I. Climbing category — first ascent
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Climbing area — Kyrgyzsky ridge, Golubina lake area
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Peak "Klov" (tentative name) 3920 m via N ridge, route type — rock
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Proposed category of difficulty — 3A
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Route description: height difference — 2 km, length of sections 3–4 km, cat. diff. — 240 m, average steepness — 45°
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Pitons driven:
- rock — 14
- chocks — 11/2
- ice — 0
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Total climbing hours — 8 h
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Number of bivouacs — none
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Leader — Romina E.B. CMS
Team members:
- Novikov S.N. 3rd sp. grade
- Paydulin A.S. 3rd sp. grade
- Mikhalev K.I. 3rd sp. grade
- Ni V.L. 3rd sp. grade
- Nagorny A.M. 3rd sp. grade
- Team coach — Belousov E.M. CMS 2nd.
Date of departure and return — August 21, 1987.
- Organization — AUSV "Ala-Arch"
Peak 3920 m ("Klov") is located in the ridge between peaks 4107 m and Ala-Arch. Despite the relatively small height difference, it is a separate peak and is of interest for climbing due to the beauty and technical complexity of the route.
From bivouacs at IMS station on Golubina lake, move by crossing the glacier, avoiding crevasses, in the direction of peak I, 5–2 hours.
Section R0–R1: an implicitly expressed internal angle 50 m — simultaneous movement, piton belay
Section R1–R2: movement along the main ledge to the right and up a 7-meter wall
Section R2–R3: small walls 85–90 m, piton belay (chocks work well)
Section R3–R4: movement along an internal angle with an exit to a pre-summit gendarme. Control traverse. Piton belay (chocks)
Section R4–R5: movement along a wall (40 m) with an exit up a 10-meter chimney onto a talus ledge. Chocks.
Section R5–R6: 7-meter wall. Piton belay (chocks)
Section R6–R7: ascent to the summit along talus ledges. Simultaneous movement.
Descent from the summit towards p. 4 IO 7 onto a snowy plateau and then down a couloir (2A) between peaks p. 4 IO 7 and "Klov" onto Golubina glacier.
Recommendations:
- First person should wear galoshes
- Climb the route in a backpack
- Carry rocks in the backpack
- Have a set of chocks and pitons