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First ascent of Jhel-Tegermen peak (4570 m) in Tian Shan by the West couloir and South ridge, cat. 3B.

Pas­port of as­cent to Jel Teger­men peak 4570 m.

  1. Tian-Shan, Cen­tral part of At-Ba­shi range, Bos­kur­bu tract. Ab­sent in clas­si­fi­ca­tor.
  2. Jel Teger­men — 4570 m. Via West­ern couloir and then along South­ern ridge.
  3. Pro­posed 3B cat. dif. First as­cent.
  4. Com­bined route
  5. Height dif­fer­ence — 520 m ac­cord­ing to (GPS). Route length — 800 m. Sec­tions:
  • 2B cat. dif.: 600 m, 40–55 de­grees
  • 4A cat. dif.: 200 m, 40 de­grees
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Description of the ascent route to the summit of Ak-Tash in the Alay mountain range, category 4 difficulty, first climbed in 1962.

Ascent via the North Ridge

The summit of Ak-tash is located in the northwestern spurs of the Alay Range, in the upper reaches of the following glaciers:

  • to the southwest — Dugoba,
  • to the northeast — Ak-Tash,
  • to the northwest — Dugoba-Shigou. The Ak-tash summit massif consists of heavily fragmented granite and limestone rocks.

Day One

From the "Dugoba" alpine camp, we proceed along the Dugoba River valley to the confluence of the Ak-Tash and Ulitor rivers (2 hours). At the confluence, the trail forks; the further path lies along the left orographic bank of the Ak-Tash River, bypassing a pronounced rocky massif on the right. The trail leads to a green meadow; after crossing it, we descend to the Surmetash River, and then, traversing the talus and grassy slopes above the left bank of the Ak-Tash River, we reach a canyon-like steep descent to the river (3–3.5 hours from the confluence).

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Ascent to the summit Krylya Sovetov (4900 m) via the North-Eastern edge, category of difficulty 4B, height difference 800 m, duration of the route is 17 hours.

  1. Class of technically challenging ascents.
  2. Pamir-Alay. Alay Ridge. Archa-Kanysh Gorge.
  3. Krylya-Sovetov Peak (4900 m), via the north-eastern edge.
  4. Estimated difficulty category – 4B.
  5. Route characteristics: a) elevation gain – 800 m; b) length of sections with 4B-5B category difficulty: 280 m; c) average steepness:
    • ascent to the ridge 60°;
    • pre-summit tower 55°.
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Climbing Passport for Peak Leningradets via the North Face, category 5B, in the Pamir-Alay range.

Ascent Log

I. Class: technical 2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alai, Alai Range 3. Ascent route: Leninets Peak via North face 4. Difficulty category: 5B 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain: 1100 m; length of 5-6 difficulty section 925 m; average steepness 60° 6. Pitons used: for belaying, for creating ITO: rock 22, ice 42, chocks 26 7. Climbing hours: 13 8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: none 9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualification:

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Ascent record of the Leningradets peak (5040 m) via the North wall, rated 5B difficulty category, climbed in 1960 by a team consisting of Tarasevich and Okladnikov.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: technical
  2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Alai ridge
  3. Peak, its height: Leningradets, 5040 m, via North wall Ascent route: 5B (validated route)
  4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B category of difficulty
  5. Route characteristics: Height difference 1200 m Average steepness 70° Length of sections:
    • 3–4 category of difficulty — 630 m
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Report by the Ural Military District team on the ascent of Pik Leningradets via the Central Bastion of the North Face in 1980, category 5B difficulty level.

SA and Navy Alpine Championship

— TECHNICAL CLASS —

Report

Ural Military District team's ascent of Pik Leningradets via the Central Bastion of the North Face (rated route 5B cat. difficulty) Kharitonov A.P. — CMS, team leader Zadvoryev Yu.V. — CMS Povolotsky V.Yu. — CMS Tarkhov E.V. — 1st sports rank Team coach MS — Mikhailov A.A. Pamir-Alay

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Ascent certificate for Lenigradets peak (5,040 m) via the North Face, rated 5B difficulty, climbed by a team led by Sergey Tarasovich in 1960.

Ascent Certificate

  1. Ascent classification: technical
  2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge
  3. Peak, its height: Leninградец, 5040 m, via the central part of the north face, ascent route: qualifying route.
  4. Difficulty category: 5B
  5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain 1200 m Average slope: 76°. Length of sections:
    • 3–4 difficulty category – 140 m
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### First Ascent of Peak 4804 via the Northwest Ridge (Category 3B Difficulty) The ascent involves a challenging route with complex terrain, characteristic of high-altitude mountaineering. Key stages include navigating steep ridges, overcoming ice and snow obstacles, and utilizing technical climbing skills. The route's difficulty is categorized as 3B, indicating a significant level of complexity and risk, requiring experienced climbers with appropriate technical skills and physical conditioning.

Passport

First ascent to peak 4804 via the northwest ridge, category 3B difficulty (approximate)

  1. Class — technical
  2. Area of ascent — Pamir-Alay, Surmitash valley, area of "Dugoba" alpine camp
  3. Peak, height, ascent route — peak 4804 m via NW ridge
  4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B
  5. Route characteristics: length of sections by difficulty — category 4 — 80 m, category 3 — 320 m; average steepness — 50°
  6. Pitons hammered for belay:
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Description of the ascent to Peak 6026 m via the Southwest Ridge, made by a group of Uzbek climbers in 1965, with a detailed analysis of the route and recommendations.

Orographic Scheme

The height of Peak 6026 m is indicated on different maps and diagrams as either 6023 or 6026. Peak 6026 m (6023 m)

Description of the Ascent to Peak 6026 m (Mehnat) via the Southwest Ridge

Peak 6026 meters is located in the middle reaches of the Fedchenko Glacier, on its right (orographic) bank, almost opposite the GMS "Lednik Fedchenko". Peak 6026 stands out sharply with its size and clearly surpasses the surrounding peaks in height. From the peak, a snow-ice ridge with rock outcrops descends to the Fedchenko Glacier, which divides into:

  • northern,
  • northwestern,
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The ascent to Peak Burovsky via the Central Bastion of the north wall in 1962, a Category 5B route, with a detailed description of the path and technical characteristics of the sections.

Report on the ascent via the Central Bastion of the northern wall of Peak Burovsky (via the center of the bastion)

List of participants in the assault group

TABLE of the main characteristics of the ascent route to Peak Burovsky via the Central Bastion of the northern wall.

  • Height difference of the route: 1060 m
    • Including the most challenging sections: 410 m
  • Steepness of the route: 80–90°
    • Including the most challenging sections: 80–90° | Date | Section № | Steepness of the section | Height of the section, in m | Terrain characteristics | Technical difficulties | Type of belay | Weather conditions | Departure time | Time of stopping at bivouac | Travel hours | Rock pitons | Ice screws | Bolts | Dural and wooden wedges | Bivouac conditions | Weight of daily ration, in grams |
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