2.9А.43

WESTERN SHALBUZDAG (4105 m) VIA EASTERN RIDGE 3B TO TUR (FIRST ASCENT) ASCENT DETAILS

1. Ascent category: combined
2. Ascent area: 2–9 East Caucasus
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Western Shalbuzdag, approx. 4105 m, from the south to the col and via the Eastern ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category: 3B
5. Route characteristics:
   • elevation gain: 900 m

Ascent Passport

1. Winter ascent class.
2. Region 2.10 mountains of Dagestan, Chekhychay gorge, Shalbuzdag ridge.
3. Shalbuzdag North-Eastern, 3500 m, via the gap in the right bastion of the South wall.
4. 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference: route — 230 m, wall — 210 m (from 3270 m to 3480 m), average steepness of the wall — 70°, route length 506 m, wall section 246 m, section lengths:
   • 1 — 250 m
   • 2 — 20 m
   • 3 — 38 m

I. Category of first ascent. 2.2.10. Dagestan Mountains, South Dagestan, Shalbuzdagsky ridge. 3. Shalbuzdag Northwest, 4000 m, via the terrace of the West wall, rock route. 4. Proposed: first ascent, category 3B complexity (first ascent attempt). 5. Route characteristics:

• Elevation gain: 300 m.
• Length of sections:
• 2nd category complexity — 550 m.
• 3rd category complexity — 200 m.
• 4th category complexity — 90 m.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - rock climbing 2. Ascent area - 2.9 Eastern Caucasus 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route - Central Shalduzdag (4142 m) via the southwest counterfort 4. Proposed difficulty category - 3B, protocol No. 481 dated 22.08.1979 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain - 642 m average steepness - 50–55°, section lengths: R1–R12, R2–R3, R3–R15, R4–R2, R5–R25, R6–R30, R7–R7, R8–R3, R9–R30, R10–R8, R11–R5, R12–R80, R13–R60 6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating I.T.O. rock - 10, ice - 0, bolt - 0 7. Number of travel hours - 8 hours

I. ASCENT REPORT (2nd ascent)

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Eastern Caucasus, northern spurs of the Main Caucasian Range
3. Peak — Shalbuzdag Main, 4142 m, via the south face
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4A
5. Height difference — 300 m, length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 65 m, average steepness — 63°
6. Rock pitons hammered in — 9, chocks placed — 26, runner protection loops hung — 8
7. Number of moving hours — 8
8. Korenn A.V. 2nd sports category, leader Konovalov Yu.V. 2nd sports category

Ascent Passport

1. Class of winter ascents.
2. Region 2.10, Caucasus, Dagestan mountains, Chekhychay gorge.
3. Shalbuzdag Central, 4142 m, via the center of the SW wall, through the cornice, rock route.
4. 5B category of difficulty, first ascent. 48
5. Route characteristics: height difference of the route — 280 m, wall — 150 m (from 3860 m to 4010 m), average steepness of the route — 53°, wall — 77°. Route length — 575 m, wall — 180 m. Section lengths: 2 – 100 m, 3 – 250 m, 4 – 90 m, 5 – 97 m, including 24 m on artificial climbing holds (ITCH), 6 – 38 m (on ITCH); total climbing on ITCH — 62 m, with difficulty: A1 — 8 m, A2 — 36 m, A3 — 18 m.
6. Equipment used on the route:
   • rock pitons 34/18
   • including 7 at belay stations
   • chocks 57/40

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category: combined
2. Climbing region: 2.9 Eastern Caucasus
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. 4049 from the east and along the southern ridge (first ascent)
4. Estimated difficulty category: 1B
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference: 600 m
   • average steepness: 25°
   • length of sections: R1–600 m, R2–400 m, R3–40 m

PASSPORT

I. Class: First Ascent. 2. SHAHDAG massif, Eastern Caucasus, from Sudur valley. 3. Peak 4118 m, in the western ridge of Shahdag massif, via the right part of the northern slope, combined. 4. Difficulty category — 3B. 5. Elevation gain 1050 m, length 2500 m, sections of 3rd diff. cat. — 450 m, 4th diff. cat. — 50 m, average steepness 25°, main part of the route — 45°. 6. Pitons — 43/0, ice screws, rock — 4/0. Wedges — 0. 7. Travel hours — 8 h. 8. No overnight stays. 9. Leader: Alexander M. Khvashchenko, Candidate Master of Sports.

2.11.2.

AZERBAIJAN REPUBLIC ALPCLUB.

REPORT

on the ascent /first ascent/ to the summit 4095 m in the western ridge of the SHAHDAG massif, Eastern Caucasus, via the northwestern bastion of the northern wall. Rocky, 5A category of difficulty. Leader: A. M. KHVASHCHENKO. Coach: Yu. V. GORIN. September 25–26, 1990. BAKU, 1990.

Report on the Ascent of the National Team of Karachay-Cherkessia to the Summit of Belalakaya 3861 m

via the South-Eastern Lap. Presumably 5A category of difficulty. First Ascent. Semenov M. A. — team leader Tkachenko V. I. — 1st sports category Report compiled in November 2019

2. Caucasus

2.2. From Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass

Climbing Participants

1. Team Leader — Semenov Mikhail Alexandrovich. Candidate for Master of Sports. Coach — Shipilov V. A.