Fig. 19
- Taymaz East via North-Eastern Ridge (snow and ice route, category 2B, fig. 19).
From the Taymazi glade (group of 4–20 people), descend along the trail to the bridge over the Khares River, above the confluence of its right tributary, Tanadon. Cross the Khares River here via the bridge.
From the Digoriya CPS:
- Down the gorge to Tanadon.
- From here, ascend along the wide forest trail of the valley along the right bank of Tanadon.
- After Tanadon bends to the right, above the confluence of the Taymazi River, cross to the left bank of Tanadon via a small bridge.
- Not far from this bridge, cross the Taymazi River via a second small bridge.
- Continue along the left bank of Taymazi to approach the red canyon.
- At the red cliffs (rockfall), ford the Taymazi River and ascend along the rocky right bank to the point where the river diverges into multiple branches.
- Here, 150–200 m before the "sheep's foreheads," ford to the left bank of the river and ascend to the lower platforms near the upper part of the green hill.
From the Taymazi glade:
- To the lower platforms — 2.5–3 hours.
- To the upper platforms at the end of the ridge of the high left-bank moraine of the Eastern Taymaz glacier — 3.5–4 hours. The initial bivouac is located here.
From the upper platforms:
- Ascend along the moraine to the Eastern Taymaz glacier.
- Traverse the glacier upwards.
- Turn left and ascend along the snow-firn slope with rocky outcrops to the left, towards the saddle of the North-Eastern ridge of the Taymaz East summit.
- From the last rocky outcrop, ascend along a steep ice slope to the saddle of the North-Eastern ridge.
Here, turn right and follow the ice-snow North-Eastern ridge with two rocky outcrops; then ascend along a 150–200-meter snow slope to the pre-summit shoulder. From the shoulder, circumvent an ice crevasse on the left, and along a second 150–200-meter ice-snow slope (pitons for belay), ascend to the Taymaz East summit. From the initial bivouac, it takes 5–6 hours.
Descend along the ascent route. The total duration of the route is 2 days.
Source:
- Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoriya, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.