Description

First ascent to the summit 5280 m (Peak N. Kuznetsova)

The summit 5280 m is located in the northern spur of the Trans-Alay range between the summits:

• to the south — Peak Metallurgov Urala, 5150 m
• to the north — Peak Sverdlova

The route begins from the intermediate camp at 3800 m of the Sverdlovsk jubilee expedition. The 3800 m camp is located on an old grassy moraine near a small lake in the upper reaches of the Kок-knik valley.

Directly from the 3800 m camp begins:

• a steep fine scree;
• easy, crumbling rocks.

On the way, there are several gendarmes with very crumbling rocks of medium difficulty:

• The first gendarme is climbed directly;
• The second is bypassed to the right, on the ice, where steps are cut and hook belays are organized;
• The following gendarmes are climbed directly with belays through ledges.

From a height of approximately 4400 m, the movement is on deep wet snow. The slope is quite gentle, but there are separate steep rises. At a height of 4800 m, there is a large hollow, where it is advisable to organize an overnight stay.

From the 4800 m camp, the ascent begins on a snowy exit in the direction of a narrow rocky ridge, which is bypassed on the left. The snow is loose and deep. From the middle of the rocky ridge, the steepness increases sharply to 50–55°. The most steep and dangerous section of the route is the final exit (5–6 ropes). Crumbling shale rocks, covered with ice and shallow snow, greatly hinder movement. Belays are through ice screws and step cutting. The exit to