Brief description of the approach to the route. From the base camp at Kozhdeba meadow up to the bridge over the Kok-su River. Then along the left bank of the Begichi River on a horse trail. The trail:

• crosses to the right bank;
• then back to the left;
• and leads to a talus cone overgrown with grass (1.5 hours walk from the base camp). From the base of the cone to the right - upwards is a couloir. The summit at 4080 m is visible. Ascent via the couloir (along the old stream bed) to the start of the route. Route main characteristics table

Approaches to the route.

The 4470 m peak closes the main spur of the Guamysh ridge, which branches off in the northern direction and separates the Nizhny Guamysh glacier from the glacier in I. Enumeration:

• Main spur of the Guamysh ridge
• Direction — northern
• Separation of the Nizhny Guamysh glacier from the glacier in I From the base camp, located below the Guamysh pass, move along the trail to the right along the Guamysh river, approaching the entrance of the Nizhny Guamysh glacier. From here, the North spur of the peak is visible, the path to which goes along the lateral moraine and further along the main slope. The journey from the base camp to the start of the route takes 3–3.5 hours.

Brief explanation for the route table.

The ascent along the snow-ice slope (section I–II, II–III, III–IV) bypassing the rock wall, which ends the North edge of the peak, passes in close proximity to 64 eq. and leads to the ridge. Above the ridge, a powerful rock wall overhangs. Here is the first control point. The wall is bypassed on the left along an inclined shelf with piton belay and further the rock wall leads to the right onto the edge with gendarmes, turning into a destroyed edge, which ends with a sheer wall. The wall is bypassed on the left along the snow and then along the inclined rock shelf, resting against the rock wall (section I–II). Further along the inclined stepped shelf with small walls, we exit onto the edge between two gendarmes. The first gendarme is climbed "head-on", the second is bypassed on the left. From the gendarme along the main edge — the exit to the summit.

367 (Гуа­мин) is the summit of the Guamin ridge and is located on its linear part (see the map of the area). From the base camp located below the Guamin pass, we moved along the trail to the right along the Guamin river, approaching the tongue of the Nizhny Guamin glacier. From here the summit and its northwest ridge are visible. The further path goes:

• to the right of the glacier along the lateral moraine
• in the upper part, we cross the glacier under the northwest wall of the summit Here on the moraine is the overnight stay. The path from the base camp to the start of the route takes 3.5–4.0 hours.

Route description

From the base camp 3500 m, cross to the left (orographic) bank of the Гуа­мыш river, then follow the trail to the terminal moraine of the Гуа­мыш glacier. Ascend to the left lateral moraine of the glacier. Here, in a small col between the lateral moraine and the western slope of peak 4470 (п. Би­ву­ач­ный), is the overnight stop. There is water available. The time from the base camp 3500 m to the overnight stop is 2–2.5 hours. From the overnight stop on the moraine of the Гуа­мыш glacier:

• ascend the talus slope to the plateau;
• follow the right (orographically) lateral moraine of glacier II I (п. Озёр­ный) to the start of the route. The start of the route is a wide snowy couloir with rocky outcrops on the left, leading to a col. Ascent:
• ascend easy rocks to the right to reach peak 4470 (п. Би­ву­ач­ный). The time from the overnight stop to peak 4470 (п. Би­ву­ач­ный) is 2–2.5 hours;
• continue along the ridge, descending to the col;

Abundance of Information about Magirite

The peak with a height of 4680 m is located in the Guamysh spur, which branches off from the Alaysky ridge in the latitudinal direction in its middle part. The northern slopes of the Guamysh spur are subject to quite powerful glaciation, the main glaciers flow from south to north and are limited by lateral spurs.

• The height of the main Guamysh ridge varies within 4600–5000 m
• The peaks of the lateral northern spurs rise to 4500–4700 m
• The upper edge of the glaciers is at an altitude of 3600–3900 m The 4630 m peak is located in the dilapidated cirque of glacier No. 5 (Romin Glacier) south of the peak Kosmonavt Romin and is a characteristic snow-ice cap with a powerful cornice on the northern side. The shape of the peak is rounded, chateau-like, so it is proposed to name this peak p. Shar. From p. Shar:
• to the west continues the main Guamysh ridge towards peak 4734 m and peak 4845 m;
• to the north branches off a spur, in which the peaks Kosmonavt Romin and peak 4552 m (p. Baykonur) are located. This spur separates glaciers No. 5 (Romin Glacier) and No. 6 (Baykonur Glacier) from each other.

