- Maly Kogutai via Western Ridge (Category 1B route)
From the “Baksan” alpine camp (group 4 — 20 people), head up the road in the Baksan valley. Before reaching the “Itkol” hotel, turn left and cross the Baksan River on a bridge to reach the narzan springs. From the springs, turn left and cross the Kogutaika River. From there, turn right and ascend a steep trail through the forest along the left bank of the Kogutaika. Above the forest, the trail continues through meadows; then it crosses a stream and ascends along its right bank to a meadow with a large rock split into two parts, mentioned in route 66. Set up a bivouac on the meadow. The journey from the “Baksan” alpine camp takes 2.5–3 hours.
The path from the meadow (without backpacks) to the saddle on the Northern ridge of Bolshoy Kogutai is described in route 60. From the initial bivouac on the large meadow, it takes 3 hours.
From the saddle:
- descend via scree and a snowy slope to the Bolshoy Kogutai glacier;
- traverse the glacier to the col on the Western ridge of Maly Kogutai peak, which is an extension of the Northeast ridge of Donguzorun peak;
- cross a snow bridge over a bergschrund;
- ascend a short, steep snowy slope to the col on the Western ridge of Maly Kogutai peak. From the saddle, it takes 2–2.5 hours.
From the col:
- turn left;
- ascend 60 meters on the right side of a steep rocky ascent to the Western ridge of Maly Kogutai peak;
- continue along the simple ridge rocks (caution: loose rocks!);
- reach the base of a 90–100-meter rocky summit ascent;
- bypass a 3–4-meter wall in the lower part of the ascent on the left;
- then ascend the corner of the ascent (with protection!) to the summit of Maly Kogutai. From the col, it takes 1.5–2 hours.
The descent follows the ascent route.
The duration of the route is 2 days. “Baksan Valley”, A.F. Naumov