The trail initially goes along the right (orographically) side of the Suu-Chiktyn River. After 30 minutes, you need to descend down to the river, cross two branches of the Jav-Jjikga tributary fording. Then, continue along the trail on the right (orographically) bank of the Suu-Chiktyn River.
The gorge gradually turns to the right and takes a south-north direction. At the bend of the river, it is necessary to ford it to the left (orographically) side and proceed towards the visible terminal moraine of the Suu-Chiktyn glacier.
From the crossing point, the summit is visible. The path from the crossing point to the moraine takes 30-40 minutes.
Advantages of crossing the terminal moraine:
- Not steep
- Densely packed
- Simple to pass
After walking along the moraine for 45-50 minutes, deviating to the right, you approach the terminal moraine of glacier 2 (see diagram).
The ascent to glacier 2 is also straightforward; the glacier itself is relatively flat and has small crevasses. On the glacier, you need to move southwest towards the leftmost couloir leading to the pass. The path from the terminal moraine to the beginning of the couloir takes 1 hour.
There are three couloirs leading to the pass. The two on the right are hazardous due to rockfall and cannot be considered as options for ascending to the summit ridge. The pass and the ridge leading to the summit have large cornices overhanging towards the glacier.
The ascent via the chosen couloir begins with a 12-meter rock wall climb with a steepness of 75-80°.