The trail initially goes along the right (orographically) side of the Suu-Chiktyn River. After 30 minutes, you need to descend down to the river, cross two branches of the Jav-Jjikga tributary fording. Then, continue along the trail on the right (orographically) bank of the Suu-Chiktyn River. The gorge gradually turns to the right and takes a south-north direction. At the bend of the river, it is necessary to ford it to the left (orographically) side and proceed towards the visible terminal moraine of the Suu-Chiktyn glacier. From the crossing point, the summit is visible. The path from the crossing point to the moraine takes 30-40 minutes. Advantages of crossing the terminal moraine:

Jashtyk-To Mountain

2A category, 600 m, 40°, 4 people via Jashtyk Pass. March 31, 1981. Tsibulevsky, V. Zhmaev, M. Karpenkov, I. Shchekanov (leader). Kichik-Alay ridge, upper Kyrgyz-Ata valley. Scale: 1 cm = 500 m. Approximately 100 km from Osh city to Iski-Naukat forestry.

Main characteristics table for the route to Kyrgyz-Ata peak via Jashtyk Pass

| Date, time | Section | Group | Average steepness | Distance, m | Difficulty category | Relief type | Relief condition | Weather conditions | Rock pitons | Ice pitons | Bolts |

Description of the Ascent to the Summit

Alam-Darvesh from the North

via route 2A cat. difficulty I. Dushanbe – Gushaры village (by car – 42 km). II. Approaches. Past the chaikhana and the store – onto the slope behind the Gushaры village. The trail is visible from the road: it goes up the slope behind the village to the left and then up to the right. In about 30–40 minutes, the trail leads to a stream, after which a steep ascent to a small pass begins. The ascent takes 10–15 minutes. Then a well-defined trail traverses the slope, approaching a powerful stream in about half an hour. The Alam-Darvesh peak stands in the upper reaches of a large right tributary of this stream. At one point, the trail opens up a view to the left of the peak and the pass, named by V.I. Kryukov in honor of the compiler of this description (“Oh, what a nasty pass!”) — Sanprosvetrabotnikov pass. You should not go all the way to the mouth of the tributary. 40–50 minutes after passing the previously mentioned small pass, near large nut trees, a small trail branches off perpendicularly to the right from the main trail, leading to the cultivated terraces on the right (orographic) bank of the valley of interest. You can also go along the bottom of the valley, but during periods of high water, you may have to climb high onto the slope to bypass the rock walls that approach the water.

Description

Ascent to the Western peak of Varzob Saw from the east via the 2A category route The Western peak of Varzob Saw (3830 m above sea level) is typically climbed by mountaineers during the traverse of the entire Varzob Saw via the 4B category route. In doing so, climbers ascend the peak via the western wall and descend to the east to continue the traverse. Until now, the ascent route to the peak from the east has not been classified, although it corresponds to the 2A category and can be recommended for badge holders and ranked climbers. The approach for this ascent is made via the same paths as for the Varzob Saw traverse from W to E: via the 3B category route, i.e., along the stream and then to the saddle between the Western peak and the main ridge. The ascent to the saddle is made on its right side (but not directly under the wall of the main ridge) via rough rocks with pronounced ledges, grooves, etc. There are areas on the saddle suitable for setting up two tents, and snow is present almost year-round on the northern side. Movement along the saddle towards the Western peak occurs:

• initially along the ledges on the northern side of the ridge,
• then, closer to the Western peak, on the southern side (belaying is mandatory). The ascent to the peak is made via short wall sections (1–1.5 m) alternating with ledges. The route here is easily chosen and passes:

47. Varzobskaya Pila ridge traverse (all summits except Western summit), category 3B route, fig. 26.

From the bivouac by the lake, ascend into the upper reaches of the stream and to the right up grassy slopes to the col between the Western summit and the main ridge of Varzobskaya Pila. In the upper part, the ascent to the col goes across rocks via ledges and gullies exiting onto the right part of the col. The ascent takes 1.5–2 hours. From the col, to the right below the gendarme wall. Ascend the gendarme on its right side for 60 m. Piton belay. Follow an easy, gently-sloping, stepped ridge to the top of the gendarme. Cairn. Descend from the gendarme down a steep 40-m gully onto the col. Possible snow cornices. The next gendarme is sharp-topped, red-colored. Follow the ridge upwards for 30–40 m to a talus-covered area from which, on the right, bypass the gendarme ridge along a wide ledge. The ledge is 10–15 m below the ridge of the gendarme. From the ledge, cross a small gendarme, and traverse a degraded ridge to the next col. To the next gendarme, ascend on the right up a slab with a ledge. The top of the gendarme is a gently sloping ridge. Descend to the col via a gully or ledges. Fig. 26. To ascend to the summit — the highest point of the ridge — follow moderately difficult rocks. To descend from the summit, follow the degraded ridge. Bypass gendarmes on the left by descending steeply down a gully on the north side and then continue along ledges and moderately difficult rocks on the northern slope of the ridge. Exit onto the ridge near a tall gendarme which will be followed by a sharp depression in the ridge. Down the degraded ridge to the east, bypassing gendarmes on the left. From the last gendarme, lower by rope and then descend down and left across a steep snowpatch leaving the ridge.