SummitX
Route Description
SummitMateSSummitMate
December 2, 2025
0
advancedexpeditionfirst ascentmixed climbingrock techniqueroute assessment
Related to
Route:лев.части С бастиона З гребня

Contents

Ascent Passport

  1. Area: Western Tien Shan, Ugam Ridge, 7.11.
  2. Peak Name: Druzhba 4100 m, route: via the left part of the S bastion of the 3rd ridge.
  3. Difficulty category: presumably 5A, first ascent.
  4. Route characteristics: combined.
  5. Height difference of the wall section 500 m, route length 1280 m, length of sections: V difficulty category – 185 m, VI difficulty category – 35 m, average steepness of the bastion – 59°, total route – 49°.
  6. Pitons left on the route: total – 2, including bolted – 1.

Pitons used on the route:

  • Rock: 12/2
  • Bolted: 1/1
  • Chocks: 79/2
  • Ice screws: 6
  1. Team's total climbing hours: 10 hours.
  2. Climbing pair: Prudskikh A. – Candidate for Master of Sports, Nikitin A. – 1st sports category.
  3. Coach: Benkin V.S. – Master of Sports.
  4. Approach to the route: 9:00 August 5, 2001.

Reached the summit: 19:00 August 5, 2001. Returned to camp: 21:00 August 5, 2001.

General photo of the peak

img-0.jpeg

Date taken – August 5, 2001. Location – glacier in front of Druzhba peak.

    1. Via NW couloir of SW ridge, 4A (M. Galiev, 1987).
    1. Route climbed by the team.
    1. Via S bastion of the 3rd ridge, 5A (Sh. Rafikova, 1987).
    1. Via the "chimney" of S bastion of the 3rd ridge, 5A (F. Pyaček, 1988).
    1. Via W ridge 4A (G. Amal'in, 1987).

Photo of the wall profile from the left

img-1.jpeg

Photo of the wall profile from the right

img-2.jpeg

Route diagram in UIAA symbols M1:2000

  • R1: Rock anchors: 2, Chocks: 3. 3- 100 m 55°.
  • R2: Chocks: 3. 4 35 m 60°.
  • R3: Chocks: 2. 3 20 m 45°.
  • R4: Rock anchors: 3. 4+ 15 m 70°.
  • R5: Rock anchors: 5, Chocks: 2. 6 20 m 85° A2.
  • R6: Chocks: 3. 5 15 m 80°.
  • R7: Rock anchors: 2, Chocks: 3. 5 5 m 75°.
  • R8: Chocks: 1. 3 15 m 0° (Traverse).
  • R9: Chocks: 2. 3+ 20 m 45°.
  • R10: Rock anchors: 1, Chocks: 2. 4 15 m 70°.
  • R11: Rock anchors: 1, Chocks: 3. 4- 15 m 65°.
  • R12: Rock anchors: 1, Chocks: 5. 5 35 m 80°.
  • R13: Rock anchors: 5. 4 25 m 70°.
  • R14: 3- 5 m 35°.
  • R15: 4 10 m 55°.
  • R16–R17: 3+ 5 m 95° A2.
  • R18: Rock anchors: 5. 5 25 m 80°.
  • R19: Rock anchors: 3, Bolted: 1. 5+ 10 m 70° A2 (Traverse).
  • R20: Rock anchors: 2, Chocks: 3. 4- 25 m 45°.
  • R21: Rock anchors: 1, Chocks: 1, Bolted: 1. 6 10 m 85° A2.
  • R22: Chocks: 2. 5 15 m 75°.
  • R23: Chocks: 4. 4- 15 m 65°.
  • R24: Rock anchors: 1. 4 10 m 60°.
  • R25: Rock anchors: 1. 2 10 m 40°.
  • R26: Rock anchors: 1, Chocks: 2. 4- 15 m 65°.
  • R27: Rock anchors: 1, Chocks: 2.
  • R28: Chocks: 2. 2+ 10 m 60°.
  • R29: Chocks: 1. 2 5 m 50°.
  • R30: 2 15 m 35°.
  • R31: Chocks: 3. 2–3 300 m 40°.
  • R32: Rock anchors: 1, Chocks: 6. 5 60 m 80°.
  • R33: Chocks: 4. 5- 20 m 80°.
  • R34: 1 300 m 30°.

Photopanorama of the area

img-3.jpeg

Date taken: August 6, 2001. Location: NE slope of Kergely peak.

Technical photo of the route

img-4.jpeg

Attached files

Sources

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