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Climbing Report for Peak Baychechekhey via the Right Counterfort of the Western Wall, 5A Category of Difficulty (A. Schwab Route)

Climbing Passport

  1. Technical Climbing Category

  2. Ak-Say, Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range

  3. Peak Baychechekhey, 4515 m, via the right counterfort of the western wall (A. Schwab route)

  4. Category of Difficulty: 5A

  5. Height Difference: 515 m (wall section)

    Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty: 250 m Length of sections with 6th category of difficulty: 90 m Average steepness of the wall section: 75°

  6. Climbing Equipment Used:

    • nuts — 84 pcs.
    • cams — 60 pcs.
    • Camalot — 10 pcs.
  7. Team's Total Climbing Hours: 23 hours over 2 days

  8. Overnight Stops: 1st ( bivouac) — on the ridge

  9. Team Leader: Myagkova Ksenia Alexandrovna

    Climber: Novikova Natalia Pavlovna

  10. Coaches:

    Kauts L.S. (Candidate Master of Sports)

  11. Departure to the Route: August 20, 2006, 6:30 AM

    Summit: August 20, 2006, 8:00 PM Return: August 21, 2006, 3:00 PM

  12. Organizing Institution — Bauman Moscow State Technical University, Vizbor Club

Map — Climbing Area Diagram img-0.jpeg

Brief Route Description by Sections

R0–R14: Rocky ridge with 60–85° steepness. Climbed using free climbing. Reliable natural protection. Convenient belay stations on ledges. R15–R16: Scree ridge.

Climbing Techniques Used on Key Sections

Key sections were climbed using free climbing with protection on placed gear.

Climbing Schedule

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UIAA Route Diagram

SectionLength, mSteepness, deg.Difficulty
R182
R17100402
R1630855
R1520453
R1440754
R1340453
R1220604
R1130856
R1020605
R960805
R840805
R740705
R620856
R540705
R420604
R340856
R240604
R150805
R0120403
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Technical Photo of the Route

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Route Photo Illustration. Section R3.

img-5.jpeg

Route Photo Illustration. Section R8.

Attached files

Sources

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