ROUTE DESCRIPTION to the summit of Chach-khokh, category 2B complexity (height 4107 m) via the eastern ridge, approved on 17/2-67. The summit is located in the watershed ridge (between the basins of the Genal-don and Chach-khi rivers), connecting the Kazbek plateau to the south with the peak Iriston and further to the north with S. and Y. Kaidzhany. The summit has been visited repeatedly by mountaineering groups. All ascents were made from the Chach valley. The route is classified.

Day 1

The group travels by car along the VGD to the village of Gvileti, from where it is no more than 1 hour's walk along a dirt road to the confluence of the Kebati and Chach-khi rivers. After crossing the Kebati River and then the Chach-khi River at their confluence, the group heads along a trail to the right (Chach) valley. The trail winds up the slope and leads to the first "gates" of the Chach valley (a height difference of about 300-400 m). Next, it is necessary to go up to the right. Overcoming the "ram's foreheads of the gates" along one of the shelves that divides them, you should climb up the grassy slope to a group of trees, from which a well-trodden trail begins again. Follow the trail into a wide couloir, cross a stream, after which the trail turns sharply to the right under the rocks. Following along them, it will lead to a shoulder forming the first "gates" of the valley. It takes about 1.5 hours to walk from the confluence of the rivers to the pass point of the first "gates". The "ram's foreheads" must be passed with caution and gymnastic belay.

Description of the route condition to the summit of Shau-khokh (4636 m) via the eastern ridge, category 2B complexity. The nature of the route as of September 2015:

• snow-ice
• rock sections do not present technical difficulties.

Approaches

Get to the village of Verkhniy Koni, register at the border outpost (the summit is located in the border area, to make ascents you need to obtain a permit to enter the border zone in the established form, it's better to do this in advance), then go up to the village of Tmenikau, 2 km further up the gorge — there's a border post, this is the farthest point you can reach by car. From the border post:

• A gentle, wide trail (formerly a geological road) goes up the Genaldon gorge
• The trail leads to the warm mineral springs in front of the tongue of the Maili glacier
• This is where the base camp for ascents to Mt. Kazbek from the north is located
• There are places for tents and water

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent Class — Technical
2. Ascent Region — Central Caucasus
3. Summit — Pik Shestirekh via the South Face
4. Estimated Difficulty Category — 5B
5. Route Characteristics:
   • Elevation Gain — 1100 m
   • Average Steepness — 65°
6. Pitons Driven:
   • Rock Pitons — 95

Report

First ascent of Gaikomd Central peak via South-East wall (through the cave)

Climbing Details

1. Climbing area – 2.9. Caucasus, from the Pereval Kreстовый to the peak Shaviklde
2. Object of ascent – Gaikomd peak, via SE wall (through the cave)
3. Category of difficulty ≈ 5B
4. Character of the route – rock climbing
5. Characteristics of the route: Height difference – 690 m Route length – 1045 m

Ascent Passport (v. Treugolnik via NW ridge)

I. Ascent category — technical. 2. Ascent region — Central Caucasus. Leninsky Komsomol 3. Ascent route — Treugolnik peak (3620 m) via NW ridge, combined. 4. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain 800 m*. 5. Pitons hammered: rock — 6 ice — 0 bolts — 0 6. Duration of ascent — 11–12 hours.

REPORT

on the ascent to Mt. "Dzhailyk" (4533 m) via the Southwest Counterfort of the Western Ridge by the Dzhailyk Alpine Camp team (first ascent) Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich 1983 Alpine Camp "Dzhailyk" 360 000 Nalchik, P.O. Box 47 Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich 141 400 Moscow Region, Khimki, Aptechnaya St., 6, apt. 17 Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich

Ascent Passport

1. Rock class.
2. Caucasus. Digoria, Rocky ridge, section number in KMGV 2.6.
3. Uazakhoh (3529 m), via the Eastern ridge and the Northern wall of the tower.
4. 1B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference of the route 530 m, route length about 1 km. Average steepness of the route 30°.
6. Driven pitons: 2/0; закладок 3/0. Left on the route rock anchors — 2, for descent.
7. Team's walking hours – 6 hours, days – 1.
8. Comfortable overnight stay.

ASCENT PASS

I. Ascent class: technical. 2. Ascent area: from Gezetau Pass to Gurdzautsek Pass. 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Tajmazi Central peak (3700 m) via the northeast counterfort. 4. Estimated difficulty category: 2B category. 5. Route characteristics:

• Height difference: 700 m
• Average steepness: 45°
• Length of sections:
  • R1 — 500 m

68. Maly Kogutai via Western Ridge (Category 1B route) From the “Baksan” alpine camp (group 4 — 20 people), head up the road in the Baksan valley. Before reaching the “Itkol” hotel, turn left and cross the Baksan River on a bridge to reach the narzan springs. From the springs, turn left and cross the Kogutaika River. From there, turn right and ascend a steep trail through the forest along the left bank of the Kogutaika. Above the forest, the trail continues through meadows; then it crosses a stream and ascends along its right bank to a meadow with a large rock split into two parts, mentioned in route 66. Set up a bivouac on the meadow. The journey from the “Baksan” alpine camp takes 2.5–3 hours. The path from the meadow (without backpacks) to the saddle on the Northern ridge of Bolshoy Kogutai is described in route 60. From the initial bivouac on the large meadow, it takes 3 hours. From the saddle:

• descend via scree and a snowy slope to the Bolshoy Kogutai glacier;
• traverse the glacier to the col on the Western ridge of Maly Kogutai peak, which is an extension of the Northeast ridge of Donguzorun peak;
• cross a snow bridge over a bergschrund;
• ascend a short, steep snowy slope to the col on the Western ridge of Maly Kogutai peak. From the saddle, it takes 2–2.5 hours. From the col:
• turn left;

Fig. 19 72. Taymaz East via North-Eastern Ridge (snow and ice route, category 2B, fig. 19). From the Taymazi glade (group of 4–20 people), descend along the trail to the bridge over the Khares River, above the confluence of its right tributary, Tanadon. Cross the Khares River here via the bridge. From the Digoriya CPS:

• Down the gorge to Tanadon.
• From here, ascend along the wide forest trail of the valley along the right bank of Tanadon.