Peak Kosmonavtov

The 5800 m summit (4th Western peak of the Fedchenko Glacier) is located in the Marx-Engels Ridge, situated between the Bivachny Glacier and the Fedchenko Glacier opposite the confluence of the Kalinin Glacier and the Bivachny Glacier. From the Bivachny Glacier side:

• The northern slopes of the summit are covered with steep scree in the lower part and are cut by steep couloirs and buttresses in the upper part.
• The western slopes face a vast inner cirque filled with a glacier, whose tongue hangs into a couloir and is visible from the Bivachny Glacier.
• The ice is steep and of an overhanging nature. Between the 5800 m summit and the next peak to the west, there is a snowy saddle in the ridge. The snow layer is thin and lies on ice. The slopes facing the Fedchenko Glacier are very steep and rocky. The western ridge of the summit consists of three rises descending to the saddle. The ridge rocks are heavily destroyed, composed of fibrous rocks. Pitons hold poorly. On the first day, the group, leaving the 3800 m camp, descended along the Bivachny Glacier via a caravan trail for 1 hour to the slopes of the summit and began ascending steep scree towards the inner cirque.

Ascent to the "Malysh" peak via the south-eastern ridge

The "Malysh" peak is the closest peak to the south of the Abdugagor-P pass in the "Academy of Sciences" ridge. The northern slopes of the peak descend directly to the Abdugagor-P pass. The "Malysh" peak encloses from the east the cirque formed by the peaks:

• peak 5660 m
• 5800 m
• "Malysh" peak The ascent was made from the Abdugagor-P pass. The route is snow-ice. The approximate height of the peak is 5400–5500 m.

Day 1

From the base camp, the group's route goes along the left-bank (orographically) moraine of the Abdugagor glacier to the point where the Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers flow into it. Here, the moraine descends and has a convenient exit to the ice. Then the path goes through the tongue of the Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers, which have merged into one, and exits to the left-bank moraine of the Abdugagor glacier, which rises steeply (1 hour). We ascend along the trail to under the icefall of the Abdugagor glacier, where there are flat areas with water (1 hour). After resting on the sites, we pass the icefall in rope teams and with crampons (40 minutes). After passing the icefall, we remove the crampons and move towards the highest point of the pass. This part of the path consists of three calm ascents of medium steepness (15–25°).

Ascent to Peak Sandal (6150 m)

via the northern edge from the Maly Tanymas valley (Central Pamir, Mazarskiye Alps) Expedition of the Odessa Regional Council of the "Avangard" Sports Society Climb leader: Stecenko N.A.

Brief geographical, geological and climatic characteristics of the Mazarskiye Alps region

Communication routes

The Mazarskiye Alps are a group of peaks at the northern end of the Academy of Sciences Range in the Central Pamir. To the east and north, the Mazarskiye Alps are bounded by the valleys of the Sel-Dara and Muk-Su rivers, respectively, and to the south by the glacier and the river of the same name, Maly Tanymas, which flows into the Sel-Dara river, and the tongue of the Fedchenko Glacier. To the west, the Mazarskiye Alps are connected through a significant depression in the ridge with the peaks of the Academy of Sciences Range, the upper reaches of the Maly Tanymas and Ayu-Dzhilga glaciers.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir, Vanchsky Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. 5910 m via the southern wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: total altitude difference — 810 m. wall altitude difference — 610 m. length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 260 m.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: technical
2. Ascent area: Central Pamir, Akademiya Nauk Range.
3. Ascent via the western ridge of Peak 5320 m.
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • elevation gain – 2000 m
   • average steepness – 50°
   • length of complex section – 500 m
5. Pitons used:
   • rock – 18 pcs.

Climbing Record for the Unnamed Peak 5300 m

1. Climbing category — high-altitude and technical.
2. Climbing area — the northernmost of the western spurs of the Vanch Range between Pravyy Dustiroz and Skryty glaciers.
3. The Unnamed Peak is located in the ridge northeast of the 5190 m peak. Estimated height is 5300 m. The route follows the eastern ridge, accessing it via the northern buttress from the Skryty Glacier.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1200 m, length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 205 m, average steepness (excluding the horizontal ridge section) — 45°.
6. Pitons used: rock — 12, ice — 7. Number of climbing hours — 18.
7. Number of nights spent — 1, on the ridge.
8. Team leader — Yuri Vasilenko, 1st sports category.

Ascent Log

1. Zaalaysky Ridge, Pravy Kichkesu glacier, TurkVO area, section 4.4/2008
2. In-Yan Peak (our name), 4935 m, via NW wall.
3. Proposed category: 2A, first ascent.
4. Snow and ice route.
5. Height difference: 400 m. Distance: 600 m. Average slope of the main part of the route: 45°.
6. No equipment left behind.
7. Climbing time: 3 hours.
8. Leader: Koshelenko Yu. — Master of Sports.

Description

First ascent to the summit 5280 m (Peak N. Kuznetsova) The summit 5280 m is located in the northern spur of the Trans-Alay range between the summits:

• to the south — Peak Metallurgov Urala, 5150 m
• to the north — Peak Sverdlova The route begins from the intermediate camp at 3800 m of the Sverdlovsk jubilee expedition. The 3800 m camp is located on an old grassy moraine near a small lake in the upper reaches of the Kок-knik valley. Directly from the 3800 m camp begins:
• a steep fine scree;
• easy, crumbling rocks. On the way, there are several gendarmes with very crumbling rocks of medium difficulty:

1. Ascent Passport

1. Region: Zaalai Range (North Pamir). Gorge: Sauksay Section number according to the 1999 classification table – 4.4
2. Peak name: Lenin Peak. Route name: along the rib of the southern edge of the southeastern wall from the Bolshaya Saukdara Glacier.
3. Proposed – 5B category of difficulty.
4. Route type: snow-ice.
5. Height difference of the route: 1709 m (by altimeter) Route length: 3911 m.

Route Description

From the Myrdı bivouac, ascend the grassy slopes towards the lower part of the eastern ridge of Pyramida. Then turn right onto the large, wide slopes cut by a chain of couloirs and scree, rising towards the terminal moraine of the Pyramida glacier. Reach the glacier via the large, long moraine. Continue straight up towards the clearly visible, rightmost narrow saddle on the Pyramida ridge. The ridge connects to the summit of Ak-bashi to the right. The ascent to the saddle follows a snowy slope with a steepness of up to 40°, then a narrow 100-meter couloir (ice in the second half of summer). From the saddle, descend 50 m to the other side and follow a wide, 400-meter scree shelf that wraps around the base of Pyramida from the west, approaching a large rocky outcrop. Ascend the outcrop upwards and to the left, then move onto inclined shelves above a white quartz vein (protection!). Then bypass the first rocky prominence and move towards the wedge-shaped rock protruding from the second rocky prominence on the ridge. Ascend to the wedge-shaped rock via broken rocks, then follow the inner angle - a couloir (water!) - to reach the upper scree slopes above the wall via a small R6 rock wall. Follow the scree slopes and small ridges to reach the main ridge of the summit at a large, horizontally lying slab. From here, move left and down into a small depression, then ascend to the summit via yellow rocks. 6 hours from the bivouac. Descent from the summit follows the "Pyramida via the Southeast Ridge" route.

• Departure time from the bivouac should be no later than 5 am.
• On the eve of the ascent day, mark the path to the terminal moraine of the Pyramida glacier.