Ai-Petri (Main Peak) via "Feathers" 5A cat.

The wall faces southeast with a 500-meter cliff and is located in the center of the Ai-Petri massif. The route requires:

• vertical pitons
• horizontal pitons
• U-shaped pitons
• ice pitons R0–R1: From the Khosta-Bash clearing, approach the base of Ai-Petri and move along the talus to a large inclined rock shelf 40 m wide and 40–45 m long. The route begins from this shelf. 1–2. Ascend easy rocks to the base of a chimney. For the first 40 meters, the chimney is very narrow, so it is recommended to ascend without a backpack. Organize belays in the widening part of the chimney. The rocks are difficult. The next 40 meters are ascended:
• on tensioned limbs

Report on the First Ascent to the summit of Ai-Petri Eastern via the eastern part of the wall on the route ("Zakonoobrazovatel's") 6A category of complexity by the team from Muhalatka for the period from 20.07.2019 to 20.07.2019.

I. Climbing Report Passport

Merdven-Kayas — 9. "Easy Flirt"* — 385 m, VI, A3+, F6c, E4. Description

August 5, 2013 The route was ascended in a classic style, from bottom to top, without prior reconnaissance or processing from the top. The thread of the "Easy Flirt" route is indicated in white. Massif: Merdven-Kayas. This is one of the few massifs of great length in Crimea where there are still unclimbed main logical lines.

• Route length: 385 m
• Maximum complexity of free climbing sections: F6c, E4
• Maximum complexity of artificial climbing sections: A3(+)

Morcheka — 13

Author: Alexander Lav­ri­nen­ko («Odes­sit»), Odes­sa «Machom­bo» (6А, VI, A3, 335 m) or Morcheka 2002 At the end of January, Volodya Mogi­la and I completed the route through the center of Morcheka that we had started at the end of November. In November, bad weather and various life difficulties hindered our plans, and we were only able to return under the mountain on January 15. The idea of the route underwent changes during the preparation for the ascent:

• The initial plan was to follow the Bodnik route, taking a shortcut through a monolithic, overhanging slab («belly») in its lower part.
• Then we decided to try to straighten out the 2nd rope of the route.
• After completing the 1st rope according to Bodnik, we decided that the route should have its own beginning, and we managed to achieve that too.
• An independent exit to the summit was a natural progression.

Paraghelmen — 7

List of routes to the summit Paraghelmen:

1. Paraghelmen via the right edge of the western part of the massif and the spur 1B, II
2. Paraghelmen via the left spur of the central wall (SW edge) 2A, III, A1
3. Paraghelmen via the center of the wall and SW edge 3B, V, A1
4. Paraghelmen via the right edge of the wall 4B
5. Paraghelmen via the right spur of the central wall (SE edge) 2B variant: Paraghelmen via SE edge and the center of the wall 3B, V

Route 5

Paraghelmen — 3

List of Routes to the Summit of Paraghelmen:

1. Paraghelmen via the right edge of the western part of the massif and the counterfort 1B, II
2. Paraghelmen via the left counterfort of the central wall (SW edge) 2A, III, A1
3. Paraghelmen via the center of the wall and SW edge 3B, V, A1
4. Paraghelmen via the right edge of the wall 4B
5. Paraghelmen via the right counterfort of the central wall (SE edge) 2B variant: Paraghelmen via SE edge and the center of the wall 3B, V

Route 3

Crimea, Paragilmen. "Through the Center of the Wall" Route 4A)

The route goes through the corners of the center of the wall, veering right in the upper third, leading to the "Shovel" summit. The route is significantly more challenging than the classic 3A route. It starts in the same place, but after the first corner, it doesn't go left, instead following the system of internal corners towards the cornice with a white spot underneath. "The Triple through the Chimney" 3A route - passage to the left; "Through the Center of the Wall" 3B (4A) route - passage to the right

Route Description:

0–1. Ascend sloping rocks to the left and enter an internal corner, then continue up the corner to a narrow chimney.

• Bypass the chimney by traversing to the right
• Then ascend
• Return to the left, into the system of corners (It's possible to go straight through the chimney, but it's significantly harder.) Continue up the corner to a ledge with a belay station. There are bolts and pitons. 43 m IV (10 m V)

Sokol – 12 y.o.

Ryжий угол (Red corner) 5A cat. diff. #26

R0–R2: 100 m, simple climbing straight up to the right (start as in "Galochka" mt.). R2–R3: 35 m, 5b+. Dangerous rope due to crumbling rock. Belay is relative. Station on a micro-shelf in the corner on a piton and a new bolt. R3–R4: 35 m, 6a+, A2. Difficult, overhanging rope. Protection on pitons and some own (big cams). In the upper part, loose rocks, be careful. Better to move left to a crack. Station on a ledge on bolts. R4–R5: 50 m, 5c. Hard climbing on quite crumbling terrain. Protection is difficult. Station on a half-lying tree on a ledge. R5–R6: 35 m. Easy traverse rightwards along the ledge towards "Galochka". Station on a tree. Then you can go in two ways:

• left through a "gully", towards "Grebnevaya dvojka" and then along it;
• continue rightwards along the ledge till the junction with "Galochka" route.

Equipment:

Rope 50–60 m, nuts, cams (big sizes mandatory), extenders, 1–3 ladders, 14–16 quickdraws, hammer, pitons.

General impressions:

Difficult 5A, requiring the ability to realistically assess the situation and organize belay properly. The skill level of "Pravyj Romb" (Right Rhombus) may be insufficient for this route. Climbing time for an average team is 5–6 hours

Sokol — 25

Bodun 5Б difficulty category (A. Sergeev, also known as "Kommunist") Bodun 1st rope R0–R1: 25–30 m, 6c, A2+. Even, interesting slabby artificial terrain with some 5c–6c climbing sections. The first few meters have a risk of falling onto the belayer from a considerable height. After the second bolt (third one), traverse right to a poorly visible piton, then go up, aiming for the left part of the cornice. The belay station is on two bolts. R1–R2: 25 — 30 m, 5B, A0. Re-clip through bolts and pitons up into the left corner of the cornice, then traverse right and up with your own protection. The belay station is on two bolts and a piton. R2–R3: 35 m, 5B. Up the overgrown crack, then move left across the slab 3–5 m to an internal corner. Protection is your own + bolts and pitons. The belay station is in the internal corner on two bolts and a piton. R3–R4: 50 m, 5B. Protection is on bolts and pitons + your own. The belay station is on a bolt and a piton in the internal corner. R4–R5: 30–35 m, 6A. The belay station is in the internal corner under an overhanging wall. R5–R6: 25 m, 6C.

• Through the overhang (two bolts)

On the right side of the «green corner», 5a (route by V. Timofeev, 1981)

The western part of the massif and the most complex southeastern wall are separated by a large internal corner, descending from the summit plateau and named Green due to the moss covering it. The route starts at the base of the couloir descending from the Green internal corner. From the alpinist camps, proceed about 150 m towards Baydarskie Vorota until the beginning of the ascent to the Green corner. From the road, start moving up the scree towards the steep wall (R0: 100 m, 30°, easy). On the section R1–R2 — overcome a small wall, move right along the ledge to the large internal corner, turning into a sheer chimney on the left side of the slab. Up the slab to the top of the outcrop: