• Climbing category: technical
• Climbing area: Trans-Ili Alatau ridge
• Peak, its height, and ascent route: peak "TRUD", 4650 m, via the right part of the Western wall, first ascent.
• Estimated route category: 5B
• Route characteristics: height difference — 1180 m, average steepness — 55°, total route length — 1560 m, section lengths:
  • 3rd difficulty category — 415 m
  • 4th difficulty category — 580 m
  • 5th difficulty category — 540 m
  • 6th difficulty category — 25 m
• Pitons used:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent area: Zailiyskiy Ala-Tau 3. Peak: Tруд 4650 m via the left part of the West wall, first ascent. 4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B. 5. Route characteristics: Height difference 1010 m. Average steepness 65°. Total route length — 1190 m. Length of sections with 4th difficulty category — 330 m, 5th difficulty category — 480 m. 6. Pitons hammered: insurance and others

• Rock pitons — 27
• Ice pitons — 2

I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. Climbing area — Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Golubina lake area 3. Peak Ala-Archa 4088 m via Eastern ridge, route characteristic — ridge climb 4. Proposed complexity category — 3A 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 520 m, length — 880 m, including sections of 3*-4th cat. diff. — 90 m, 3rd cat. diff. — 350 m; average slope — 42° 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 17(0), chocks — 8(0), ice — 0 7. Duration — 12 hours 8. Overnight stays — none 9. Team leader — Kuzovov D.S., Master of Sports

The route starts from the bergschrund. In winter, the crevices are usually filled with snow and crossing the bergschrund is not particularly difficult. In summer, however, there may be a difference in the walls of the crevice of up to 3–5 m of sheer ice or very difficult firn that is challenging to belay. Section R0–R4:

• Ice slab with a slope of up to 50°.
• Alternating movement.
• Belay using ice screws. Section R3–R3:
• Rock islands covered with ice.
• In summer, due to the thin ice, the rocks may be exposed, so belaying is expected to be done using both ice screws and rock protection (pitons and nuts).
• Due to the specifics of the rock relief, thin rock pitons and small-sized nuts (preferably stoppers) are preferable. Section R4–R5:

Climbing Report for Peak Baychechekhey via the Right Counterfort of the Western Wall, 5A Category of Difficulty (A. Schwab Route)

Climbing Passport

1. Technical Climbing Category
2. Ak-Say, Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range
3. Peak Baychechekhey, 4515 m, via the right counterfort of the western wall (A. Schwab route)
4. Category of Difficulty: 5A
5. Height Difference: 515 m (wall section) Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty: 250 m Length of sections with 6th category of difficulty: 90 m Average steepness of the wall section: 75°

Ascent Passport

1. Tian Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge
2. Pk. Baychechekhey, 4515 m, route via the central counterfort of the 3rd wall
3. 5A cat. dif.
4. Rock
5. Route height difference: 760 m. Route length: 1430 m. Section lengths:

• V cat. dif. — 135 m.
• VI cat. dif. — 6 m.

Report on the first ascent of the route to the peak Izyiskatel via the southern ridge.

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz ridge, Ala-Archa gorge. Peak Izyiskatel 4400 m. Proposed category 4B, first ascent. The nature of the route is rocky. The height difference of the route is 500 m. The length of the route is 1050 m.
2. Length of sections: II — 500 m, III — 350 m, IV — 150 m, V — 50 m,
3. Average slope: main (wall) part of the route — 60° Total route — 30°
4. Hooks left on the route: total — 0;
5. Used in total on the route: rock pitons — 7, chocks — 20.
6. Used in total artificial climbing holds (ACH) — 0 pcs.

I. Climbing category­­ — first ascent 2. Climbing area­­ — Kyrgyzsky ridge, Golubina lake area 3. Peak "Klov" (tentative name) 3920 m via N ridge, route type­­ — rock 4. Proposed category of difficulty­­ — 3A 5. Route description: height difference­­ — 2 km, length of sections 3­­–4 km, cat. diff.­­ — 240 m, average steepness­­ — 45° 6. Pitons driven: - rock­­ — 14 - chocks­­ — 11/2 - ice­­ — 0 7. Total climbing hours­­ — 8 h

Pitch 0–2. Start — bergschrund. It is better to cross it in the left part of the lowering, as the width of the crevasse and the wall of the bergschrund are somewhat smaller. Further movement is along the ice slope with a steepness of 50–55° to the rocks. Insurance through ice screws, use of ice screws and piolet-traction (French: "piolet-traction", Russian: айс-фифи). Pitch 2 — 5. Rocky belt, steep granite monoliths, limited selection of cracks. At first, movement along the inner corner, then a small cornice; after it, along an inclined crack to the left. Very difficult climbing, passing in aide (French: "aide", Russian: ИТО). When planning the passage of this section, it is best to use preliminary processing. For insurance, the entire set of rock equipment is used:

• pitons (Russian: крючья),
• nuts (Russian: закладки),
• cams (Russian: френды),
• piton-ladders (Russian: крю-коно-лесе-нки) etc. Pitch 6 — II. A small inclined shelf, overnight stay is possible using a hammock or a square piece of fabric under a tent. Further:
• Very difficult climbing along a vaguely expressed chimney
• Exit under a cornice

4.2.26

4.2. Pamir, Vanch Range, Peak Khrustalny, 5231 m, North Face

Alpinism Club "Donbass"