Bogomolov S. G., August 15, 1978 Krul V. N. ~650 m, ascent 50°, III–440, IV–80, V–40. asc. cr., 6.5 hours. July 1978

Map of the ascent area

Appendix No.2

Route Description

Climbing Mt. Begich (4473 m) via the Eastern Ridge, category 2B difficulty (tentative). From the base camp at Kozhdeba meadow:

• Up the Kок-Су valley along a dirt road to the bridge
• Then across the bridge and along a trail on the right (orographically) bank of the Kок-Су river to the first left tributary
• Up the tributary, staying on its right side
• Then along a grassy ridge to the wall of the eastern ridge of the peak From the base camp — 3–4 hours. Further, 40 meters up the inner corner of the wall, then 40 meters up and to the right onto the eastern ridge. Protection is via pitons. After crossing the ridge, the movement continues along a wide snow depression to a narrow snow couloir and then an ascent to the pre-summit shoulder of the eastern ridge.

Climbing Route Description

to Begich Peak (4473 m) via Western Counterfort of the 10.3 ridge, category 3A (approx.). From the base camp at Kozhdeba meadow, follow the trail along the left (orographically) bank of the Kok-Su River to the 2nd bridge (2 hours 30 minutes from the camp). Cross the bridge and ascend along the Shakhdara stream to the cirque under Kyz-Korgon Peak (4630 m), where you set up a bivouac (4 hours 30 minutes from the camp). From the bivouac, ascend along the left (in the direction of travel) stream to the glacier between the ridges of Begich and Kyz-Korgon Peaks. Traverse the glacier (in teams), bypassing the western ridge of Begich Peak, and exit to the upper cirque of the glacier. From the upper cirque, approach the reddish counterfort of the Southwest ridge, orienting towards the triangular wall formed on the left by a chimney and on the right by a snow-ice couloir. The journey from the bivouac takes 3 hours. Ascend to the triangular wall's summit, moving left-up along a ledge, then right-up through a cleft (40 m), and then along the ridge (40 m). Use piton belays. On the triangle's summit, there's a control cairn. From the cairn, ascend directly up a wide, steep (40°) scree couloir, then along rocky ridges, exiting under the base of the large reddish triangular wall (120 m). From here, move right, then directly up along the right rocky wall of a narrow snow-ice couloir, exiting onto the counterfort ridge (40 m). Use piton belays and natural features for protection. The journey from the start of the route takes 2 hours. Along the counterfort ridge, navigate through a series of short (3–4 m) rocky walls and inclined ledges, bypassing a large gendarme on the right (in the direction of travel), and exit onto the Southwest ridge of the peak, under the base of a rocky ascent (80 m).

PASSPORT

ASCENT TO Mt. Zub Begichi (4100 m) via the NE counterfort.

1. Class of ascent — technical.
2. Area of ascent — Southern spurs of the Alayskiy ridge, Kok-Su valley.
3. Peak 4100 m, proposed name Zub Begichi.
4. Proposed category of difficulty 4B.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference – 1100 m, length of sections:
     • 5th difficulty category – 120 m
     • 4th difficulty category – 260 m

ASCENSION DOCUMENT Technical Class of the Ascent Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge 3. P. Koltsova (4820) via the north face of the triangle 4. Category 5B difficulty 5. Route Characteristics: rocky height difference — 850 m, lengths of sections:

• Category 1 difficulty — none
• Category 2 difficulty — none

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Alaysky ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. 5027 (p. Commune) via the south-eastern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: combined elevation gain, 1000 m; length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 30 m; average steepness — 45°.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating artificial holds on:
   • rock — 7;
   • ice — 3;
   • bolted — none.

Description of the First Ascent to the Peak

of Jaan Kreuks (4634 m) via Route 4B cat. diff.

(Eastern Ridge) on July 20–21, 1977

1. The approach from the base camp (helicopter pad at the mouth of the Kemisdykty River) to the Allaudin Glacier takes 3.5 hours. Crossing the glacier (open by the end of July) and ascending the right slope of the glacier's flank—the foot of Jaan Kreuks Peak—takes 1.5 hours. It is advisable to stop for the night here to start the route early in the morning. In the evening, rocks occasionally fall from the couloir to the right of the route.
2. Start the route no later than 7:00 AM. Overcoming the R1–R2 section does not require special techniques, but traversing the ice slope towards the steep rocky buttress as you approach the bergschrund requires crampons (one pair per rope team) and ice screws. Exiting the bergschrund is challenging and requires step-cutting with piton belay. This is crucial as climbers in a team of two were carrying backpacks. Almost immediately after exiting the bergschrund, continue traversing the slope with a 60–70 % gradient, cutting steps in a closed stance with the left hand. The second climber in the team monitors the slope.
3. Section R3–R4. The ascent onto the steep buttress is challenging. Caution is required due to steep, inclined slabs with unstable holds. Pitons are used—vertical, horizontal, and channel-type. There is a small platform for organizing a belay and pulling up backpacks. The direction is upwards and to the left.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — TECHNICAL
2. Ascent area — PAMIR-ALAY, ALAYSKY RANGE, KOK-SU VALLEY
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — p. YANA KREUSA, 4634 m, RIGHT EDGE OF THE SOUTHERN WALL CHIMNEY
4. Difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics: the route is rocky, with an altitude difference of 850 m, wall section 485 m, total length 1230 m. Length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 400 m, 6th difficulty category — 52 m. Average steepness of the route — 50° — wall — 80°
6. Pitons used: rock — 78, ice — –, bolted — –, chocks — 12
7. Total climbing hours — 25 hours
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: two bivouacs with lying positions: the first one on a meadow under the wall, the second on a ledge

Sportclub "Burevestnik" Group

consisting of:

1. Ilyinsky E.T. — leader, experienced climber
2. Toporkov A. — participant
3. Shablitskaya L. — experienced climber
4. Nevsky Ya. — experienced climber
5. From Myndzhilki, we ascended to the Tuk-Su moraine via a trail. From the foot of Mayakovsky, we had to trample a trail to the Ordzhonikidze Pass. The snow had become soggy by then and sank up to the waist. We spent the night on the pass as we reached it by the fourth hour.
6. The next day, we descended to the east Ordzhonikidze glacier. Initially, we traversed an scree slope, followed by a 60° ice slope. We traversed the glacier until we reached the terminal moraine beneath the northeast ridge's rock wall. The descent took 2 hours and 30 minutes. Then, we ascended towards the first rock wall via very deep snow. The ascent was directed towards a rock island standing before a couloir that led to the ridge (photos 1 and 2). The rock island was initially ascended directly via broken rocks. In the upper section, it was bypassed to the left via a 60° ice slope (1 rope length) with step-cutting, as the snow did not hold. Upon reaching the rock island, we continued ascending via the couloir to the left of our route. The first 1.5 rope lengths consisted of ice up to 70°, which was traversed with step-cutting and piton belay (2 pitons). Then, the slope became gentler, and the couloir was filled with snow above human height. Due to the loose snow and avalanche danger, we had to exit to the left wall and traverse diagonally upwards to the right with piton belay (3 rope lengths) — exiting into the upper section of the couloir. From here, a heavily snow-covered slope of approximately 45° led to the ridge (2 rope lengths).

Climbing Passport

I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. Climbing area — Tian Shan, Ugam Ridge 3. Peak, its height, climbing route — p. Kergely, 3750 m, northwestern counterfort. 4. Estimated difficulty category — 2B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 450 m, average steepness of the wall section — 55°, total route — 35°, length of sections: 1—..., 2—100 m, 3—345 m, 4—130 m, 5—...