Route description
From the base camp 3500 m, cross to the left (orographic) bank of the Гуамыш river, then follow the trail to the terminal moraine of the Гуамыш glacier. Ascend to the left lateral moraine of the glacier. Here, in a small col between the lateral moraine and the western slope of peak 4470 (п. Бивуачный), is the overnight stop. There is water available.
The time from the base camp 3500 m to the overnight stop is 2–2.5 hours.
From the overnight stop on the moraine of the Гуамыш glacier:
- ascend the talus slope to the plateau;
- follow the right (orographically) lateral moraine of glacier II I (п. Озёрный) to the start of the route.
The start of the route is a wide snowy couloir with rocky outcrops on the left, leading to a col.
Ascent:
- ascend easy rocks to the right to reach peak 4470 (п. Бивуачный). The time from the overnight stop to peak 4470 (п. Бивуачный) is 2–2.5 hours;
- continue along the ridge, descending to the col;
- descend 20 m to the col using sports equipment;
- from the col, traverse the "saw" of loose rocks, which is a series of pinnacles;
- move along ledges, bypassing the pinnacles on the left;
- continue to the col and peak 4600 (п. Тренировочный) via narrow ledges (alternating protection using rock projections);
- from the col, ascend an inclined ledge with flowstone ice, moving up to the right and then left, to a small shoulder (piton protection);
- from the shoulder, ascend a 10 m rock wall directly to a pinnacle;
- continue along ledges, bypassing the pinnacle on the left, to reach peak 4600 (п. Тренировочный).
The time from peak 4470 (п. Бивуачный) to peak 4600 (п. Тренировочный) is 3–3.5 hours.
Descent:
- from peak 4600 (п. Тренировочный), follow the ascent route back to the col (descend to the col using a rappel — 2 ropes);
- from the col, descend a steep snowy couloir with alternating protection to the glacier.
The time from peak 4600 (п. Тренировочный) to the start of the route is 2 hours 30 minutes. The descent to the overnight stop takes 0.5 hours.