Ascent Log

1. Ascent classification — technical
2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Ayuter gorge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Mt. Mendeleevets, 4200 m, 6B ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4A–3B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — average slope 50°. Section lengths: R2 — 690 m, R3 — 350 m, R4 — 230 m, R5 — 65 m.
6. Pitons hammered for belay:
   • rock — 25
   • ice —
   • bolt —

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent region — Tian Shan, Teskey Ala-Too.
3. Peak, its height and ascent route — 4550 m, via the Southeast ridge.
4. Expected difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 650 m, average steepness — 30–35°. Section lengths: 1st difficulty category — 150–200 m, 2nd difficulty category — 400–450 m, 3rd difficulty category — 600–650 m, 4th difficulty category — 20 m, 5th difficulty category — 5 m.
6. Pitons hammered: for belay — 7 rock, for creating RPE (Rope Protection Equipment) — 3 ice, expansion bolts — none.
7. Number of climbing hours — 5 h 30 min.
8. Number of overnight stays and their duration — none.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification:

ALTUS ZAPADNYI 3090 m via western ridge, cat. dif. ASANOV B.Zh., 2009
prom_alp3@mail.ru 7.11 — Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge

Report

on ascending the western ridge of mt. ALTUS (7.11 — Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge), made by the group of alpinada "SAIRAM — 2009" (opened by Mountaineering Federation of South Kazakhstan region)

Annex 1: ASCENT FILE

1. Ugam ridge, Sairam-Su river valley (7.11)
2. Altus Zapadnyi 3090 m via western ridge X)

REPORT

on the ascent to peak Arsen in the western part of the northern wall (first ascent), category 5B difficulty, of the Sports Committee team of the Kazakh SSR Team members:

• 30/11-77
• Denisenko A.A.
• Vorobyov A.S. Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge 1977 www.alpfederation.ru

Approach to the route

Ascent Passport

N 582 p. 55 dated January 26, 1988 Complexity category 3A. I. Ascent class — rock climbing 2. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Ugam ridge 3. Summit, its height, and ascent route — "Gnom", 3450 m, via South ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class: combined
2. Ascent area: Tian Shan (Ugamsky Ridge)
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: "Druzhba" 4100 m, Central couloir N-3 of the wall
4. Estimated difficulty category: 4A
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference: 620 m
   • average steepness: 43°
   • length of sections: II — 850 m, III — 165 m, IV — 150 m, V — 50 m 6.7 Number of pitons driven:

Ascent Passport

1. Area: Western Tien Shan, Ugam Ridge, 7.11.
2. Peak Name: Druzhba 4100 m, route: via the left part of the S bastion of the 3rd ridge.
3. Difficulty category: presumably 5A, first ascent.
4. Route characteristics: combined.
5. Height difference of the wall section 500 m, route length 1280 m, length of sections: V difficulty category – 185 m, VI difficulty category – 35 m, average steepness of the bastion – 59°, total route – 49°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total – 2, including bolted – 1. Pitons used on the route:

• Rock: 12/2
• Bolted: 1/1

Ascent Passport

Class: ROCKY Region: TIAN-SHAN, Ugam Range (7.II) Peak: ISHIMBAI Height (by group altimeter): 3590 m Route and proposed category of difficulty: From north to eastern ridge (FIRST ASCENT) 2A category of difficulty, combined Height difference: 400 m Length: 970 m, including 400 m - rocks Average steepness: 40° No pitons or закладные элементы were used. NO SIGNS of other groups' presence on the eastern ridge of the ascent object were detected.

Climbing Passport

I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. Climbing area — Tian Shan, Ugam Ridge 3. Peak, its height, climbing route — p. Kergely, 3750 m, northwestern counterfort. 4. Estimated difficulty category — 2B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 450 m, average steepness of the wall section — 55°, total route — 35°, length of sections: 1—..., 2—100 m, 3—345 m, 4—130 m, 5—...

Fig. 57

2. Traverse of Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha (3640 m) with ascent via the north-eastern edge to Perednyaya Chotcha — category 4B difficulty (see Fig. 57)

From the Northern refuge, cross the Hokel river via a log, then follow the trail and scree to the crest of the north-eastern edge of Perednyaya Chotcha. The crest is jagged, with numerous sharp gendarmes that are overcome head-on; the descent from the last two gendarmes to the col is via rappelling (protection on the crest via protrusions and pitons!). The col offers a bivouac site. The journey from the Northern refuge to the col takes 6–7 hours. From the col, ascend 90–100 m up a steep snowfield (65°) to smooth rocks (protection on the snowfield via ice axe, on rock outcrops via pitons!). From the snowfield, traverse left along ledges for 65–70 m to a steep gully, then ascend 60 m up the right side of the gully via moderately difficult rocks (protection!). The gully is prone to rockfall! Continue ascending 110–120 m up steep slab-like rocks (protection via pitons!) to a sloping snow ledge, then traverse 100 m left and upwards to the start of the second pitch of the edge (protection!). From the start of the second pitch, ascend 50 m right and upwards via an inclined crevice, then 40 m via a moderately pronounced chimney to a steep wall (75–80°). Ascend 130 m up the difficult rocks of the steep wall to a horizontal ledge (protection via pitons!). This is a suitable bivouac site. The journey from the col takes 4–5 hours.