Climbing Report for Peak Baychechekhey via the Right Counterfort of the Western Wall, 5A Category of Difficulty (A. Schwab Route)
Climbing Passport
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Technical Climbing Category
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Ak-Say, Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range
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Peak Baychechekhey, 4515 m, via the right counterfort of the western wall (A. Schwab route)
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Category of Difficulty: 5A
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Height Difference: 515 m (wall section)
Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty: 250 m Length of sections with 6th category of difficulty: 90 m Average steepness of the wall section: 75°
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Climbing Equipment Used:
- nuts — 84 pcs.
- cams — 60 pcs.
- Camalot — 10 pcs.
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Team's Total Climbing Hours: 23 hours over 2 days
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Overnight Stops: 1st ( bivouac) — on the ridge
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Team Leader: Myagkova Ksenia Alexandrovna
Climber: Novikova Natalia Pavlovna
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Coaches:
Kauts L.S. (Candidate Master of Sports)
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Departure to the Route: August 20, 2006, 6:30 AM
Summit: August 20, 2006, 8:00 PM Return: August 21, 2006, 3:00 PM
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Organizing Institution — Bauman Moscow State Technical University, Vizbor Club
Map — Climbing Area Diagram
Brief Route Description by Sections
R0–R14: Rocky ridge with 60–85° steepness. Climbed using free climbing. Reliable natural protection. Convenient belay stations on ledges. R15–R16: Scree ridge.
Climbing Techniques Used on Key Sections
Key sections were climbed using free climbing with protection on placed gear.
Climbing Schedule
UIAA Route Diagram
| Section | Length, m | Steepness, deg. | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|
| R18 | 2 | ||
| R17 | 100 | 40 | 2 |
| R16 | 30 | 85 | 5 |
| R15 | 20 | 45 | 3 |
| R14 | 40 | 75 | 4 |
| R13 | 40 | 45 | 3 |
| R12 | 20 | 60 | 4 |
| R11 | 30 | 85 | 6 |
| R10 | 20 | 60 | 5 |
| R9 | 60 | 80 | 5 |
| R8 | 40 | 80 | 5 |
| R7 | 40 | 70 | 5 |
| R6 | 20 | 85 | 6 |
| R5 | 40 | 70 | 5 |
| R4 | 20 | 60 | 4 |
| R3 | 40 | 85 | 6 |
| R2 | 40 | 60 | 4 |
| R1 | 50 | 80 | 5 |
| R0 | 120 | 40 | 3 |
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Technical Photo of the Route
Route Photo Illustration. Section R3.
